Dvarw RTA DL from KHW Mods in Hungary

Discussion in 'HE - High End Gear' started by Rob Fisher, 12/2/18.

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  1. Silver

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    Am very pleased today.

    My Dvarw made it overnight and today without any signs of leaking. It's behaving nicely.

    But I've learnt not to count my chickens.

    It needs to get through a few tankfuls without a leak before knowing it's sorted.

    All I did last night was change the one o ring at the base of the chimney part. The 2.5mm ID coil is still in.

    So far so good....

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. CaliGuy

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    Holding thumbs @Silver. Still struggling to wrap my mind around a leaking Dvarw, it’s just something that they don’t do, like ever in my experience unless someone left the chimney cap off “Never Forget” :-D
     
  3. Shakez

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    I have tried a different method to the Exocet wicking method and absolutely no leaking at all. My cotton sits against the wicking holes on the inside of the chimney but don't protrude at all. I cut it just long enough to cover the holes. No leaking overnight, no leaking if i sit the tank on its side, and wicks perfectly. Will rewick today and try take some clear pics.
     
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  4. CaliGuy

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    Agree with you @Shakez that as long as the wick ports have cotton covering or against it the Dvarw won’t leak. I use the Exocet method but also use the more common MTL Chamber wicking method of placing the cotton inside the chamber filling each half of the chamber with cotton.

    Find this later method condenses the chamber further restricting and intensiving the vapor somewhat and the real positive trade of this more cotton approach is a wetter saturated vape. Works in the DL and MTL and it is the only way to wick a Dvarw 16 due to the tiny build deck.

    Exocet Method
    CEBE14CD-F412-43D8-B380-EA5AEC412D76.jpeg

    Chamber Wick Method
    30B00DBC-31FC-499F-BB52-90AF3EDF78E9.jpeg
     
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  5. Shakez

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    dvarw 2.jpg dvarw 4.jpg dvarw 3.jpg
     
  6. Silver

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    Thanks @CaliGuy and @Shakez

    By "Exocet" method I assume that means one pulls the wicks through the juice slots then cut it off from outside?

    Anyhow, that's how I do it - I havent tried this internal method yet - but thanks for sharing that. Looks interesting.

    What wicking material are you guys using? And what coil iD?

    My problem I think comes from being on the "edge" in terms of just enough wick to fill the juice slots. And sometimes when I refill I can see that there is a little gap - for juice to presumably ooze out.

    I am using Royal Wicks and a 2.5mm ID.

    When I rewick, one side is always a bit fluffier and thicker than the other side - depending on which side goes into the coil first. You will know what I mean. Anyway, the thinner side sometimes struggles to fill the relatively wide juice slot. I know the wick expands when its wet but maybe mine doesnt fill it properly.

    Maybe I should also try using a fluffier wicking material if such a thing exists?

    Anyhow, so far so good on my Dvarw since I replaced the o-ring. Maybe it was that. But I looked carefully at the o-ring I took out and I couldnt see damage to it. Then again my eyesight is not the best anymore. Lol.
     
  7. CaliGuy

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    @Silver I use a 3mm ID coil, Coilology Fused Clapton or their Framed Stapled Clapton in the Dvarw DL.

    I think give the 3mm coil a go as you will need to use more cotton which should help solve your wicking problem.

    To put it into perspective on Dvarw MTL I use a 2.5mm coil which is just enough cotton to go through the larger oval shaped juice ports on the chimney cap using the Exocet method but I push the cotton back into the chimney slightly. Never leaks.
     
  8. Silver

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    Thanks @CaliGuy
    I think I will try 3mm ID when I change the coil
    But so far its working nicely and I am happy. Hope it lasts