Intro to Vaping + The Subox Mini

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  1. free3dom

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    Welcome all new vapers! What a wonderful time to start vaping :)

    In this post I will attempt to give as much useful information as I can for a new vaper deciding what device(s) to get when starting out of this wonderful journey.

    This may be a bit long-winded, so feel free to skip to the end for a definitive recommendation (the TL;DR part) ;)

    When starting out it can be very daunting to choose which device to get - the choices seem endless and the descriptions may sound quite outlandish.

    For the longest time, it has been quite challenging to recommend a good starting device for new vapers. Most of what was available was either underpowered or a combination of things (which makes shopping more difficult than it should be for a new vaper).

    Previously, my standard recommendations were one of the following:
    KangerTech Evod Kit - this is a cheap dual device kit that is very well priced and is usually a good way to "test the vaping waters". The problem with it is that it needs replacing very soon to keep up with the new vapers needs (most will need an upgrade within the first month or two). When looking at it like that, it's cost really isn't that cheap after all.
    iStick + Aspire Nautilus Mini - this is a two part set (sold separately) which has for a long time been the "best" way to get going with vaping. But even with this "kit" many vapers needed an upgrade after a while - either when the device no longer satisfied them or when they wanted to get into more advanced vaping.

    This has now changed dramatically, as there is finally a all-in-one kit which can satisfy a beginning vaper, and grow with them as their needs change. Most vapers would not need to upgrade from this kit for a very long time (some may never need to). This kit is called the KangerTech Subox Mini (of which I will do a full review with instructions and usage tips in one of the posts below). By the time you read this it should be available from most of the local vendors and it comes in black/white.

    --------------------------------------------------

    In order to fully illustrate the amazing value of this kit (and justify the recommendation) I will first need to describe some vaping terms and concepts to you (these are covered in many places on here, but I thought I'd add them again for an all-in-one post).

    E-liquid (Juice) & Nicotine Concentration
    E-liquid is the liquid which (usually) contains nicotine. These liquids come in a wide variety of flavours to cater to everyone's tastes. This is such an involved field and very important to your vaping journey so I suggest trying out lots of different juices and reading many reviews :)

    Like cigarettes, e-liquids come in various concentrations of nicotine, with 18mg being the strongest commonly available one and 1.5mg the lowest. Juices without any nicotine (0mg) are also available, and are suitable for non-smokers who vape.

    Mouth-To-Lung (MTL for short)
    This refers to the type of vaping where you draw vapour into your mouth before inhaling it into your lungs - similar to how most people smoke cigarettes.

    When you first start vaping, (most) of our lungs are in a bad state (the severity depends on the duration/intensity of smoking). And because vapour is so very different from smoke, initially your lungs will be a bit sensitive to it. For this reason it is highly advised that new vapers start out with MTL vaping. You also need to limit the amount of vapour going into your lungs or you may cough quite a bit as your lungs acclimate to the new "stuff" coming in - some coughing is natural but keeping the vapour volume down eases this transition quite a bit.

    Because of the reduced volume of vapour intake, an e-liquid (juice) with a higher concentration of nicotine (around 12 to 18mg) is advised when starting out.

    Throat Hit
    This refers to the feeling you get in the back of your throat when inhaling vapour - it is very similar to the burning sensation you get when inhaling cigarette smoke, but much less harsh and more pleasant.

    Many new (and even seasoned) vapers crave this hit as they "feel" like they are inhaling something. Without it, a new vapor may crave smoking a cigarette to get that sensation. In other words, for some it is crucial to giving up smoking completely.

    Higher nicotine generally provides a more pronounced throat hit (as do some other factors, but I'll keep it simple for now).

    Lung Hitting
    Many (but not all) seasoned vapers eventually move on from MTL vaping by drawing vapour directly into their lungs (in much higher volumes than with MTL). This is usually what people are doing when you see larger billowing clouds coming out of them ;)

    Because of the larger volume of vapour, these vapers generally use e-liquids with a much lower concentration of nicotine (around 1.5 to 6mg).

    Coils & Wicks
    Coils are heating elements which heat up e-liquid and turns it into vapour which is then inhaled - note that no combustion occurs as with smoking. There are multiple types of metal used for making coils, with Kanthal (and more recently Nickel and Titanium) being the most popular.

    Wicks are the parts that carry the liquid from a container to the coil so that it can be vapourised. There are various materials used, but generally it is some form of cotton or silica.

    For new vapers, a commercial coil is recommended, which is an all-in-one unit with the actual coil and wick installed inside a casing that can be easily replaced. Each of these commercial coils only have a limited life, at which point they should be replaced to ensure you are getting the best vape (and nicotine delivery) you can. More on these later.

    Atomizer & Mod (Battery)
    Atomizers are the parts of vaping devices which houses the coil, the wick, and the liquid. There are quite a few variations available, from ones that take commercial coils (as mentioned above), to advanced devices which allow you to create your own coils and change wicks as needed (see "rebuilding" below).

    There are two main types of atomizers: Tanks (Clearomizers/RTAs) and Drippers (RDAs) - more on these later.
    Older style atomizers which use commercial coils only are know as clearomizers.

    Mods (the battery + screen + buttons) are what provides power to the coil in order to heat it up. These come in a wide variety, each with many different settings you can use to customize your vaping experience.

    Power (Watts)
    Mods are rated based on the amount of power they can provide to the atomizer. Beginning vapers generally vape at around 10-20W of power. Intermediate vaping is generally done around 20-50W. Advanced vapers can go up to 150-200W (but this is very specialized).

    There are other forms of power, which involve reading the temperature of the coil (called temp sensing) but these are well beyond the scope of this intro.

    Batteries
    Some mods contain built-in batteries (with internal chargers), and others use loose cells that you can take out and charge in external devices. With replaceable battery units you can also carry more than one charged battery around and just swap it out when the current cell is depleted - this means you are never without your vape.

    The most common batteries used for vaping devices are high discharge IMR cells of the 18650 (refers to their size) variety. These are commonly available and come in various quality levels, usually sacrificing one feature for another (such as less battery life, for more current draw). This is a very important field, but beyond the scope of this introduction - please research this (or ask questions), get good batteries, and use them safely.

    Edit: I added a section on battery safety at the end of this post. Please take the time to read through it as this is a very important aspect of vaping safely :)

    Rebuilding (RBA, RDA, RTA)
    When vapers use the term "rebuilding" they are referring to creating their own coils and wicking them. Because commercial coils can be expensive to replace and are generally of the "one size fits all" variety, many vapers eventually turn to building their own coils to suit their personal preferences. Not only is this very cost effective, it is also quite fun and rewarding. There are many concepts involved in rebuilding (none of which are too complicated) but they are again a bit out of scope here. There is lots of information available and I will cover a bit of it in the Subox review.

    The atomizers used for rebuilding are as follows:
    RBA = ReBuildable Atomizer (this is a group name referring to all rebuildable atomizers)
    RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (these store liquid in a tank, which is fed to the coil as you vape - similar to clearomizers, but unlike those you build your own coils and wicks with these tanks).
    RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer (this group of atomizers holds no liquid - the liquid is dripped directly onto the wick every now and then to keep it saturated).

    --------------------------------------------------

    There are various other concepts, and interesting things to discover, but these basics should suffice for now.

    This brings us back to the recommended device: The KangerTech Subox Mini.

    The reason this device is so amazing is that, in a single package, you have most of the above methods of vaping (and their benefits) available to you - without spending any more money (or at least very little for the consumable wire/wick).

    All you need is the kit and one 18650 battery (2500/2800mAh recommended). At a later stage you can buy some more batteries and an external charger to make it even easier to use (but this is NOT a requirement at all).

    So let me do a quick rundown of what you can do with this device (the short-short version):
    • It takes an single 18650 battery which can be easily swapped out when depleted. The mod has a built in charger (micro USB) so you don't need an external charger. You can also vape on it while it is charging (a feature called pass-through).
    • The mod provides 50 Watts of power - this allows you to start off nice and easy but leaves enough headroom to grow your vaping over time.
    • Using the included 1.5 Ohm coil and the smallest airflow setting you get the best mouth-to-lung experience currently available. Paired with some 12/18mg juice this is the perfect configuration when starting out.
    • Once you feel the need for something more (or just different) - replace with the 0.5 Ohm coil and use one of the two larger airflow settings for satisfying lung hits. Paired with some 6/12mg juice this will give you some proper kick when needed.
    • Once you feel like getting into rebuilding, simply install the RBA Base, (effectively switching the device from a clearomizer to an RTA) and you are making your own coils at a fraction of the cost of buying new coils. Your own coils can be built based on your preferred vaping style (which means you can choose what resistance to use and that can have a massive impact on how the vape is experienced).
    All of this comes in at around R1000 to R1200 (with a battery) - many vendors will be bundling the device with a battery for a good deal too, so look out for these.

    To put this into perspective, I started out about 11 months ago and spent about R1500 on devices which lasted me about 3 weeks before I had to upgrade to get the satisfaction I needed.

    Pair this with any 12/18mg juice and I can all but guarantee you will be vaping up a storm and forgetting all about your cigarettes in no time :rock:

    And this concludes part 1 :D

    In part 2 (below) I will go into a bit more detail on how to use your new Subox Mini (from beginner to advanced)...stay tuned ;)

    Before we get to that...
    I would like to say a big thank you to @KieranD from Vape Cartel for getting this device to me early so that I was able to get this done before the bulk of these devices arrive - the pricing was amazing and I really appreciate the effort. If you are looking to get one, their next shipment is inbound and they have amazing other vape gear and juices as well :)

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------
    Battery Safety (don't go "boom")

    Because this is very important, I felt that I had to at least mention some more on battery safety as this device can push the limits of some batteries. This might be a bit confusing and I'll try not to get too technical :)

    Batteries are rated in duration (the mAh value) which indicates how much power it can store and how long it can be used for before requiring a recharge. The other (and often overlooked by new vapers) value is the current draw (the A value, which stands for Ampere and indicates the flow rate of electric charge). Previously I mentioned high discharge, which refers to a battery with a high A rating. Unfortunately there are two sub-types of rating when it comes to current draw, pulse and continuous discharge. The pulse discharge (also called maximum discharge) rating refers to the Amp limit "in short bursts" (a second or two at a time) while the continuous discharge rating refers to the Amp limit for "an extended duration". When used for vaping, where you will frequently be applying power to the coil for longer than 1-2 seconds, the continuous discharge rate is obviously the one we are interested in.

    Unfortunately most battery manufacturers don't list the continuous value - choosing instead to list the larger pulse discharge rate. For example, the 2500 Efest batteries have a 35A rating printed on the label - this is the pulse rating - but independent testing places their continuous discharge rate at around 20A. The bottom line to all of this is to buy recommended batteries only and always err on the side of caution - if you don't know if it's safe then rather ask someone first.

    For those that are interested in the technical side I will quickly illustrate the limits of this device. This involves using Ohm's Law to calculate the Amp Draw based on the settings of the device. You can use a Ohm's Law Calculator to find these values based on your current settings (simply enter your settings and see what the "current" value is.

    Assuming you push this device to it's maximum limits (using a 0.3 Ohm coil in the RBA and firing at 50W of power) the current draw will be 12.91 Amps. At 0.5 Ohm and 50W it will be 10 Amps.

    Now you always want to leave a bit of space between your actual current draw and what the battery can safely handle. This device at it's peak will be well within the limits of an 2500/2800mAh Efest, Samsung 25R, or LG HE4 battery (all of which are rated at above 20A continuous discharge).

    The Efest 3100mAh batteries however should only be used with the 1.5 Ohm coils as they are only rated for 10A continuous discharge (leaving no margin when used with a 0.5 Ohm coil at 30W). With the 1.5 Ohm coil at 30W (more the maximum recommended power for it) you will only be drawing 4.5A of power, so it will be quite safe to use.

    Sorry for the long and technical bit, but battery safety is really important as it's the one part of vaping that can actually cause you direct physical harm if not paid attention too. Also, don't let this scare you off, vaping is very safe as long as you do it responsible - so it's the same as everything else in life ;)

    Also, go read this thread for some really great battery safety tips :)

    Thanks to @nemo who sent me a link to a site which contains a table of battery ratings which can be very useful when deciding to buy a battery - find it here (scroll down for the table, and note that what I called "pulse discharge" above is labeled as "maximum discharge" in the table - they are the same thing)
     
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    Last edited: 24/6/15
  2. free3dom

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    free3dom Vaping Addict

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    Say hello to my little subox ;)

    Alright, so you've followed my advice and got yourself a Subox Mini kit...now what? o_O

    In this post I will go through the basics of this kit and how to get it set-up and vaping in no time :)
    For those who have still not gotten the kit, this will also serve as a basic review of the kit :D
    Click on any of the pictures for a larger view.

    The Kit

    This is the box :D
    a1 - IMG_5217.JPG

    Opening it up, this is what you'll find - mod on the left, tank on the right.
    a2 - IMG_5220.JPG
    a3 - IMG_5221.JPG

    The top part comes out, and this is what you'll find underneath - charge cable, 1.5 Ohm coil, RBA base, some cotton (for wicking the RBA base), a spare coil for the RBA, as well as some spare screws for the RBA base.
    a5 - IMG_5223.JPG

    All of the contents, with some parts disassembled ;)
    a4 - IMG_5222.JPG

    Getting to know the Mod (the part that gives power)

    Here is a look at the mod from each side (the back side houses the battery, which we'll get to below).
    b01 - IMG_5231.JPG b02 - IMG_5232.JPG b03 - IMG_5233.JPG

    The top of the mod is where the tank (atomizer) screws in - this sounds a bit condescending, but I'm really only trying to be thorough :) This type of connector is called a 510 and is fairly standard, meaning you can later attach other tanks to this mod if you want - and vice versa, the included tank works on other mods as well.
    b04 - IMG_5234.JPG

    On the back of the mod is a little door that is held in place by magnets. There is a notch on the bottom where you can easily pull it off.
    b05 - IMG_5235.JPG

    The battery (more on this below) is inserted with the positive side facing down. To fit it, insert the negative (flattest) side first and push up while pushing the other end towards the mod.
    b06 - IMG_5236.JPG b07 - IMG_5237.JPG

    Once the battery is inserted, the screen should come on by itself - if it does not, 5 clicks of the fire button (the big one) turns the device on (and off again if needed). The screen shows all the relevant information (which I'll get to later). Another very useful feature of the device is that the orientation of the screen can be flipped - to do this, simply hold both of the small buttons down until the screen flips.
    b08 - IMG_5240.JPG b09 - IMG_5241.JPG

    The device takes flat top 18650 batteries, and I highly recommend the one below (Efest 2800mAh 35A). But there are many alternatives available (Efest 2500mAh, Samsung 25R, LG HE4), just make sure that they are from a reputable vendor, and when in doubt ask on here before buying.
    c1 - IMG_5224.JPG

    Some 18650 batteries come with button tops (pictured on the right below) - these will NOT fit in the mod. It shouldn't be a problem as most batteries available now are flat tops, but just make sure before buying.
    c2 - IMG_5228.JPG

    The Atomizer (the part that makes the vapour, and holds the e-liquid)

    When you unscrew the base (by holding onto it and turning the top part counter-clockwise) you will find a coil installed in it - out of the box, this is the 0.5 Ohm coil. As a new vaper I'd recommend unscrewing that and placing it in the box for later use. This is what you'll be left with, so let's examine the base quickly.

    For users of the older Subtank Mini, I thought I'd share this image for comparison. Notice how the base is no longer completely hollow - there is a sort of chimney down there with slots for airflow. This should cut down on leaking out of the airholes even if some juice gets in there.
    d01 - IMG_5245.JPG

    The base comes with 3 different airflow settings - which determines (to some extent) the amount of vapour generated when using. Here they are pictured from largest to smallest. For new vapers I'd recommend the smallest setting to start with (but you are free to switch between them as you like while vaping).
    d02 - IMG_5246.JPG
    d03 - IMG_5247.JPG d04 - IMG_5248.JPG

    Next, take out the 1.5 Ohm coil from the box. Here it is for those interested in seeing how it differs from the older type coils - notice how narrow the airflow gap is from the top.
    d05 - IMG_5249.JPG d06 - IMG_5250.JPG d07 - IMG_5251.JPG

    Now screw the 1.5 Ohm coil into the base as follows.
    d08 - IMG_5254.JPG d09 - IMG_5256.JPG

    A bit more of a breakdown, here is the base, and tanks disassembled. Notice how the glass is a separate piece that can be removed (for cleaning) or replaced if it is damaged.
    d10 - IMG_5257.JPG

    To remove/replace the glass make sure your hands and the tank is dry and hold onto the black part of the tank and pull slowly upwards on the glass part (be gentle as it can break when using too much force. Notice how the o-rings (red in the pictures) help the glass seal to keep the juice in. When the tank is off you can rinse it under tap water to clean it. Replacing it is done the same way just push down (gently) towards the black part.
    d12 - IMG_5260.JPG d13 - IMG_5261.JPG

    Looking down into the tank, this is the area where the juice will go - around the sides of the middle part (which is where the vapour flows through into your mouth). I'll showing filling at the end - because taking pictures I wanted to wait until the end so I didn't have to clean every time.
    d14 - IMG_5262.JPG

    This is the bottom of the tank. The pin you see is what makes contact with bottom of the 510 connector on the top of the mod (as pictured earlier). Notice the insulation around it - this is because the positive power flows through the pin, and the negative power through the screw, and these can not make contact.
    d15 - IMG_5264.JPG

    (I will continue in the next post, as I've reached the max image limit per post :rolleyes:)
     
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    Last edited: 21/6/15
  3. free3dom

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    free3dom Vaping Addict

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    ...and on and on we go :)

    The top part of the tank is called a 510 "drip tip". These are a standard as well and you can buy a wide variety of styles and looks which are interchangeable. To remove/replace it (for cleaning or replacement) simply pull on it and push it back in when done (there is an o-ring around the bottom which ensure a tight fit.
    d17 - IMG_5266.JPG

    Now before you start using a new coil - every time you replace the coil - you need to "prime" it. This simply means getting some juice in there so that when the coil heats up there is something to vapourize. Failure to do so can ruin your coil by causing what we refer to as a "dry hit" - basically you are burning the cotton wick and inhaling smoke in this case, so it's something to avoid. The same thing happens when your tank runs out of juice, so make sure to fill it up when the juice level falls below the wicking holes of the coil (shown earlier). To prime the coil, hold it at around a 45 degree angle and drip a drop or two of e-liquid (not too much) into the coil - flip it to each of the 4 sides and repeat, just to be safe.
    d19 - IMG_5269.JPG

    Now you can fill up your tank and screw the base onto it (again, I'll show filling at the end). And this is what it will look like (except there will be juice in there) :)
    d21 - IMG_5271.JPG

    Now simply line up the bottom of the tank with the hole on the mod and screw it down (turn the tank clockwise). Turn it all the way down, but don't overdo it as that can make it difficult to remove again later on. And now (very important) wait for about a minute or two before you start vaping with the tank upright as pictured below - this allows the juice to saturate the wick in the coil (again to prevent a dry hit and ruin your brand new coil). You should do this every time you replace the coil!
    d22 - IMG_5273.JPG d23 - IMG_5274.JPG

    While you are waiting, let's have a quick look at operating the mod, and the information presented on the screen. As mentioned earlier, the big button is the fire button - you'll hold this down while you are drawing air through the top of the tank (for the entire duration as vaporization stops when you let go of the button). The two smaller buttons (they have + and - symbols indented on them) are for adjusting power. Power determines how warm the coil will get and hence how warm the vapour you inhale will be. However, the coils have limits to how much power you can apply without causing the dreaded dry hit. These are printed on a piece of paper included in the box, and also varies based on the thickness of the juice you use (indicates as the VG ratio of the juice). Follow these guides to prevent getting dry hits.

    So with the 1.5 Ohm coil you have installed I'd recommend anywhere between 10W and 20W (if you are unsure, start low and increase until you find a setting you like). Push (and hold) one of the little buttons (+/-) until you reach your desired power setting.

    The other info you'll notice on the screen is the battery indicator on the left - which (surprise, surprise) shows how much battery power you have left. When the power runs out this light will flash and you will need to replace the battery to carry on vaping.

    The 1.6 Ohm value at the bottom is the resistance of the installed coil (we are using the 1.5 Ohm coil, a 0.1 variance is totally acceptable). Don't worry too much about this value, but note that if there is some problem with either the coil or the connection between the tank and the mod, this number will turn to 9.99 Ohm and will flash. In this case you may need to replace the coil, or make sure that the tank is screwed on properly.

    The 0.0V value at the top is the amount of voltage being applied. This value changes when you push the fire button and is just an indicator of the value calculated and used by the device based on your set power level. You can read up on Ohm's Law if you are interested, but for now simply know it is there.
    d24 - IMG_5276.JPG

    The mod has a range of 7W to 50W (as pictured below).
    d25 - IMG_5277.JPG d26 - IMG_5279.JPG

    Rebuilding and the RBA Base

    This section is intended for "later use" when you reach the level where you want to start experimenting with making your own coils. However, the RBA base already comes with a coil (0.5 Ohm) installed it only needs to be wicked. So here I will show this just for interest sake and for those who are upgrading to this for this purpose specifically.

    KangerTech has completely redesigned the RBA base and I can now safely say that when set-up correctly it wicks any type of juice (including max VG) perfectly without any dry hits at high power and while chain vaping.

    Here it is in all it's glory. Notice how the cap is no longer threaded, and the little screw you see is used to keep it in place. The large visible hole now replaces the juice channels and works very similar to the commercial coils.
    e01 - IMG_5280.JPG

    Unscrewing the screw by a little bit allows the top section to come off, and this is what it looks like. Notice the notch in the cap, which should be aligned with the screw when placing it back on.
    e02 - IMG_5281.JPG

    This is the factory installed 0.5 Ohm coil, and it has seen some vaping already :D It should look a lot neater when you open your own RBA base.
    e03 - IMG_5282.JPG e04 - IMG_5283.JPG

    When you want to use this RBA base for the first time, all you need to do is wick it. There is some Japanese cotton included in the box, so you already have everything you need. To get started cut a section off the pad (in the long direction) about 1.5 the width of the coil. Unfortunately I didn't measure mine, but it's quite forgiving and you can just approximate it. Next pull the thin top/bottom layers off the strip (the left/right bits in the image below) which leave a soft and fluffy strip (the right bit below) to work with.
    e06 - IMG_5287.JPG

    Now take the strip and roll one end into a small tip (small and long enough to fit through the coil). Then stick it through the coil and pull it through - make sure it goes through tightly, but not too tight as it may bend the coil. If it is too tight, remove the strip and cut a small sliver off then try again. If it is too loose, cut a wider piece. Initially this will take some experimentation, but it soon becomes second nature.
    e07 - IMG_5288.JPG

    Once you have the wick through, pull it until there is roughly the amount pictured below on one side, and then cut off the excess on the other side to match. It should look about like the image below.
    e08 - IMG_5290.JPG

    Now you need to put the top cap back on (make sure to align the notch with the screw) by lifting the wick ends up while sliding the cap down over them. You should end up with something as pictured below. Once this is done, make sure to fasten the screw at the base of the top cap again - it doesn't have to be tight, just not in the way.
    e09 - IMG_5291.JPG

    Finally, take a small screwdriver (flat head recommended) and gently push the wick tails down into the top cap. It should look something like below. The nice thing about this new RBA is that it is very forgiving with wicking.
    e10 - IMG_5292.JPG

    Make sure that the cotton completely covers the wicking holes on both sides of the top cap.
    e11 - IMG_5293.JPG e12 - IMG_5294.JPG

    At this point, you should take some juice and prime the wick by dripping some juice onto the cotton - get it nice and saturated, but don't overdo it (I didn't take a picture, but it's as simple as applying juice to cotton).

    The just screw the top part back onto the cap, and your RBA is ready to go.
    e13 - IMG_5295.JPG

    Basically now the RBA is exactly the same as a commercial coil :D
    e14 - IMG_5296.JPG

    Just screw it into the base, and screw the tank onto the base - after filling...it's coming, I promise! :rolleyes:
    e15 - IMG_5297.JPG e16 - IMG_5298.JPG

    Filling the SubTank with E-liquid (finally!)

    One of the main reasons I really love the atomizer included in this kit (and the SubTanks that came before it) is how easy it is to fill with e-liquid.

    So here's what you do. Turn the tank upside down, with the drip tip facing down - you can even remove the drip tip and make it stand on it's head which is very stable and makes it a hands-free operation. Now take your favourite e-liquid (I've used some Pink Lady from The E-liquid Project range) and drip the juice into the tank (avoiding the middle section). For maximum capacity fill it up to about 1-2mm below the top of that middle section - as seen in the image below.

    e17 - IMG_5299.JPG

    Now take your base, with coil or RBA installed and turn it over and screw it into the tank while leaving the whole thing upside down. Once it is screwed in turn it over and screw it onto your mod. Leave it for a minute or two (with the RBA you can skip this if you primed the wick enough) and then vape it!

    e18 - IMG_5302.JPG e19 - IMG_5303.JPG

    A Nice Touch from KangerTech

    Inside the box you will find this little strip with some stickers. The reason for these are not immediately obvious, so let me explain it quickly.
    f1 - IMG_5304.JPG

    As can be seen in the image below, the "K" logo on the battery door is a cutout - it is there for venting reasons, and also to look nice. So depending on the battery you use (I've used a black re-wrapped battery) the color will be visible through this hole. These stickers can be placed on your batteries so that the part showing through the hole matches the rest of the device's color highlights (red on the black model and black on the white model). This is completely unneeded, but an really nice touch - kudos to KangerTech for going the extra mile.
    f2 - IMG_5305.JPG f3 - IMG_5306.JPG

    And that is that, hopefully this has provided enough information to get you going with your brand new (and awesome) device.

    Enjoy the vaping :D
     
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    Last edited: 21/6/15
  4. Sir Vape

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  5. Twisper

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    Twisper Experienced Vaper...

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    What I would have given to get such great information like this when I started out...all in one write up.

    Hope all the new guys take this advise to heart...
     
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  6. DarkSide

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    @free3dom THANK YOU for the amazing information, answered all my questions and have already printed your post for ease of reference, I can only concur with @Twisper, wise words indeed.
    Regards
     
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  7. DarkSide

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    I was going to purchase another sub tank mini but rather make this purchase, just that no-one in Cape Town seems to have stock, quite upsetting because I WANT ONE NOW, cannot wait any longer on a wishist (just a little tantrum .... going to sit outside and sulk)
     
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  8. Andre

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    Great stuff @free3dom, thank you. Looking forward to the next installment.
     
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  9. ET

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    Just remember to post down here when you've updated the post up there ;)
     
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  10. Stoefnick

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    Hi free3dom and the rest of the community

    I have been Lurking for about a week trying to do as much research as possible with regards to Vaping and how to move forward from a R 300 starter kit and keeping an eye on my bank balance..

    Thank you so much for this, ill be putting in my order from Vapeking as soon as i see that the kit is available to buy on their website.
     
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  11. DarkSide

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    @Stoefnick Welcome to the forum and a very wise investment, good luck with your purchase, enjoy the clouds!
     
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  12. free3dom

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    The tutorial/review for the Subox Mini has now been complete and is posted above :D

    Welcome @Stoefnick
    I'm very happy to hear this helped you - makes the effort totally worthwhile :)
    Enjoy the kit if you do get it, I'm loving mine :)
    Enjoy the forum

    And to all the rest who have posted so far, thanks for the kind words, I do appreciate it! :)
     
  13. Rob Fisher

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    @free3dom you rock! You are a class act Pieter! Awesome job! :rock::rock:
     
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  14. free3dom

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    Thanks Rob, I really appreciate it! :blush:
     
  15. Andre

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    Five star work, @free3dom. Thank you so much. What a pleasure it was to read through that. Now I cannot wait to try the Subox Mini. Just waiting for the vendors to get spare coils so I can order all at once.
     
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  16. free3dom

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    Thanks @Andre, I'm glad you enjoyed it - and if it wasn't already apparent I am really enjoying this device ;)

    I too am looking forward to getting my hands on some more of these coils (especially the 1.5 Ohm ones). So far I know for a fact that @KieranD from Vape Cartel has them incoming, but I do hope all the other vendors will get them as well. These are going to be massively popular and I would not like to see them running out everywhere.

    That said, something I perhaps didn't mention was that, switching to the the smaller airflow setting while using the RBA base works exceptionally well for mouth-to-lung vaping. I suppose it's due to the much improved wicking holes being able to keep up with the lower airflow.
     
  17. Silver

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    @free3dom - that was BRILLIANT

    I loved the way you gave an intro to vaping with the major terms - all in such a concise manner. That takes skill!

    And then the detailed Subox posts. With all those pictures! Really amazing. And so friendly to the newer vaper. Lol, so cool about the stickers to put on the batteries. Nice touch that you touched on that.

    Well done and thanks for all the effort. I am sure many more Subox kits will fly off the shelves because of this.

    Now I want one!

    Thanks again for all the effort. Great stuff!
     
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  18. Cave Johnson

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    This thread. It's epic.
     
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  19. Riddle

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    Excellent read. Was trying to decide between the evic vt and this. I think now this is a definite buy.
     
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  20. free3dom

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    Thanks @Silver, I appreciate it ;)

    Hopefully helping some new vapers get something good right off the bat, which will last them for a good long while, makes this all worth the effort :)

    Of course, the fact that this device (for which I had very high hopes) has not only lived up to my expectations, but far exceeded them played a big role towards me doing this. I almost feel like giving KangerTech a hug for making this kit :p

    I can safely say that all but the most jaded of vapers will appreciate this kit - they've really outdone themselves :D
     
  21. Delaray69

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    Awesome introduction and review!

    Thanks alot

    Any Idea where in CPT one can find this mod? and also whats the lowest OHM the mod allows? I know with the istick 30w u can't go lower than 0.5ohm if i remember correctly....

    Thanks
     
  22. free3dom

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    No idea where in CPT these will be available but I'm sure most of the vendors will be bringing these in and I'm sure there will be more info on availability in the coming week when most of the stock will arrive.

    As to lowest resistance, I forgot to mention that. The mod supports resistances between 0.3 Ohm and 1.6 Ohm (above 1.6 Ohm it can't reach 50W - not that you'd ever need to push a 1.7 Ohm coil that high anyways).
     
  23. Delaray69

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    Thats awesome!

    I will definitely be keeping my eyes open the next week or 2 (as I'm buying a regulated mod in the next week or 2)

    Once again thanks for this post and really good work on all of the info!
     
  24. TylerD

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    Awesome @free3dom ! I love it! Thanks so much.
     
  25. ET

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    Awesome writeup dude. Great little kit this, thoroughly enjoying mine.
     
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