Thanks Doug! Great to hear!
I got the cotton pads, just waiting for the star of the show now
Silence of the (dead) R-Rabbits.
Thanks Doug! Great to hear!
I got the cotton pads, just waiting for the star of the show now
When you gotta just have 2.
One for fruits and one for deserts.
One for fruits and one for deserts.
Just another tip.Aaaaand we up and running!!!!
Thank you to @DougP for the help! Taken a few hits and I am very pleased, think it just needs a little longer to soak in the juice
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Don't fill tank right to the top. Stop just before end of glass
Once filled, put on top cap and hold in place with fingers, now turn mod and tank upside down and tighten cap quickly.
Any rta with top fill will force juice into wick when you close cap due to pressure and cause a bit of flooding.
With this method it won't happen as you pushing air through wick and not juice
Yeah if you fill to much it will push a lot of juice through wick and you will get spitting and juice in your mouth.I’ll remember to do this! Had a woopsie earlier when I filled it to the top
Good place to stop is about half a millimeter below the edge of the glass, or at edge of glass
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On the PnP rebuildable I prefer using the Muji cotton as the supplied cotton gets burned by the mere thought of a dry hit. On the DR I tried Muji but found it a bit too thin and would recommend going double layer. I however do not feel the need to do so as the standard pads work very well. For now I have about twenty weeks worth of rebuilding supplies and although I save and clean my used coils, I rebuild with fresh coils and cotton each time as the cost of coils and cotton does not really make recycling worth while right now. Saving up recycled stock should supplies dry up sometime in the future.
Thinking that winding a Muji strip around the coil on the "stick thingy" two times, starting from the little ridge, may be the way to go.
My mixes are 60/40 in winter and 65/35 in summer and no leaking at all. I can understand why max VG juices could possibly present a problem and may be one reason to go the Muji way as the standard pads do seem "tighter" than Muji. With regular juice there is absolutely no wicking problem however. Even pushing 45 and 50 Watt.
Regards
Quick video...
Thanks for the clear video but I don’t have any issues with the original coils and wicks. I was hoping to see a video on how to build wick it with the Muji cotton or dischem pads etc
I ordered Muji cotton to try, but I see @Raindance mentioned you need to use a double layer, and since the dischem pads are working really well for me so far, I'm rather going to stay with them.
Ookie dookie.... challenge accepted on next pitstop.
It is not much different, you have to cut the muji/dischem cotton to the size of the OG cotton.
Muji double layer, peeling off the edge on the outside facing side only so that you have the "fluffy" side facing the juice.
Dischem cotton also double, no peeling though.
Then there is a 3rd way to reduce leaking by adding a piece of Muji to the OG cotton along the top edge. Its a bit of a pain but will try and do a video for that too.
I am going to have to get my own R Tank for testing, videos and for the sake of science....
So, two things:
1. Thanks, now I understand what the people mean with 'legs out'. Not sure if I did that this time around, but will definitely remember for next time.
2. The part between 12s and 45s, yeah, I forgot that initially and could not figure out why the coil did not want to go down into the bottom section. Lesson learnt as well. Fortunately I did not push too hard and bend the legs.
So, two things:
1. Thanks, now I understand what the people mean with 'legs out'. Not sure if I did that this time around, but will definitely remember for next time.
2. The part between 12s and 45s, yeah, I forgot that initially and could not figure out why the coil did not want to go down into the bottom section. Lesson learnt as well. Fortunately I did not push too hard and bend the legs.
Was it the unscrewing before the "legs out" that was confusing, or the part where you couldn't get it in
Just a tipSo, two things:
1. Thanks, now I understand what the people mean with 'legs out'. Not sure if I did that this time around, but will definitely remember for next time.
2. The part between 12s and 45s, yeah, I forgot that initially and could not figure out why the coil did not want to go down into the bottom section. Lesson learnt as well. Fortunately I did not push too hard and bend the legs.
Make sure you screw those post screws as far out as you can.
If you don't sometimes the mesh leg will catch on the screw and bends and doesn't go in
Yeah, uhm, didn't unscrew the post screws at all...
Here is the info I sent to Rivera regarding using the Dischem pads.
It's pretty easy to do.
When building it's easier to completely remove the airflow ring. It's easier to get to the screws and you wont forget about them
Loud and clear! I’ll get some dischem pads and give it a try. Thank you!Here is the info I sent to Rivera regarding using the Dischem pads.
It's pretty easy to do.
These ones
Was it the unscrewing before the "legs out" that was confusing, or the part where you couldn't get it in
The first time I tried it the legs were too close together so I pulled them apart. After inserting I tried to screw it in. I found out that the two holes were too close together and ended up in the wrong hole. (who designed this thing?) My biggest issue was that too much juice was running out so I started over again.
The second time I did it I got the hole issue sorted. I think that practice makes perfect. I have been told, rather angrily, that if there is too much cotton in there you shouldn't be screwing at all. At these times the legs are very close together.
Agreed. Treat it like a Blotto.
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