SXK Billet Box issues

Ruwaid

Elite Vaper
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Sandton, Gauteng, South Africa
Hi guys
Hoping someone with experience in BB's can kindly assist me here.
So received a SXK BB yesterday (second hand) and eagerly popped in a 26g SS coil ohming to about 0.54
On first fire I had a huge dry hit, couldn't understand until I popped the panel open and saw the ohms were now at 1.24 :(

Hit the fire button again and the ohms came back down to 0.54. Since then its been fluctuating hectic...up and down. I was told that SS does do that and its common to see jumps between 0.10 and 0.15ohms and that I should try claptons. Visited Vapers Corner who also couldn't advise me on the issue after them doing a whole new coil and wick.

Then tried Clapton wire....seemed much better for the first hour then bang...massive dry hit and also jumped to almost 2.0 ohms. But for the first hour, after each pull the ohms would creep up 0.01 ohms and I leave it to stand for a few seconds, tap the fire button and it drops back to original ohms.

Things I have checked/done:
-Cleaned all contact points and the thing that screws down the boro tank with alcohol swobs
-I did notice that one post screw on my Exocet deck always was loose each time I opened up the boro although I tightened it down properly before juicing up.
-so I swopped the Exocet for the insider and even used the newer post screws in the bag and it sits much tighter...although the insider does the same....creeps up 0.01 after each, lay for a few seconds, hit fire and back down. This also with a Clapton

Strange thing is that even with the nautilus adaptor and coil, the ohms jumped hectic so could have ruled out post screws being an issue.

Any help please guys?

Thank you
 
did you check to see if the chipset is dry, ie. no juice there? is it the DNA60 version or the 70w?
 
Howzit @Dela Rey Steyn that was my next guess bud. Unfortunately don't have those screw heads on hand to open the little box up :(
If I do find some in....would stuffing some paper towel in for a while do the trick assuming its not massive damage? or is there some sort of elec spray that I can use?
 
not sure, send me a link to what you have in mind, that spray is about the best for that price from RS
 
The 70w ones don't have any coating on the chipset to protect it from juice. make sure you have a look around for a decent Condensation plug as well bud
 
I would have offered to spray yours for you, but the shipping to and fro will be so close to the price of a can of coating, its not worth it. Its not a bad piece of kit to have, especially if you are a vaper
 
@Dela Rey Steyn Thanks bud for the great advice. I do have some sort of condensation plug as well. Might not be the best by the looks of it.
I do sometimes travel to Tzneen and just might take you up on that offer bud :) but should definitely get something here before that!
 
@Dela Rey Steyn Thanks bud for the great advice. I do have some sort of condensation plug as well. Might not be the best by the looks of it.
I do sometimes travel to Tzneen and just might take you up on that offer bud :) but should definitely get something here before that!

Let me know when you are this side again, Tzaneen is about an Hour away from us
 
Remember to first clean the electronics with alcohol pads and let it dry before you spray. Maybe first see if it works correctly before you spray.
 
By the time you place it in your vape the plastic has settled. There will be no fumes.
i don’t know to much about the materials, i think it’s just wise to practice caution. how far is that plug away from the coils anyway?
 
i don’t know to much about the materials, i think it’s just wise to practice caution. how far is that plug away from the coils anyway?

It doesn't touch any hot parts. And its situated before the air gets to the coil. Been using mine for over a year now and not showing any signs of heat damage.
 
Let me know when you are this side again, Tzaneen is about an Hour away from us
@Dela Rey Steyn , you seem quite clued up on this. Will Q30 work as well?

If so I see @Ruwaid is in Sandton. I work in Bryanston, I have a full tin and if we can meet he can borrow and use, the we can arrange to collect again. I need to do the electronics in my bb’s as well, but a bit hesitant to strip out totally.

If someone has done this before can you maybe advise what should and shouldn’t be done, and what to watch out for. I have lost one allready, no amount of rice or commercial silica could save it. Thinking of turning it into a mech BB. Just have to sort out some ground rules on this one.
 
@Dela Rey Steyn , you seem quite clued up on this. Will Q30 work as well?

If so I see @Ruwaid is in Sandton. I work in Bryanston, I have a full tin and if we can meet he can borrow and use, the we can arrange to collect again. I need to do the electronics in my bb’s as well, but a bit hesitant to strip out totally.

If someone has done this before can you maybe advise what should and shouldn’t be done, and what to watch out for. I have lost one allready, no amount of rice or commercial silica could save it. Thinking of turning it into a mech BB. Just have to sort out some ground rules on this one.

I completely forgot about Q30!!! This Wil definitely do the trick. Just as stated before in this thread, please make sure that the board is clean and free from dust before you coat it. The Q30 has a range of upto about 90degrees heat resistance and is also not flammable when Completely dry.
 
@Dela Rey Steyn , you seem quite clued up on this. Will Q30 work as well?

If so I see @Ruwaid is in Sandton. I work in Bryanston, I have a full tin and if we can meet he can borrow and use, the we can arrange to collect again. I need to do the electronics in my bb’s as well, but a bit hesitant to strip out totally.

If someone has done this before can you maybe advise what should and shouldn’t be done, and what to watch out for. I have lost one allready, no amount of rice or commercial silica could save it. Thinking of turning it into a mech BB. Just have to sort out some ground rules on this one.
Mech BB.. Now there is an idea!!!! It should be easy to do PWM as well, plenty of space to fit a Mosfet in there. Lol, only "clued up" because I've done my fair share of board level repairs when I was still with General Electric.
 
@Room Fogger thank you for your kind offer bud! I once came and fetched something from you at your office park but you had left and I picked it up from the guard house!

Just like you...im also afraid to open that box and DIY. it has been behaving since I dropped in a fused Clapton into the insider deck...also changed the post screws and I only see a jump of 0.02ohm max when firing. But a clean n spray is definitely needed
 
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