Tesla Invader III

Rude Rudi

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I have seen loads of pics of the new Tesla Invader on social media but no real mention here?

Does anyone have one? Is it any good? Is it better than the current plethora of new mods (Minikin 2, Aien, etc)? Should I consider one?
 
I have one and it's excellent. It's not what I'd call a pocket mod, this thing is *ahem* sturdily built. As in you could knock nails in with it. The lack of TC and a screen might put some off. But it does what it's supposed to do: hit hard with minimum fuss. Think of it as a mech mod with a dial to turn down the power, along with some safety features (reverse polarity, overheating, etc) that you'd find on a regulated mod.

It's also nice for a change to not have to agonise about figures. You don't know what wattage or temp you're vaping it, the potentiometer is marked in Roman numerals from I to V. You just dial it to where the vape is right and leave it there. Who cares whether it's 52W or 65W or 71W? The only caveat is that, as with a mech, you don't want to build too low on this. I don't go below 0.4Ω on it.
 
Don't own one yet, but it is on my to-buy-list. They use it as one of their mods to use for tasting at Juicy Joes, and I like the feel of it, the simplicity of it. Also used my brothers. It will not be my run-around-mod. But I really like it and will get it once budget allows.
As @RichJB said, it is a hard-hitting mech with basic safety features. (Much like the Noisy Cricket v2)
 
the tesla is an awesome mod...built to last and does what its supposed to do really well...lots of people are put off by it cause it doesn't "look" as nice as some of the newer mods but it is definitely worth it...
 
@RichJB I have been looking at this as well, my only concern though, will it fit my 25mm atty's?
 
There is overhang on my Limitless Plus. It doesn't bother me, though.
 
Best mod I've ever owned. Fact is: this mod just works. Never had a miss fire, never had that RX200 dropped 510 pin issue, hits hard, great battery life.

The Cricket ii25 has one very important thing over the Invader though - it shows when the battery is round 30%. The Invader simply dies. (Ok 2 things, if you count the ridiculous low price of the Cricket)

These potentiometers are awesome, but I would want it to start at -1 and then work to 5. I sometimes build a low power tank so I only need about 3.5V

I've had mine since April, and it is only showing use now - the metal is starting to show around the edges.
 
Hi all. I've got the tesla invader III about 2 days ago. Love the device. I've been reading around with regards to safety. I do understand that it has safety features and some would regard as a regulated device and others would regard it as an unregulated. I have a two questions about it.

1) With its safety features, does ohms law apply when using this device? ( I am very familiar with ohms law)

2) What batteries are safe to use on this device?

I've been running a build at 0.13ohms(keeping it at level 1 on potentiometer and pulse vaping) and have been ignorant of ohms law because I was under the impression of its safety features keeping me from having batteries vent. Thanking everyone in advance for the help!

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk
 
Hi all. I've got the tesla invader III about 2 days ago. Love the device. I've been reading around with regards to safety. I do understand that it has safety features and some would regard as a regulated device and others would regard it as an unregulated. I have a two questions about it.

1) With its safety features, does ohms law apply when using this device? ( I am very familiar with ohms law)

2) What batteries are safe to use on this device?

I've been running a build at 0.13ohms(keeping it at level 1 on potentiometer and pulse vaping) and have been ignorant of ohms law because I was under the impression of its safety features keeping me from having batteries vent. Thanking everyone in advance for the help!

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

Hi @Vinay
I dont know this device myself so cant advise you directly

However, choosing the right battery depends on what load you want to place on the battery irrespective of the device.

And also, even if a device is regulated, it doesnt mean you can put in any batteries. The device will want to push out the power you dial in and if the batteries are not up to the task, it could spell problems.

Have a look at the following thread - it illustrates this quite nicely
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/battery-safety-even-in-regulated-mods.t35829/
 
Hi @Vinay
I dont know this device myself so cant advise you directly

However, choosing the right battery depends on what load you want to place on the battery irrespective of the device.

And also, even if a device is regulated, it doesnt mean you can put in any batteries. The device will want to push out the power you dial in and if the batteries are not up to the task, it could spell problems.

Have a look at the following thread - it illustrates this quite nicely
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/battery-safety-even-in-regulated-mods.t35829/
@Silver about batteries I though you just buy the best that's on the market. Is there a variety when I started I ask the vendor what's the best and I got the brown ones it was like R200 each.
 
@Silver about batteries I though you just buy the best that's on the market. Is there a variety when I started I ask the vendor what's the best and I got the brown ones it was like R200 each.

@Dolfie there are several batteries available from several manufacturers. They all have different max continuous amp draw ratings. (CDR)

Usually a trade off between max CDR and capacity (mah)

So depending on how much current you need to draw you choose the most suited battery.

At lowish power on regulateds it's not going to make much of a difference

But at high power where you are pushing the batteries hard it becomes more important and safety is always critical.

And at low ohms on mechanical devices your battery choice is very important.
 
Hi all. I've got the tesla invader III about 2 days ago. Love the device. I've been reading around with regards to safety. I do understand that it has safety features and some would regard as a regulated device and others would regard it as an unregulated. I have a two questions about it.

1) With its safety features, does ohms law apply when using this device? ( I am very familiar with ohms law)

2) What batteries are safe to use on this device?

I've been running a build at 0.13ohms(keeping it at level 1 on potentiometer and pulse vaping) and have been ignorant of ohms law because I was under the impression of its safety features keeping me from having batteries vent. Thanking everyone in advance for the help!

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

Hi @Vinay , ohm's law is still important, even when safety features exist. Especially in a mod like the Tesla Invader or Noisy Cricket II as the features are basic (I have a Noisy Cricket myself). Good quality batteries are a must, I suggest the brown LG HE2's or the green LG HB2's as they have a 20A and 30A continues discharge respectively.

To start I would advise to build at around 0.2 ohms and above and use the potentiometer to push the power. Use an ohm's law calculator such as this one http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html to understand what is happening with your build and the power being drawn from the batteries.

Hope this helps. Sorry if I'm stating something you already know. Happy vaping :)
 
If I was willing to build down to 0.13Ω on the Invader (I'm not), I would certainly be looking at 25A or preferably 30A batteries. Even at the lowest setting on the potentiometer, a 0.13Ω build is drawing nearly 28A and 100W. Up at level V (6.6V), you will be placing serious strain on almost any batteries. I have an Invader with 25R batts and don't build below 0.35Ω on it. And then I also run the pot at about level II which is around 4V iirc. That is 45W with about 11.5A draw, only slightly warmer than the vape I get from my regulated mods at around 30-35W and well within the 25R's capabilities.

Afaik the pot doesn't increase voltage proportionately, i.e. the intervals between the numerals grows, with more as you go higher. From what I've read, it's:
I 3.6V
II 4V
III 4.6V
IV 5.4V
V 6.6V

So be careful up around the top end. Things increase a lot. Even with the built-in safety features, I wouldn't rely on them.
 
Thank you all for the help! I need to change my build ASAP until I get other batteries.
 
Hey Guys,

I have a 0.1 build in my invader 3 and I am running dual VTC5s in the box. I have the regulator set at lowest (3.6v) and I dont intent to change this. It vapes and it vapes nice. I am obviously concerned though. I am enjoying the vape its producing but I would like to know if I am in the safe zone or should I consider changing my build?
 
Hey @Sterling Vape

Put your build in here:

http://reprova.com/calc/?a=1&b=1&c=1&d=0.32&e=2&f=7&g=3.7&h=1&j=2&k=1.45&l=1&m=0&n=0.1&o=0.09

It tells you exactly what you have, which AMPS, what wattage you'd require, voltage the whole works.

Can you post the URL back when you're done (you'll see the figures change as you put your data in - very cool for sharing)

Cool tool!

The resistance based on the parameters i have set looks right.

However, the amps is at 37.7 which is a bit concerning. Not sure if I am reading this thing right.

http://reprova.com/calc/?a=2&b=2&c=3&d=0.51&e=2&f=7&g=3.6&h=1&j=3&k=1.08&l=1&m=0&n=0.16&o=0.09
 
Even though it's burst Amps and not continuous, yes that is a rather high.

You saw that if you make your i/d 3mm, and not as your 2mm, the Amps goes down to 28.48?

Play around with the tool, it's the only one that works for me as it shows exactly what voltage is needed for any given build.
 
You saw that if you make your i/d 3mm, and not as your 2mm, the Amps goes down to 28.48?
.

Oh Shucks i missed that. makes more sense now. However my wraps are 6 instead of 7. So it is actually 32.78Amps. What is the difference between burst and continuous?
 
What is the difference between burst and continuous?

I am no expert, the first time I got involved with power was when I started vaping, then again I bet that is how most of us learned about it.

Most batteries have 2 sets of limits - continuous and burst (is it burst? - damn you full work week!) Continuous means you can safely draw a set Amps for a long time. Those LG Chocolates does 18A now, and Those Green Shreks does 20 I think. They go all the way down to those flash light batteries which does about 2 Amps. Then you get the other one - that means about 3 seconds, as in a short hit. So the latter will of course be the higher Amps. But for our safety we use Continuous.

I just Googled it, it is called Pulse, or Burst draw.

Just remember that in parallel mode you are doubling the amps, but in serial mode you only double voltage. The Tesla Invader III is a serial mod, which means you stick 2 Shreks in, it means your "safe" Amp limit really is only 20 Amps.

***One of the seniors - can you check that statement in red please.
 
I am no expert, the first time I got involved with power was when I started vaping, then again I bet that is how most of us learned about it.

Most batteries have 2 sets of limits - continuous and burst (is it burst? - damn you full work week!) Continuous means you can safely draw a set Amps for a long time. Those LG Chocolates does 18A now, and Those Green Shreks does 20 I think. They go all the way down to those flash light batteries which does about 2 Amps. Then you get the other one - that means about 3 seconds, as in a short hit. So the latter will of course be the higher Amps. But for our safety we use Continuous.

I just Googled it, it is called Pulse, or Burst draw.

Just remember that in parallel mode you are doubling the amps, but in serial mode you only double voltage. The Tesla Invader III is a serial mod, which means you stick 2 Shreks in, it means your "safe" Amp limit really is only 20 Amps.

***One of the seniors - can you check that statement in red please.
quite informative. So looks like im in the green then, but lets hear what the experts say. For now il throw the RDA on a regulated just in case...
 
quite informative. So looks like im in the green then, but lets hear what the experts say. For now il throw the RDA on a regulated just in case...

The Tesla is regulated. What I've seen is that most regulated mods are in fact serial so that problem will really persist - of not being able to double the Amps.

Check here, a rough (and bad!) list I just found:


Dual 18650 in Parallel:
Eleaf iStick 100W
Eleaf iStick TC100W
Kanger KBOX 120W
Kanger KBOX 200W
Sigelei Fuchai 200W TC
****************************************************************

Dual 18650 in SERIES:
SnowWolf 200W TC Box Mod TC
Sigelei T150W Box Mod (2 FREE 18650 Batteries) Touchscreen
Tarot 200VTC Mod By Vaporesso
Sigelei 213W Box Mod
Player Mod DNA133/DNA200
Smok X Cube II 160 Watt Box Mod TC
Laisimo S3 200W TC
Cuboid 150W TC Mod by JoyeTech
Laisimo L1 200W
iPV5 200W Mod by Pioneer4You
R200 by Smok 200W TC Smok
 
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