Considering an OBS Engine Nano for first RTA

[aktorsyl]

So I haven't dabbled with RTA's yet and did some research (on the web as well as on here), and it seems as if the OBS Engine Nano would be the best bet for starting out - especially considering that it's also single-coil.

However, deciding on the RTA itself is one thing. What about the rest? I assume I need the full CoilMaster toolkit and all that. Or is the one coil that is included with the OBS Engine Nano good enough for testing the theory for a week or two first? In which case I guess I just need Cotton Bacon or something for the first couple of weeks?

 

[Dolfie]

So I haven't dabbled with RTA's yet and did some research (on the web as well as on here), and it seems as if the OBS Engine Nano would be the best bet for starting out - especially considering that it's also single-coil.

However, deciding on the RTA itself is one thing. What about the rest? I assume I need the full CoilMaster toolkit and all that. Or is the one coil that is included with the OBS Engine Nano good enough for testing the theory for a week or two first? In which case I guess I just need Cotton Bacon or something for the first couple of weeks?

Some will agree others will disagree for me I like the coilmaster makes my life easier. Cotton bacon will last you probably 2 months if not longer. I change wick every second day and a coil every week but you don't need to. The wire that works for me now on the Nano is 24gage Ni80. The wicking is key on the Nano you will have to play around with it.

 

[aktorsyl]

Some will agree others will disagree for me I like the coilmaster makes my life easier. Cotton bacon will last you probably 2 months if not longer. I change wick every second day and a coil every week but you don't need to. The wire that works for me now on the Nano is 24gage Ni80. The wicking is key on the Nano you will have to play around with it.

Thanks @Dolfie . The sites don't specify, what particular type of coil comes with the OBS Engine Nano? What I'm thinking is to use the included coil (should last me a week or 3, as I only use my DTL setup in the evenings) before buying the toolkit to make more.

EDIT: was also considering getting the OBS Engine Nano, some Cotton Bacon, and then just a pack of these: https://www.sirvape.co.za/collectio...ller-staple-staggered-fused-clapton-coil-pack

That postpones the need to actually make coils for a bit while I figure out the rest.

 

[Dolfie]

Thanks @Dolfie . The sites don't specify, what particular type of coil comes with the OBS Engine Nano? What I'm thinking is to use the included coil (should last me a week or 3, as I only use my DTL setup in the evenings) before buying the toolkit to make more.

EDIT: was also considering getting the OBS Engine Nano, some Cotton Bacon, and then just a pack of these: https://www.sirvape.co.za/collectio...ller-staple-staggered-fused-clapton-coil-pack

That postpones the need to actually make coils for a bit while I figure out the rest.

@daniel craig did a great review about OBS Nano I suggest you check it out.

 

[Bizkuit]

IMO the engine nano is probably one of the best RTA's one can start with. Cant think of an easier RTA to coil and wick. Awesome flavor and a leak less design that actually works. The included Clapton coil and sheet of cotton should last a couple of weeks.

 

[aktorsyl]

@daniel craig did a great review about OBS Nano I suggest you check it out.

I did

 

[aktorsyl]

IMO the engine nano is probably one of the best RTA's one can start with. Cant think of an easier RTA to coil and wick. Awesome flavor and a leak less design that actually works. The included Clapton coil and sheet of cotton should last a couple of weeks.

Thanks @Bizkuit ! Will these be compatible? https://www.sirvape.co.za/collectio...ller-staple-staggered-fused-clapton-coil-pack

Second question: how do you determine the min/max wattage for built coils like these? Commercial coils have wattage ranges, these obviously do not. For instance, my 0.3ohm commercial EC coils are rated 30-80W, so could you then argue that a built coil giving 0.3 ohm resistance will also have an optimal range between 30W and 80W? (taking Ohm's law into consideration)

 

[Bizkuit]

@aktorsyl The coils look to be wrapped counterclockwise from the picks so with the left post hole on the nano slightly raised they should work fine.
As for watts its going to cost you a bit of experimentation. Running my 22 gauge ni80 at 0.43 ohms I'm vaping happily at 45 watts

 

[Kalashnikov]

the included coil will work perfectly. i dont think you would need to really change it anytime soon. just get some wicking material and you good to go

 

[aktorsyl]

Thanks for all the advice, everyone. Will see how it performs when it arrives.
At any rate, it should be better flavour than the iJust S I've got running at the moment. Surely.

 

[Bizkuit]

Having had the Ijust this will be worlds different.

 

[Caveman]

Thanks for all the advice, everyone. Will see how it performs when it arrives.
At any rate, it should be better flavour than the iJust S I've got running at the moment. Surely.

Oh yes, you are in for a treat. It is a seriously good RTA. The included coil will last you no problem. I have been using mine for over a month now, I dry burn and clean it when needed.

In general you don't need any toolkit to build coils. I started out with a screwdriver and nail clippers to cut the leads and used that for many months. I got a GeekVape mini toolkit as a gift and have been using that with a screw driver to wrap my coils around. As long as you have a mod with a good ohm reader you can build directly on it. If you are planning on using the IJustS battery, you should be fine with the included coil, mine comes in at 0.345ohms, better to be sure and see if you can't check it on a mod though.

Let us know how you find it.

 

[aktorsyl]

Oh yes, you are in for a treat. It is a seriously good RTA. The included coil will last you no problem. I have been using mine for over a month now, I dry burn and clean it when needed.

In general you don't need any toolkit to build coils. I started out with a screwdriver and nail clippers to cut the leads and used that for many months. I got a GeekVape mini toolkit as a gift and have been using that with a screw driver to wrap my coils around. As long as you have a mod with a good ohm reader you can build directly on it. If you are planning on using the IJustS battery, you should be fine with the included coil, mine comes in at 0.345ohms, better to be sure and see if you can't check it on a mod though.

Let us know how you find it.

Luckily I have the Wismec Predator, so should be sorted in that department. Quick and somewhat obvious question, but.. when you install the pre-supplied coil, I assume you don't have to fiddle with it with ceramic tweezers and pulse it to see if it glows evenly and all that? I've watched countless building vids but none of them use prebuilt coils, so it's hard to tell what "normal procedure" would be.

From what I can tell, it's as simple as putting the coil in (so it's closest to the bigger of the 2 airholes), in such a way that it doesn't touch the deck edge but also not the posts. Wick it and drop the cotton just barely into the juice holes (as in, just sortof plug them with the cotton but don't push the cotton all the way in there). I think it's a fairly safe assumption that I'm going to screw up the wicking a few times in the beginning. Then turn it on, check the resistance (with the supplied coil it should be in the 0.3 ohm region) and it's off to the races.

Still not entirely sure how to know what safe min/max wattage ranges are on the coils.. I'm going to assume 30-80W is safe, with 40W being a safe optimal (although that's mostly subjective).

EDIT: I'm also mentally preparing for the increased juice consumption that I'll get with the OBS vs the iJust

 

[Caveman]

Luckily I have the Wismec Predator, so should be sorted in that department. Quick and somewhat obvious question, but.. when you install the pre-supplied coil, I assume you don't have to fiddle with it with ceramic tweezers and pulse it to see if it glows evenly and all that? I've watched countless building vids but none of them use prebuilt coils, so it's hard to tell what "normal procedure" would be.

From what I can tell, it's as simple as putting the coil in (so it's closest to the bigger of the 2 airholes), in such a way that it doesn't touch the deck edge but also not the posts. Wick it and drop the cotton just barely into the juice holes (as in, just sortof plug them with the cotton but don't push the cotton all the way in there). I think it's a fairly safe assumption that I'm going to screw up the wicking a few times in the beginning. Then turn it on, check the resistance (with the supplied coil it should be in the 0.3 ohm region) and it's off to the races.

Still not entirely sure how to know what safe min/max wattage ranges are on the coils.. I'm going to assume 30-80W is safe, with 40W being a safe optimal (although that's mostly subjective).

You pretty much have it. Think of a pre-built coil as a coil you just wrapped yourself. So you still pulse and check that it's even same way you would do with any coil you built yourself. I have wicked mine with the cotton barely touching to the cotton going straight through the holes and touching the deck, both ways have been the same and I haven't had any issues. I vape mine at 34 watts, 0.34 ohm coil.

You want the coil to be almost in line with the 2 air holes, it is fairly high up. My leads are pretty much straight.
I'll post some pics now from my phone.

 

[aktorsyl]

You pretty much have it. Think of a pre-built coil as a coil you just wrapped yourself. So you still pulse and check that it's even same way you would do with any coil you built yourself. I have wicked mine with the cotton barely touching to the cotton going straight through the holes and touching the deck, both ways have been the same and I haven't had any issues. I vape mine at 34 watts, 0.34 ohm coil.

You want the coil to be almost in line with the 2 air holes, it is fairly high up. My leads are pretty much straight.
I'll post some pics now from my phone.

Very very helpful, thanks! Guess I should probably grab some ceramic tweezers in case the prebuilt coil(s) need tweaking.

 

[Raindance]

Luckily I have the Wismec Predator, so should be sorted in that department. Quick and somewhat obvious question, but.. when you install the pre-supplied coil, I assume you don't have to fiddle with it with ceramic tweezers and pulse it to see if it glows evenly and all that? I've watched countless building vids but none of them use prebuilt coils, so it's hard to tell what "normal procedure" would be.

From what I can tell, it's as simple as putting the coil in (so it's closest to the bigger of the 2 airholes), in such a way that it doesn't touch the deck edge but also not the posts. Wick it and drop the cotton just barely into the juice holes (as in, just sortof plug them with the cotton but don't push the cotton all the way in there). I think it's a fairly safe assumption that I'm going to screw up the wicking a few times in the beginning. Then turn it on, check the resistance (with the supplied coil it should be in the 0.3 ohm region) and it's off to the races.

Still not entirely sure how to know what safe min/max wattage ranges are on the coils.. I'm going to assume 30-80W is safe, with 40W being a safe optimal (although that's mostly subjective).

EDIT: I'm also mentally preparing for the increased juice consumption that I'll get with the OBS vs the iJust

In terms of Wattage, just start low and push it up incrementally until you hit your sweet spot.

Regards.

 

[Raindance]

Very very helpful, thanks! Guess I should probably grab some ceramic tweezers in case the prebuilt coil(s) need tweaking.

When you pulse them and they glow unevenly, just stroke them with a metal object a couple of times. Not under power though.

Regards.

 

[Slick]

Reading this thread just makes me want to get a RTA,I had a serpent mini 22,RDTA(cant remember which 1) and a Kennedy 22 RDA but gave up on them because I could never get it right.
@aktorsyl please let me know how it goes and post some pics as well so I can also have a go at it again

 

[aktorsyl]

Reading this thread just makes me want to get a RTA,I had a serpent mini 22,RDTA(cant remember which 1) and a Kennedy 22 RDA but gave up on them because I could never get it right.
@aktorsyl please let me know how it goes and post some pics as well so I can also have a go at it again

Will do so, bud.
It should arrive on Thursday, then I'll have a go.

 

[Slick]

Will do so, bud.
It should arrive on Thursday, then I'll have a go.

Where did you order from?

 

[aktorsyl]

Where did you order from?

SirVape, this afternoon.

 

[WELIHF]

In terms of getting to the right wattage range, I start with setting the mod at 3.7v (you should be able to see voltage when adjusting wattage), when dry firing if the coils heat up too fast you're too high, too slow and you're too low.

Generally std round coils work well from 3 to 4.5v, bigger Claptons/staple etc anything from 4.2 up to around 6v

If you can't see the voltage, use ohms law to calculate, 3.7v on 0.3ohm will be at 45w

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[aktorsyl]

While I'm waiting for everything to arrive, I did some more research on coil building. And here's one thing I don't quite understand yet. I've looked at the SteamEngine, and if I were to build my own coils using 24 gauge Kanthal A1, I'd need 4 wraps to get 0.3 ohm (sounds about right so far). But according to the heat flux section, 20W would already result in an extremely hot vape - while most people use double that wattage for a mild vape?

Link for reference: http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?r=0.3&hf=300&awg=24&id=2.5&ll=4

That should show my calculations. Maybe I made a mistake somewhere?

 

[Caveman]

While I'm waiting for everything to arrive, I did some more research on coil building. And here's one thing I don't quite understand yet. I've looked at the SteamEngine, and if I were to build my own coils using 24 gauge Kanthal A1, I'd need 4 wraps to get 0.3 ohm (sounds about right so far). But according to the heat flux section, 20W would already result in an extremely hot vape - while most people use double that wattage for a mild vape?

Link for reference: http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?r=0.3&hf=300&awg=24&id=2.5&ll=4

That should show my calculations. Maybe I made a mistake somewhere?

I don't think coil engine takes into account the cotton and juice saturation thereof. Plain kanthal will be hot as hell at 20watts. But add cotton, juice and airflow and then you have a cool vape at 20watts

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[aktorsyl]

I don't think coil engine takes into account the cotton and juice saturation thereof. Plain kanthal will be hot as hell at 20watts. But add cotton, juice and airflow and then you have a cool vape at 20watts

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Ahh, that makes sense. Silly question, but is there any danger is using too low a wattage for a coil? For instance, starting on 10W for a coil that's supposed to function at 40W?