Kayfun For The Noob

rvdwesth

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Ok Guys so I am very much hooked on this deal and I keep on craving for more flavor and overall better vape....

Started with a Twisp - Hated the juice in mouth feeling :sick:
Got a Vapeonly Maxi and a larger Ego VV Battery - like it, but it doesn't give a lot of flavor and the battery only lasts about 4 hours :( (I vape a lot)
I currently run around with 2 Twisp batteries, my Kangertech, 2 Maxi's filled up and a 2.5ml spare juice for the day. (I told you I vape a lot )

Now I am in confusion central...
1st Problem MVP or tube? I like the look and feel of the iTaste MVP2 - So 1st choice... but the Vamo V5 is also appealing and taking a drag or so off the demo at eCiggies HO i liked it a lot!

2nd Problem I am the tinkering type and like to play with big boy toys - So after endless youtube reviews I kind of like the idea around a Kayfun? How much effort is the rebuilding process and how long between rebuilds?

And lastly for me the noob (very tech savvy) would you recommend the Kayfun or should I rather stick to a Nautilus or Aerotank instead?

Oh and by the way - I do realize the mediocre juice needs an upgrade too, next buy 5 Pawns for sure :party:
 
So let me understand this. A mech mod is cheaper and has less points of failure, but you're pretty much stuck with the power you're vaping, but the power you're vaping at is dependant on the coil you build? Whereas an electrical mod is pricier but added to the options to vary voltage or wattage you're also protected from an exploding battery and shorts???

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yes that pretty much sums it up

just to add, you can run sub ohms on a mech, whereas most electronic mods wont fire under 1.2Ω
 
1.2 - 1.6 ohm will work for me - much more than I'm used to :)
So the elec mod will work perfect.
From what i can see using an elec mod you can also get away with not having a separate ohm meter?
 
1.2 - 1.6 ohm will work for me - much more than I'm used to :)
So the elec mod will work perfect.
From what i can see using an elec mod you can also get away with not having a separate ohm meter?
correct

most electronic mods have a built in ohms reader
 
1.2 - 1.6 ohm will work for me - much more than I'm used to :)
So the elec mod will work perfect.

From what i can see using an elec mod you can also get away with not having a separate ohm meter?

Indeed, but I would still consider getting the ohm meter anyway. It's one of those invaluable tools you will likely need for troubleshooting at the very least. And is not very expensive, a multimeter will also suffice.
 
yes that pretty much sums it up

just to add, you can run sub ohms on a mech, whereas most electronic mods wont fire under 1.2Ω
That is true of the older generation electronic mods, but not anymore with the Sigelei 20 & 30 W, the Hana & Cana 30 W, the Evic 30W, etcetera.
 
After buying my Kayfun I'm really struggling to get any enjoyment out of commercial tanks, the mpt3 is nice but lacks vapour, nautilus makes awesome clouds but little flavour and zero throat hit. Can't go wrong with the Kayfun. I'm using an innokin SVD to power it and am very very happy with its performance, rarely go over 11 watts. The SVD 2.0 is coming around September, very excited to see how that performs.
 
Sorry, not sure if this was covered, but would I be able to use a Kayfun on a MVP?
And secondly, what's the deal with authentic Kayfuns and clones?

I'm currently using a Kayfun on a MVP with a 1.3 ohm coil. I'm not sure if the MVP possibly won't fire below a certain resistance? Most electronic mods I know of will only fire up to a certain resistance.

I'm a super newbie to RBA's but as far as I understand the difference between the 2 is that the clone is essentially a knock-off of the authentic. Authentic will usually have better build quality etc. and is the "original". The clone is then a cheaper version of the authentic..

I'm sure the more experienced peeps will swoop in soon enough to give you the real answers.
 
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