My mod just exploded! Fire!

Damn. I had a close call when I screwed my Subtank onto a friends SMPL that had a purple EFEST in it. Tube got super hot but I got lucky and no explosion.
 
Damn. I had a close call when I screwed my Subtank onto a friends SMPL that had a purple EFEST in it. Tube got super hot but I got lucky and no explosion.
Doesn't the subtank have a spring loaded positive?
 
Doesn't the subtank have a spring loaded positive?

The problem with Subtanks and Aspire tanks and most cmmercial tanks is that the centre pin does not protrude enough (pushed in it spring adhusts inwards) and when you attach the battery directly to it it shorts
 
So my paragon is unusable.
The force that ripped the top cap and the atty off naturally stripped the entire thread within.
So glad it wasn't in my mouth/face.
 
It's a commercial tank on a mech mod issue, not a battery.
Thankfully it didn't explode when my battery vented with the subtank
 
Takes me back to my first vent :giggle:
Those genesis tanks when they first appeared were such a *****. Come to think of it, they're still a *****.
 
Quite an interesting read. Glad you're okay bud. I had an issue a week ago with a mod heating up on me. Didn't understand the issue at the time. Tried the Aspire Nautilus Mini on the Phantus mod. I thought the tank's sides must have shorted or something, because it worked fine on ths Cloupor mini afterwards with the same coil. Some comments here makes a lot of sense. Been thinking of adding a safety spring in place of the spring on my Punk Slug.
 
Wow, glad you ok and escaped without any serious injury. Learnt quite a bit from your experience. Thank you for opening the thread and to all how gave meaningful advice and reasons for this happening. .

Sent while vaping on Okkum my Smok M80
 
Sorry man, one reason I got rid of Mechs, I also has one that just got extremely hot for no reason never exploded though
 
Well the only thing that can cause a venting battery are these things:

Battery being dropped and damaged. damaging or bending the + and - points together creating a dead short

Dead shorting: either from
-coil ohm too low for battery
-Coil was touching the + and - contacts in a bad area. causing a dead short.
-the pin of the atty of RTA in your case was touching both + and - contacts.

the paragon mod has a universal 510 so its very possible the pin might have touched both, and also the coil build could have just slightly touched both + and - posts creating the short.

Basically the battery had a dead short and then it WILL vent. try go through the mod and identify what the issue was. It happens, you need to be extra safe when vaping esp with mech mods, as there is no fail safe, as you have experienced now. always be very sure everything is correct before firing.

Glad you are ok and still in one piece. if you are too scared to vape get a regulated mod with some fail safes in place so it wont blow up even if you try dead short.

Unfortunatly this is a user error, and cannot be blamed on the vape kit. which ever way you look at it. everything must be double checked before vaping or KAboom.
 
Well the only thing that can cause a venting battery are these things:

Battery being dropped and damaged. damaging or bending the + and - points together creating a dead short

Dead shorting: either from
-coil ohm too low for battery
-Coil was touching the + and - contacts in a bad area. causing a dead short.
-the pin of the atty of RTA in your case was touching both + and - contacts.

the paragon mod has a universal 510 so its very possible the pin might have touched both, and also the coil build could have just slightly touched both + and - posts creating the short.

Basically the battery had a dead short and then it WILL vent. try go through the mod and identify what the issue was. It happens, you need to be extra safe when vaping esp with mech mods, as there is no fail safe, as you have experienced now. always be very sure everything is correct before firing.

Glad you are ok and still in one piece. if you are too scared to vape get a regulated mod with some fail safes in place so it wont blow up even if you try dead short.

Unfortunatly this is a user error, and cannot be blamed on the vape kit. which ever way you look at it. everything must be double checked before vaping or KAboom.

Hey @whatalotigot

Thanks for the reply and advice.
I am sure this needs to go down in the books as a user error, but maybe you can elaborate on what i could have done to prevent this?

- screwed the tank on the top cap and adjusted the firing pin for the tank to sit flush
- screwed on the mech tube
- popped in the freshly charged battery
- screwed in the bottom cap/firing button
- unscrewed the top cap to screw out the pin a bit more as there was a slight rattle
- screwed it back, hit the fire button and BOOM

Could it be that the tank was already causing the short whenit was sitting flush with the copper top cap?
 
It could be. . If you have the remains of the device I would give it a look at. It could be any of these issues. Mainly the firing Pin itself could be touching a area it shouldnt, Iv also had a similar insident. If you look at the RTA or tank pin. there is the center pin (screw) and then the outer area those are the + and - , now if both of those points touch the same pole of the battery that would cause a vent. The center pin should always protrude the outer - contact ring.

lemme know what you find. also pics of the Tank pin could help see what went wrong
 
Hey mate sorry to hear eh...what really bothers me about this is the time span, most ppl don't even get time to chuck it...no heating up...just instant boom...sadly I have become a huge mech fan...
 
just some info from a long time user...the atty positive pin may well protrude today, and everything is fine, and it may well still be fine in a years time, but as the insulator tends to be made of rubber or delrin, it is understandable that it can wear, and allow the pin to rise a bit when screwed onto a mod.

there's also mods that put pressure onto this pin..some telescopically adjustable tube mechs do this...also, think of nemesis for example..you complete the mod by screwing in the button..this pushes the battery up against the mods pin, which is held in palce by a plastic threaded spacer.....which puts pressure on the atty pin. The mods pin shouldnt move, but there is wiggle room in a new nemesis, and in an old nemesis it can move by about a millimetre as the plastic threaded spacer wears..this can move your atty pin up, so even if it looks ok, it can still shrot once assembled.

kanger protanks etc..the pin is held in place by that rubber grommet...very easy to push it up to the point that you will have a short.

homework to take away: give your mods some love each day, realise when things are getting worn and take appropriate action
 
The problem with Subtanks and Aspire tanks and most cmmercial tanks is that the centre pin does not protrude enough (pushed in it spring adhusts inwards) and when you attach the battery directly to it it shorts
Agreed I put in a commercial atty onto my SMPL mod. There was instant heat and I unscrewed as quick as I could. I was using a Sony VT4 at the time. The battery is now useless but I agree with @Paulie the centre pin sits almost flush with the pos/neg of the atty and that would create an immediate short.
 
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