The new Yihi sx mini Q-class = INSANE!

[StefPrins]

So the new sx mini Q-class is a crazy device! 200W TC. It takes 2 18650s and supports 2A onboard charging
TC for Ni/Ti and SS and can build down to 0.0001 ohms in TC, which means the chip is on another level of quality!
Price is TBC.
And the colours they offer are really classy! What's the verdict??

 

[n0ugh7_zw]

its nice, but its not really 200W, can't do that with only 2 X 18650

 

[StefPrins]

its nice, but its not really 200W, can't do that with only 2 X 18650

I don't know the firing specs but I think it might pulse at 200W like the snow wolf

 

[n0ugh7_zw]

if it pulses thats not a real 200W. in any case, at 200W 2 X 18650's will give you some pretty depressing battery life. 200W from 2 X18650's works out to nearly 26.5A of strain per cell... Not cool considering cells that actually deliver over 25A are kinda scarce.

wish they'd just made it 150W but it looks like a good mod, and its a good board in there.

 

[StefPrins]

So the sigelli Fuchai 200W chip is made by Yihi as well and it does not pulse so I'm sure that the q-class won't pulse either

 

[Andre]

Love my SX Mini M class.

Q class available here: http://www.lungcandy.co.za/get-some...ories/mods/sxmini-q-class-200w-regulated-mod/

 

[blujeenz]

So the new sx mini Q-class is a crazy device! 200W TC. It takes 2 18650s and supports 2A onboard charging
TC for Ni/Ti and SS and can build down to 0.0001 ohms in TC, which means the chip is on another level of quality!
Price is TBC.
And the colours they offer are really classy! What's the verdict??

Rolls Royce of regulated mods with a price to match.
Interesting feature is the Intelligent taste control system SXi-Q which works with the new SX pure atomiser.
http://www.yihisxmini.com/Intelligent-electronic-cigarette-and-taste-experience-n242.html

 

[StefPrins]

Very very nice! Thanks hey!

 

[Lord Vetinari]

Rolls Royce of regulated mods with a price to match.
Interesting feature is the Intelligent taste control system SXi-Q which works with the new SX pure atomiser.
http://www.yihisxmini.com/Intelligent-electronic-cigarette-and-taste-experience-n242.html

More shmarmy stock coils trying to take out RTA looool... never gonna happen.

 

[kev mac]

its nice, but its not really 200W, can't do that with only 2 X 18650

Hi n0ugh7_zw I totally respect your knowledge and initially agreed with this though while on line I saw a demonstration of the Sx Q class preforming a test using a Flucke multi meter,a 0.15 high precision resistor and a Flucke tru RMS clamp meter.Using the formula volt x current= power, 5.82v x35.98a = 209.40w What say you on this? Also one must use top quality 3000 may cells to obtain these results. I never go close to said wattage, though many two cell mods are making this claim these days,just curious.

 

[Feliks Karp]

 

[n0ugh7_zw]

Hi n0ugh7_zw I totally respect your knowledge and initially agreed with this though while on line I saw a demonstration of the Sx Q class preforming a test using a Flucke multi meter,a 0.15 high precision resistor and a Flucke tru RMS clamp meter.Using the formula volt x current= power, 5.82v x35.98a = 209.40w What say you on this? Also one must use top quality 3000 may cells to obtain these results. I never go close to said wattage, though many two cell mods are making this claim these days,just curious.

Hmmmm, pulling 35A from the batteries will shorten their life, but yes, its possible, but i'm guessing it'll stress the board out too, so you'd probably drastically shorten its lifespan too. I'm assuming the signal coming off of the Q mini is a flat one... Battery life would also get chewed up mighty fast in such a circumstance.

Even if its doing some sort of voodoo, thats loading the bulk of the stress on the board and not the batteries... 35A is going to generate significant heat. In something bigger like the iJoy Maxo, this is far less of an issue, because the components are spread out (there are 4 PCB's in the Maxo) and the individual components can be bigger and thus have more surface area to dissipate heat.

I'd strongly recommend that anyone wanting to do this not use 3000mAh cells, as none of them have a discharge rating high enough to do this safely. Rather go for LG HB2's which have a 30A discharge rating, that way its not over taxing the cells to such an extent. The trade off is that the cells are only 1500mAh.

Unfortunately the reality with cylindrical cells (18350 all the way up to 32650's), is that you can either have high discharge current ratings or high capacity almost never both. My understanding is that the higher the capacity of the cell, the less well its able to handle heat build up within the cell (Though i could be wrong on this).

When you want to talk about the real apex of high power vaping, the peak of performance are PWM LiPo boxes with 3S or 4S packs (i've even heard of 6S being talked about), they can kick out north of 2000W and the LiPo packs have insanely high discharge ratings (without too much deep research I've seen cells with constant discharge ratings of 250A). That said you can kinda forget about ergonomics (the mods are huge), and portability, with such mods. They're more like the high octane dragsters of the vape world.

The way a lot of dual 18650 mods get around this level of stress is by going into PWM, which basically gives out a sequence of bursts of that power (like a sine wave), thus being more like a pulse in terms of the strain on the board and batteries, I suspect that in the long term this may be less taxing on all the components (batteries included).

Some vapers really hate PWM, because it can make the wattage seem inaccurate, and in some cases you can actually feel the pulsing. For myself I actually quite like it, because it also gives your wicking time to keep up with the coil at really high wattage, a straight DC signal is pretty brutal sometimes.

What i think is a safer way to get a comparable vape in terms of heat and production, would be to read up on Heat Flux, and find out what sort of output is in your wheelhouse and then use the smallest possible amount of wire to achieve it. Thus ramp up and actual power usage will be drastically reduced whiles still delivering a warm to hot vape. Also maximises battery life because often you'll be running at below 3.7V and step down on series regulated mods is very, very efficient. This avenue of exploration really isn't suitable for mechanical mods, as the resistances you'll be dealing with can be, very, very low.

It's also worth noting, that since my previous comments on this thread my understanding of this stuff has increased somewhat (still far from an expert). So I don't really agree with what i said previously.

 

[kev mac]

Hmmmm, pulling 35A from the batteries will shorten their life, but yes, its possible, but i'm guessing it'll stress the board out too, so you'd probably drastically shorten its lifespan too. I'm assuming the signal coming off of the Q mini is a flat one... Battery life would also get chewed up mighty fast in such a circumstance.

Even if its doing some sort of voodoo, thats loading the bulk of the stress on the board and not the batteries... 35A is going to generate significant heat. In something bigger like the iJoy Maxo, this is far less of an issue, because the components are spread out (there are 4 PCB's in the Maxo) and the individual components can be bigger and thus have more surface area to dissipate heat.

I'd strongly recommend that anyone wanting to do this not use 3000mAh cells, as none of them have a discharge rating high enough to do this safely. Rather go for LG HB2's which have a 30A discharge rating, that way its not over taxing the cells to such an extent. The trade off is that the cells are only 1500mAh.

Unfortunately the reality with cylindrical cells (18350 all the way up to 32650's), is that you can either have high discharge current ratings or high capacity almost never both. My understanding is that the higher the capacity of the cell, the less well its able to handle heat build up within the cell (Though i could be wrong on this).

When you want to talk about the real apex of high power vaping, the peak of performance are PWM LiPo boxes with 3S or 4S packs (i've even heard of 6S being talked about), they can kick out north of 2000W and the LiPo packs have insanely high discharge ratings (without too much deep research I've seen cells with constant discharge ratings of 250A). That said you can kinda forget about ergonomics (the mods are huge), and portability, with such mods. They're more like the high octane dragsters of the vape world.

The way a lot of dual 18650 mods get around this level of stress is by going into PWM, which basically gives out a sequence of bursts of that power (like a sine wave), thus being more like a pulse in terms of the strain on the board and batteries, I suspect that in the long term this may be less taxing on all the components (batteries included).

Some vapers really hate PWM, because it can make the wattage seem inaccurate, and in some cases you can actually feel the pulsing. For myself I actually quite like it, because it also gives your wicking time to keep up with the coil at really high wattage, a straight DC signal is pretty brutal sometimes.

What i think is a safer way to get a comparable vape in terms of heat and production, would be to read up on Heat Flux, and find out what sort of output is in your wheelhouse and then use the smallest possible amount of wire to achieve it. Thus ramp up and actual power usage will be drastically reduced whiles still delivering a warm to hot vape. Also maximises battery life because often you'll be running at below 3.7V and step down on series regulated mods is very, very efficient. This avenue of exploration really isn't suitable for mechanical mods, as the resistances you'll be dealing with can be, very, very low.

It's also worth noting, that since my previous comments on this thread my understanding of this stuff has increased somewhat (still far from an expert). So I don't really agree with what i said previously.

You are an expert in my book man!