Rebuild A Twisp Coil?

[bjorn]

hey guys, i was wondering if someone ever tried to rebuild a twisp coil. i watched a video of a guy rebuilding a very similar looking coil and i thought it would be as easy as getting silica and kanthal wire and, voila.

well, according to the pros here, http://www.ecigssa.co.za/threads/suywwacs-user-made-tank-coils-pt2-pt3-nautilus-etc.1613/, apparently it's not that simple. seems i need ohm readers and whatnot whatnot.

i'm hoping someone out there has tried this before and might be able to give me a rough guide as to what to use. i know how to rebuild the thing, just don't know when it comes to voltage/ohms/silica thickness, etc etc what to do?

i got a vision 2 spinner battery the other day and my poor twisp coil just gets burnt with the added power. don't really want to invest now right this minute in a new tank, even though it is obviously going to be inevitable in the future.

thanks in advance.

 

[Yiannaki]

hey guys, i was wondering if someone ever tried to rebuild a twisp coil. i watched a video of a guy rebuilding a very similar looking coil and i thought it would be as easy as getting silica and kanthal wire and, voila.

well, according to the pros here, http://www.ecigssa.co.za/threads/suywwacs-user-made-tank-coils-pt2-pt3-nautilus-etc.1613/, apparently it's not that simple. seems i need ohm readers and whatnot whatnot.

i'm hoping someone out there has tried this before and might be able to give me a rough guide as to what to use. i know how to rebuild the thing, just don't know when it comes to voltage/ohms/silica thickness, etc etc what to do?

i got a vision 2 spinner battery the other day and my poor twisp coil just gets burnt with the added power. don't really want to invest now right this minute in a new tank, even though it is obviously going to be inevitable in the future.

thanks in advance.

Hey bud

I don't know anything about rebuilding coils but I know that you can get a mini Pro Tank 3 from vape club for R95 excluding delivery as well as a 5 pack of coils for R100.

http://www.vapeclub.co.za/collectio...oducts/protank-mini-3-tank-atomiser-dual-coil

Hope this helps. Best if luck

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[bjorn]

yeah thanks man, i've looked at that, but i really want to try with these twisp coils for now, simply because i have 2 twisp batteries already and the whole getup, so why not do something exciting with it?

 

[Mammon]

Hey bjorn, the twisp batteries work great with the ProTanks, and you can build some awesome coils with it.
E.g. http://www.ecigssa.co.za/threads/protank-build-dual-twisted-microcoils.3604

The best bang for buck in my opinion.

 

[MarkK]

@bjorn Are you from cape town?
You can easily rebuild those twisp coils. If you in cape town i will be at vape mob tomorrow morning, i will be happy to give you a little tutorial

 

[bjorn]

Unfortunately not. :/
I got some info in that other thread we chatted in the other day. I think I can do it. Have all the tools. Just haven't had a chance.
I think my biggest concern is that I might blow up my battery or fry the circuitry in the battery unit. As far it seems I have to try and get a resistance of about 1.7ohm for the Twisp battery?

 

[Silver]

Hi @bjorn

I haven't rebuilt the Twisp coils myself - when I started building coils I was already on the mPT2 - which is a great clearomizer device to build coils on.

For your info - when I measured the Twisp standard coils on my ohm meter, they were all between 2.0 and 2.2 ohms.

So aiming for between 1.6 ohms to 2.0 ohms seems like a good place to be. Your mention of 1.7 ohms sounds good.

If you don't have an ohm meter, I will share with you some of the specs of the coils I built for the mPT2 tanks which may give you an indication of what to use. They were all single microcoils.

- 28g Kanthal, 1.5mm diameter, 10 wraps - came out at 1.62 ohms
- 28g Kanthal, 1.5mm diameter, 11 wraps - came out at 1.73 ohms
- 28g Kanthal, 1.5mm diameter, 10 wraps - came out at 1.72 ohms
- 28g Kanthal, 1.5mm diameter, 10 wraps - came out at 1.73 ohms

So I would say go for 28g Kanthal, 10 wraps, 1.5mm ID - and that should give you around 1.7 ohms.

Bear in mind that the "legs" of the mPT2 coils may be different to that on the Twisp. I suspect the Twisp may have shorter leg lengths. So the resistance you get on the Twisp coil may end up slightly less. Not sure about this though.

Hopefully that helps you a bit.

 

[RezaD]

Ummm no .....the twisp coils do not do well below 2.0 Ohms IMO - burnt taste galore as it cannot wick the juice because it is on top. I would stick to 2.0-2.2 Ohms. I have used 32G Kanthal which does work well but using 30G with more wraps is better. Also 30G is a lot easier to work with than 32G. 9 or 10 wraps on a 1.7mm bit should be spot on. If it tends to burn after that add another wrap. If you use a 1.5mm bit it will be 11 wraps.

However, it really is pointless giving you this advice as you DEFINITELY need either a multimeter or Ohms reader to check if your coil is NOT shorting because that will definitely damage your battery. What I did find though is that make sure your negative leg (the one that sits againgst the body of the coil housing) only touches the body where it goes under the rubber grommet. Do not let it touch the body of the housing all along the side before it seats under the grommet as the battery just won't fire it for some reason and it acts like a dead coil.

 

[bjorn]

Thanks for that guys. Well see, I just went with 1.7 ohms as per someone else's suggestion. If I can go higher I definitely would want to. I have 32 guage kanthal and 2mm wick that I can use. I also have one of those sets of jewellers screw drivers so can utilise those for the wrapping.
I have a multimeter too so will be able to check the ohms
Could you guys suggest a good launch pad for amount of wraps based on this info?

 

[Silver]

Ummm no .....the twisp coils do not do well below 2.0 Ohms IMO - burnt taste galore as it cannot wick the juice because it is on top. I would stick to 2.0-2.2 Ohms. I have used 32G Kanthal which does work well but using 30G with more wraps is better. Also 30G is a lot easier to work with than 32G. 9 or 10 wraps on a 1.7mm bit should be spot on. If it tends to burn after that add another wrap. If you use a 1.5mm bit it will be 11 wraps.

However, it really is pointless giving you this advice as you DEFINITELY need either a multimeter or Ohms reader to check if your coil is NOT shorting because that will definitely damage your battery. What I did find though is that make sure your negative leg (the one that sits againgst the body of the coil housing) only touches the body where it goes under the rubber grommet. Do not let it touch the body of the housing all along the side before it seats under the grommet as the battery just won't fire it for some reason and it acts like a dead coil.

Well there you have it @bjorn
Thankfully there is someone who is giving you good advice on rebuilding the Twisp coils.
Thanks @RezaD !

As I said @bjorn - those were coils I built for the mPT2 - which worked great for me - but that is a bottom coil device - unlike the Twisp which is a top coil as @RezaD correctly points out.

 

[bjorn]

when I've got some free cash again, I think I will also invest in something that allows me a bit more customisability.
I got a Vision Spinner battery a while back, it fits the Twisp tank. I found though that it quickly burns the coil as it has too much power.
So my next step will probably be to get a decent tank to go with that battery.

 

[daniel craig]

Ummm no .....the twisp coils do not do well below 2.0 Ohms IMO - burnt taste galore as it cannot wick the juice because it is on top. I would stick to 2.0-2.2 Ohms. I have used 32G Kanthal which does work well but using 30G with more wraps is better. Also 30G is a lot easier to work with than 32G. 9 or 10 wraps on a 1.7mm bit should be spot on. If it tends to burn after that add another wrap. If you use a 1.5mm bit it will be 11 wraps.

However, it really is pointless giving you this advice as you DEFINITELY need either a multimeter or Ohms reader to check if your coil is NOT shorting because that will definitely damage your battery. What I did find though is that make sure your negative leg (the one that sits againgst the body of the coil housing) only touches the body where it goes under the rubber grommet. Do not let it touch the body of the housing all along the side before it seats under the grommet as the battery just won't fire it for some reason and it acts like a dead coil.

What material do you use to re-wick the twisp coil?

 

[RezaD]

What material do you use to re-wick the twisp coil?

Kanthal for the coil (30g or 32g) and either Silica or cotton for the wick. I prefer Japanese cotton. Silica tends to stick to the coil once it's gunked up whereas Japanese cotton does not. Silica lasts longer before needing replacement though but i still prefer the cotton as it does not stick and is very easy to just pull the old wick, dry burn and replace.

 

[daniel craig]

Kanthal for the coil (30g or 32g) and either Silica or cotton for the wick. I prefer Japanese cotton. Silica tends to stick to the coil once it's gunked up whereas Japanese cotton does not. Silica lasts longer before needing replacement though but i still prefer the cotton as it does not stick and is very easy to just pull the old wick, dry burn and replace.

And what's your method of preparing the Japanese cotton?
And how much do you use? Must it be loose or tight?
And the spacing of your wraps and ID?

 

[Twisper]

Kanthal for the coil (30g or 32g) and either Silica or cotton for the wick. I prefer Japanese cotton. Silica tends to stick to the coil once it's gunked up whereas Japanese cotton does not. Silica lasts longer before needing replacement though but i still prefer the cotton as it does not stick and is very easy to just pull the old wick, dry burn and replace.

I agree. I have been building the twisp coils for SWAMBO for six months now, every 5 days I build her a fresh one, or do a dryburn and rewick if the coil is still okay.

30 guage, 7 wraps, 1.6mm ID = 1,8 oHm. 2mm silica wick, perfect....

 

[RezaD]

And what's your method of preparing the Japanese cotton?
And how much do you use? Must it be loose or tight?
And the spacing of your wraps and ID?

No preparation for the cotton. It will have a slightly funky taste as cotton always dies but it will go away. As for how much enough to seal the gap on the sides where it hangs down. The silicone grommet should sit snugly on it. Therefore I always make the coil ID between 1.7 to 2mm to get enough wick in and the wick is normally rather tight through the coil. If you use 30G kanthal there is not enough space for a spaced coil so wraps need to touch each other.