General noob questions

Hi there.
Wanted to find out why can't run the nickel or ti coils.i have a gs tank and run it on my ijust 2 and have been running it for past 2 weeks no problem with the standerd 0.15 nickel coil.
Which mod do you want to use the ti or nickel coils on ?
 
Hi there.
Wanted to find out why can't run the nickel or ti coils.i have a gs tank and run it on my ijust 2 and have been running it for past 2 weeks no problem with the standerd 0.15 nickel coil.
Thats quite interesting. The iJust can only fire to 0.2 or 0.3 Ohm if I remember correctly, so it is supposes to not fire if you put anything lower than that on there. You run quite a risk of blowing that battery to bits if you're vaping extended times on an resistance lower than the mod's mininum.

Ni (and to a large extent, Ti) are built exclusively for Temp control mods, which the iJust2 isn't. The reason - AFAIK - is for a) lower resistance of these wires which will draw much more beyond your battery's safety limits, and b) these wires tend to oxidize at higher temperatures, which are very dangerous to your health.

Both these issues are prevented by TC devices, which will limit the power by limitting the max temp the wires can reach. Vaping Ni or Ti on non-TC mods is a bit dangerous, and I would advise anybody who plan on doing so to google the issue a bit and make sure they know what they are doing. Im not at home otherwise I would go look for some links!

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@shaunnadan and @Ezekiel
Reason I'm using my gs tank is i find my ijust 2 tank to powerful and just throws the vapour into my mouth like a beast from hell hahaha. But since I threw my gs tank on. She's a much more controlled beast. I'm actually trying to find another tank for her cause I got the ijust 2 tank now on my tc40w and that stupid rubber air flow on the tank irritates the crap out of me. Hahaha.
 
@shaunnadan and @Ezekiel
Reason I'm using my gs tank is i find my ijust 2 tank to powerful and just throws the vapour into my mouth like a beast from hell hahaha. But since I threw my gs tank on. She's a much more controlled beast. I'm actually trying to find another tank for her cause I got the ijust 2 tank now on my tc40w and that stupid rubber air flow on the tank irritates the crap out of me. Hahaha.
My mistake @Clouds4Days ! Thought you were running the GS with Ni/Ti on the ijust2 battery.... the two devices (tank and mod) of the ijust2 really should've beem split...

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Hi there.
Wanted to find out why can't run the nickel or ti coils.i have a gs tank and run it on my ijust 2 and have been running it for past 2 weeks no problem with the standerd 0.15 nickel coil.

I would not run those on the iJust, as it is a 'fixed' unregulated mod, similar to just a mech mod with some protection. It's not a question of whether the mod would fire them or not, it's a bit more subtle than that.
Any Nickel or Titanium coils requires a mod that supports temperature control based on the type of coil. Nickel metals / coils that are heated above specific thresholds can release poisonous gases which you are obviously going to inhale straight-on. Overheated Titanium builds up a layer of oxidization on the outside which is also deemed poisonous, and this will likely seep into the juice and be vaporised with it. Also a situation you want to avoid.

The only thing in your favor is that the coils likely remained cooler than normally because of the wet wick that keeps the temperature down. I would not do that at all.
I would swap back to Kanthal coils immediately if I were you.

EDIT : If you meant just the iJust 2 tank then that is another story.. I should have checked the other posts methinks. The TC40W only supports Nickel builds for TC as well, so keep that in mind. It also fires at 40W (40J) in TC mode, so you really should start at the lowest temperature if trying to figure what works for you.
When using the iJust Tank with the TC40 mod and the standard coils, switch to wattage (power) mode and start at a lowish wattage, like 10-12W and work your way up / down from there. I have not used the .3 ohm coils, but I understand they produce quite a warm vape. The .5 ohms are sufficient for me, as I usually vape a strong menthol on it.
 
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My mistake @Clouds4Days ! Thought you were running the GS with Ni/Ti on the ijust2 battery.... the two devices (tank and mod) of the ijust2 really should've beem split...
Hahaha
Sorry @Ezekiel but you were right the first time. Hahaha
I think we just getting lost in translation.
So i got my ijust 2 tank on my tc40w and I've put my gs tank with .15 ohm nickel on my ijust 2 battery.
So i should swop them back ?
If I put my ijust 2 tank back with the right battery is there any other decent tank I can run with my ijust 2 battery?
 
Hi @Kuhlkatz , you say it has to do with temp. But if I'm not mistaken the ijust 2 battery only fires 40w (i stand to be corrected) which is what my Istick fires ?
Sorry just checked now they say ijust2 fires between 30 and 80 watts
 
Hi @Kuhlkatz , you say it has to do with temp. But if I'm not mistaken the ijust 2 battery only fires 40w (i stand to be corrected) which is what my Istick fires ?

The snag is that the ijust 2 does not limit the temperature, so will fire the Ti / Ni coils at a full 40W and NOT limit the temperature. So even if the iStick fires at 40W, the moment it picks up that the coil is at the set temperature, it stops firing until the coil temperature reduces to below a certain threshold again. This fire/stop/fire/stop process is repeated, and the TC40W display should indicate 'Temp Protection' when this occurs.

Based on your other question, I would definitely swap the 2 back to the respective mods. iJust tank & battery, and GS back to the TC40W using TC mode. You can also use the iJust tank on the Tc40W in power mode without issues.
 
Apparently Eleaf provides a TC version of the ijust2 tank...I cannot see a difference though. Sorry for hijacking :oops:
 
Apparently Eleaf provides a TC version of the ijust2 tank...I cannot see a difference though. Sorry for hijacking :oops:
They do, but from what I've seen in a few hasty Google searches, it seems it's only the Atomizer.
The standard iJust 2 tank is good, make no mistake ,and TC coils for it is likely a good thing as well, but then these shmucks goes and recommend a best pair with an Eleaf iStick 100W which I know for a fact does not support any form of TC. No wonder the world wants to regulate the crap out of this industry..
http://www.istick.org/ijust-2-tc-atomizer.html

At least the original site indicates that the TC head is compatible with various batteries that support Temperature Control.
http://www.eleafworld.com/ijust-2-atomizer/
 
They do, but from what I've seen in a few hasty Google searches, it seems it's only the Atomizer.
The standard iJust 2 tank is good, make no mistake ,and TC coils for it is likely a good thing as well, but then these shmucks goes and recommend a best pair with an Eleaf iStick 100W which I know for a fact does not support any form of TC. No wonder the world wants to regulate the crap out of this industry..
http://www.istick.org/ijust-2-tc-atomizer.html

At least the original site indicates that the TC head is compatible with various batteries that support Temperature Control.
http://www.eleafworld.com/ijust-2-atomizer/

So it goes...:D
 
If I'm using the standard nickel coil should I only run it in tc mode and not in watts? Sorry for all the questions @Kuhlkatz but gotta learn the right way (safe way) to vape. ?

Lol, no problem with questions. Most guys on here willingly dispose of answers based on own experience and gladly pass on what they learned along their vaping journey.

TL;DR : The intention of Ni and Ti coils are that they are to be used exclusively with mods that support Temperature Control with a specific resistance curve based on the material in use. Stainless Steel also has a specific curve, and is likely the safest option for TC in my biased opinion. Stainless Steel can also be used in normal power mode with no drawbacks, where the other 2 materials have questions around their safety when they are overheated. Most is speculation, and there is no hard scientific proof yet that I am aware of. Most older TC mods that do not allow firmware updates only support Ni, and cannot safely handle Ti.

Let me take a step back and start from the beginning.
From what I know, the initial vape devices used predominantly Kanthal or Nichrome coils to heat the e-liquid that was usually saturated in some wick around the coil, mostly cotton or other fibres for cartridges / cartomizers, and mostly coils wound around Silica Wick for the initial pen-style devices. Kanthal was designed for use in open-air heating elements, had a very high maximum temperature operating range and as a bonus seemed to have the ideal resistance range to use with battery operated devices.
At this stage the batteries did not really produce very much output, so high temperatures was not a huge concern. As long as it could vaporize the nicotine solution, all was good. Stuff evolved quickly and like any industry, it produced some die-hard fans that wanted bigger and better things. More vapour, more flavour, more power. Pipe mods evolved from this, using the much-loved 18650 batteries that we mostly use today, and this lead to builds that started pushing the limits - both of batteries and temperatures the builds were reaching to produce more and more clouds.

Where the average Joe was happily vaping at around 6-8Watts two years ago, some regulated devices available now does not go below even 10 or 15W. Regulated devices above 20W was unheard of and 'no one in his right mind needed all that power' when the first 50W device hit the market.
This ever-growing search for more power sparked off another debate about whether vaping / vaporizing e-liquids at such high temperatures are safe / were still safer than smoking, worse than smoking etc.
Evolv then designed the DNA-40 chip, which was the first to use Ni coils to maintain a given temperature at the coil head. While firing the coil, they monitored the resistance of the coil to determine when it reached a given temperature. If the temperature was reached, the power was reduced or cut, to allow the coil to cool below a certain threshold before power was applied again to maintain the 'perfect' temperature.
When Nickel is heated, the resistance changes in a known proportion based on the temperature, and on a large enough scale that can be accurately measured. Kanthal does not have similar properties, so does not lend itself to temperature control.

The choice of Ni as material was questioned, as some people have Ni allergies and refused to use it. Others said that it could potentially produce poisonous gases above certain temperatures, and questioned its safe use around that. The next best thing to quickly hit the market was Titanium coils, which had similar measurable properties to Ni, but Titanium on the other hand produces an oxide layer when dry-burned, which is also deemed poisonous, so overheating it is a no-no.
So, the latest and next best thing to hit the market for TC, is Stainless Steel coils. Aaaannnnd guess what - there are people that say it's also not 100% safe, as it oxidizes as well. Seems we can never win.

For your own safety, and to ensure we keep other ECIGSSA members alive as long as possible, my recommendation is not to use coils intended for TC devices with a mod or battery that does not support Temperature Control. This is at least until we get concrete proof about how safe Ti and Ni is at higher 'uncontrolled' temperatures. Rather be safe than sorry and only use Kanthal coils in non-TC devices.
 
Rather be safe than sorry and only use Kanthal coils in non-TC devices.
Awesome @Kuhlkatz
Thank you for the advice and all the info.
Really technical stuff going on, actually very scary if you don't know what you doing. The reason I quoted that last bit is actually when I bought my ijust 2 , like I said it has a very powerful tank so I read to use a 0.5ohm coil . So i went to a vape shop in the east (won't mention names) and they gave me a 0.5 titanium coil and said it will work on my ijust 2.
 
Lol, no problem with questions. Most guys on here willingly dispose of answers based on own experience and gladly pass on what they learned along their vaping journey.

TL;DR : The intention of Ni and Ti coils are that they are to be used exclusively with mods that support Temperature Control with a specific resistance curve based on the material in use. Stainless Steel also has a specific curve, and is likely the safest option for TC in my biased opinion. Stainless Steel can also be used in normal power mode with no drawbacks, where the other 2 materials have questions around their safety when they are overheated. Most is speculation, and there is no hard scientific proof yet that I am aware of. Most older TC mods that do not allow firmware updates only support Ni, and cannot safely handle Ti.

Let me take a step back and start from the beginning.
From what I know, the initial vape devices used predominantly Kanthal or Nichrome coils to heat the e-liquid that was usually saturated in some wick around the coil, mostly cotton or other fibres for cartridges / cartomizers, and mostly coils wound around Silica Wick for the initial pen-style devices. Kanthal was designed for use in open-air heating elements, had a very high maximum temperature operating range and as a bonus seemed to have the ideal resistance range to use with battery operated devices.
At this stage the batteries did not really produce very much output, so high temperatures was not a huge concern. As long as it could vaporize the nicotine solution, all was good. Stuff evolved quickly and like any industry, it produced some die-hard fans that wanted bigger and better things. More vapour, more flavour, more power. Pipe mods evolved from this, using the much-loved 18650 batteries that we mostly use today, and this lead to builds that started pushing the limits - both of batteries and temperatures the builds were reaching to produce more and more clouds.

Where the average Joe was happily vaping at around 6-8Watts two years ago, some regulated devices available now does not go below even 10 or 15W. Regulated devices above 20W was unheard of and 'no one in his right mind needed all that power' when the first 50W device hit the market.
This ever-growing search for more power sparked off another debate about whether vaping / vaporizing e-liquids at such high temperatures are safe / were still safer than smoking, worse than smoking etc.
Evolv then designed the DNA-40 chip, which was the first to use Ni coils to maintain a given temperature at the coil head. While firing the coil, they monitored the resistance of the coil to determine when it reached a given temperature. If the temperature was reached, the power was reduced or cut, to allow the coil to cool below a certain threshold before power was applied again to maintain the 'perfect' temperature.
When Nickel is heated, the resistance changes in a known proportion based on the temperature, and on a large enough scale that can be accurately measured. Kanthal does not have similar properties, so does not lend itself to temperature control.

The choice of Ni as material was questioned, as some people have Ni allergies and refused to use it. Others said that it could potentially produce poisonous gases above certain temperatures, and questioned its safe use around that. The next best thing to quickly hit the market was Titanium coils, which had similar measurable properties to Ni, but Titanium on the other hand produces an oxide layer when dry-burned, which is also deemed poisonous, so overheating it is a no-no.
So, the latest and next best thing to hit the market for TC, is Stainless Steel coils. Aaaannnnd guess what - there are people that say it's also not 100% safe, as it oxidizes as well. Seems we can never win.

For your own safety, and to ensure we keep other ECIGSSA members alive as long as possible, my recommendation is not to use coils intended for TC devices with a mod or battery that does not support Temperature Control. This is at least until we get concrete proof about how safe Ti and Ni is at higher 'uncontrolled' temperatures. Rather be safe than sorry and only use Kanthal coils in non-TC devices.
Great write up! For me the irony is that TC has effectively brought us back to lower (and safer) power.
 
Great write up! For me the irony is that TC has effectively brought us back to lower (and safer) power.

@Andre, I fully agree on the safety aspect, as that was the whole intention behind the TC move. Unfortunately it has also split up the opinions on the materials, almost negating the whole intention of TC.
 
Is change in ohm fine after wicking and juicing?

Built at 1.42ohm
Then wicked and added juice now it reads 1.18ohms.

Is it safe to use?
 
Is change in ohm fine after wicking and juicing?

Built at 1.42ohm
Then wicked and added juice now it reads 1.18ohms.

Is it safe to use?

Make sure the posts are tightened properly.

Usually it does change when you alter the coil, squeezing and moving it around. The wick and juice also have an effect But not that big a jump.
 
When rebuilding stock OCC heads what determines the impedance of your coil build ?
 
When rebuilding stock OCC heads what determines the impedance of your coil build ?
"impedance"? You mean "resistance"? If so, that is determined by the number of wraps, the ID (inner diameter) of the coil, the length of the coil legs, the thickness of the wire used and the type of wire used. A resistance meter is very handy for this. To get an idea of how to reach your intended resistance, this site is very useful: http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp
 
@Andre

Thanks, I am from the AV industry, sorry, anything with ohms, we talk about impedance, but I meant resistance. Thanks for the link, will definitely check it out once I have all my bits and bops ready for building
 
@Andre

Thanks, I am from the AV industry, sorry, anything with ohms, we talk about impedance, but I meant resistance. Thanks for the link, will definitely check it out once I have all my bits and bops ready for building
Well, grammatically they mean more or less the same I suppose. All the best with your building journey. Do shout if you have any questions.
 
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