took probably 2min to do.
Subtank Mini dry hits
- Thread starter LandyMan
- Start date
Your comment made my day. It proved that there are still ignorant 'vapers' on the forum. @RIEFY was giving advice, which is completely relevant. I've done the same wicking method, and build, without opening the juice channels and it's awesome. Just more awesome if you open up that channel a bit. Learn to take advice
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I have never had a dry hit and have NOT modified my RBA base. The secret as per usual is the wicking.
The guy offered advice and his experience and you tell him its irrelevant.
It might help someone that is stuggling, we like helping ppl.
That build specifically the wicking method works and works well. Opening the channels more is mostly irrelevant.
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Without starting a flame war. I think the point being made was with the increased flow being so much the wicking method does not matter since any wick will be sufficient since there is so much access to the juice.
The other to comments just said we have not needed to modify the channels.
@RIEFY 's advice was not irrelevant at all
Sent while vaping on Okkum my Smok M80
The other to comments just said we have not needed to modify the channels.
@RIEFY 's advice was not irrelevant at all
Sent while vaping on Okkum my Smok M80
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Sounds dodgy "stroking the mini" 
Lol stroking the Mini 
Thanks @RIEFY, your wick pic helped me - i am soon going to try the RBA base for the Subtank Mini. Have only up till now tried the stock coils. I like that pancake you have there. Looks good
I will keep that in mind
But the question is will you offer to stroke my Mini, because it is currently unstroked - lol
Thanks @RIEFY, your wick pic helped me - i am soon going to try the RBA base for the Subtank Mini. Have only up till now tried the stock coils. I like that pancake you have there. Looks good
I will keep that in mind
But the question is will you offer to stroke my Mini, because it is currently unstroked - lol
we strokem to get the jooses flowing
BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA SILVER YOU NAUGHTY BOYLol stroking the Mini
Thanks @RIEFY, your wick pic helped me - i am soon going to try the RBA base for the Subtank Mini. Have only up till now tried the stock coils. I like that pancake you have there. Looks good
I will keep that in mind
But the question is will you offer to stroke my Mini, because it is currently unstroked - lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
we strokem to get the jooses flowing
Classic!!!
We always need wider channels even if we like the draw tight
With the mini just like our learned friend @RIEFY
So Like with a Steak knife or similar or one of them blunt jobs?
steak knife yes
blunt job wont work.
My first post.
Wicking is def. the main thing. Counter-intuitively, the wick has to be TIGHT in the coil (compared to what I usually do on rda, anyway), and the tails of the wick must be very short, even though the picture in the manual shows them being like 5x longer than necessary. The ends of the wick 'bow tie' should only be touching the inside of the cylinder. You should trim them before you put the cylinder on. I have not had any wicking problems when doing it like this, and I have not altered my juice channels.
Wick Troubleshooting
If the wick is Too tight, obviously the wick will burn due to lack of juice. Similarly, if it is too loose, there are not enough fibres to carry the necessary amount of juice to cool the coil. In the second case, the juice burns but the coil stays wet and white, leading to much confusion. The third scenario is from an even looser wick (not fully touching the inside of the coil), and in that case the wick will be burning even if it is mostly saturated.
Juice Choice
Second, the juice, and I mean everything about it, not just PG/VG ratio will have a large effect. Even though your juice may be pure vg, it can still be soaking the wick and yet you can taste terrible burnt juice. I think some flavors just do not work well in a subohm setting without the ability to build or wick specifically for that juice. I am posting now because I was having this problem, the new juice I bought simply would not vape without burning (0.5 occ and rba in subtank mini on a mech mod) while my previous juice ran perfectly in it.
Cotton
The Japanese cotton is much harder to use than regular organic cotton balls. The fiberes are not aligned so the cotton can disolve in your hands, and its much harder to pull through a coil. I have had much more success using organic cotton balls, allowing me to get a strong, dense (but not too tight) bundle of fibres, all aligned together for most efficient wicking. It is a completely different animal than a Japanese cotton wick, which is a sandwich of unaligned fibres, and the juice is not being compelled to flow in any direction. Just a personal choice I guess.
I will be getting a box mod capable of subohm soon, but even when I am using a low battery, the tendency for bad juice to burn even though its wicking just fine still exists. Like I said, I used one juice and it worked great on occ and rba, the next juice i bought only works on rba (barely) after I refined my wicking through numerous trials. Some juices just burn so easily that it seems like its a dry hit but its not, its just a burnt juice hit. Thats probably why nickel temp control is so handy on the subtanks, so you can set the max temp below both the burning point of the wick and the juice.
Wicking is def. the main thing. Counter-intuitively, the wick has to be TIGHT in the coil (compared to what I usually do on rda, anyway), and the tails of the wick must be very short, even though the picture in the manual shows them being like 5x longer than necessary. The ends of the wick 'bow tie' should only be touching the inside of the cylinder. You should trim them before you put the cylinder on. I have not had any wicking problems when doing it like this, and I have not altered my juice channels.
Wick Troubleshooting
If the wick is Too tight, obviously the wick will burn due to lack of juice. Similarly, if it is too loose, there are not enough fibres to carry the necessary amount of juice to cool the coil. In the second case, the juice burns but the coil stays wet and white, leading to much confusion. The third scenario is from an even looser wick (not fully touching the inside of the coil), and in that case the wick will be burning even if it is mostly saturated.
Juice Choice
Second, the juice, and I mean everything about it, not just PG/VG ratio will have a large effect. Even though your juice may be pure vg, it can still be soaking the wick and yet you can taste terrible burnt juice. I think some flavors just do not work well in a subohm setting without the ability to build or wick specifically for that juice. I am posting now because I was having this problem, the new juice I bought simply would not vape without burning (0.5 occ and rba in subtank mini on a mech mod) while my previous juice ran perfectly in it.
Cotton
The Japanese cotton is much harder to use than regular organic cotton balls. The fiberes are not aligned so the cotton can disolve in your hands, and its much harder to pull through a coil. I have had much more success using organic cotton balls, allowing me to get a strong, dense (but not too tight) bundle of fibres, all aligned together for most efficient wicking. It is a completely different animal than a Japanese cotton wick, which is a sandwich of unaligned fibres, and the juice is not being compelled to flow in any direction. Just a personal choice I guess.
I will be getting a box mod capable of subohm soon, but even when I am using a low battery, the tendency for bad juice to burn even though its wicking just fine still exists. Like I said, I used one juice and it worked great on occ and rba, the next juice i bought only works on rba (barely) after I refined my wicking through numerous trials. Some juices just burn so easily that it seems like its a dry hit but its not, its just a burnt juice hit. Thats probably why nickel temp control is so handy on the subtanks, so you can set the max temp below both the burning point of the wick and the juice.
Thx for the +s bros.
I also want to say that the subtank (mini) goes through more juice than I have ever seen an atomizer use. I think I was probably getting just as many hits and using half the liquid with my rdas, with similar builds. I know that should be impossible though..I guess the vapor is just really dense.
I also want to say that the subtank (mini) goes through more juice than I have ever seen an atomizer use. I think I was probably getting just as many hits and using half the liquid with my rdas, with similar builds. I know that should be impossible though..I guess the vapor is just really dense.
Yeah, My Subtank on .5 OCC is a real Juice Pig I can clear 2 to 3 full tanks a day... Maybe its just me though... The Thing is permanently stuck to my face Need a Subtank Face Graft...
I can clear 2 to 3 full tanks a day... Maybe its just me though... The Thing is permanently stuck to my face Need a Subtank Face Graft...The OCC coils sure do live up to the title of "disposable." If you change juice, let the coil dry, etc...the cotton clogs up and it will not wick anymore. I have not tried boiling them, since the rba base works great for me with most juices. I am just happy enough with the rba, until I get a temp control mod, at least. Even then I will probably just build with nickel on the rba.
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