Ask the Modmaster

[Eric Parlin]

I understand quite a few people on here got to know Rob quite well as he built Reosmods.

I've decided to open up a thread here where you can ask me about anything. I'd prefer to discuss Reos Mods and what we are doing going forward. But, you can also ask me personal questions to get to know me better, or even my opinion on U.S.A politics.

Post your questions here and I'll get back with you as quick as I can,

 

[Silver]

This is super @Eric Parlin
And thanks for creating this thread
It is so awesome to be in touch with the modmaster and know that if you have a question that you cant find an answer to you can ask the modmaster himself

 

[Silver]

I have a question @Eric Parlin

What would you suggest the typical Reosmod "cleaning routine" should be?

Hopefully you can also touch on the following:

• How frequent should one clean?
• Is a warm soapy bath and rinse ok or are there any other suggested procedures?
• Any parts that we must pay more attention to?
• Must we undo the black delrin cover that covers the fire assembly?
• Should we undo the negative spring and take it out?

I think pointers in this regard would help a lot for Reonauts, especially newer less experienced ones - and me - because I am not very experienced in this

 

[Silver]

Just a general question for the modmaster that was brought up recently in the P67 threads

@Eric Parlin , why are there still the standard profile Reos available?
One would think a low profile LP is better because it offers way more atty options
Are there any benefits of the standard profile Reos for the smaller atties?

Are the standard profile ones still popular?

PS - i have three standard profile Reos with standard RM2s and I am very happy. Been vaping them for about 3.5 years - but just asking the question out of curiosity.

 

[Eric Parlin]

Just a general question for the modmaster that was brought up recently in the P67 threads

@Eric Parlin , why are there still the standard profile Reos available?
One would think a low profile LP is better because it offers way more atty options
Are there any benefits of the standard profile Reos for the smaller atties?

Are the standard profile ones still popular?

PS - i have three standard profile Reos with standard RM2s and I am very happy. Been vaping them for about 3.5 years - but just asking the question out of curiosity.

Standard profiles are still available only because we still have a few left in stock. Rob had not built a new Standard profile in the last year. So, the 10 Grands that we have left are it. After that, no more standard profile Grands. We have a few more Standard profile Mini's, but we are also done making those as well.

The advantage to the LP is that more atty's fit on it. For people who still use a smaller atty, like the Reo RM2, the standard profile allows the atty to be a bit recessed into the body, providing a more clean look for the atty.

Just like everything else, there are some die-hard fans of the standard profile Reos. There are also quite a few people who originally bough Standard profiles and have had them converted to LP's over the years.

We have looked at making a Grand that is a flat top, like the P67. Still a few technical issues to resolve, but it is a possibility in the future. . .

 

[GregF]

We have looked at making a Grand that is a flat top, like the P67. Still a few technical issues to resolve, but it is a possibility in the future. . .

This would be great

 

[Eric Parlin]

I have a question @Eric Parlin

What would you suggest the typical Reosmod "cleaning routine" should be?

Hopefully you can also touch on the following:

• How frequent should one clean?
• Is a warm soapy bath and rinse ok or are there any other suggested procedures?
• Any parts that we must pay more attention to?
• Must we undo the black delrin cover that covers the fire assembly?
• Should we undo the negative spring and take it out?

I think pointers in this regard would help a lot for Reonauts, especially newer less experienced ones - and me - because I am not very experienced in this

Wow - great question @Silver !

I would recommend a thorough clean about once every two to three month under normal usage. When I give a mod a Spa treatment, here's my procedure:

1. Completely strip the mod. Remove the bottle and tube, the delrin (black plastic) insert, the positive contact, the button, and the spring. The only thing I don't take out is the 510 connection, because that is pressed into the mod and not designed to come out.
2. Once apart, I prefer to just use warm water on the body. There's nothing wrong with a bit of soap, I just find it is not always necessary. Some people also have used 91% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) with good results. For tough to reach areas, either a toothbrush or a Q-Tip works great. Once washed, i just use a paper towel to dry off the water and get ready to re-assemble. If you have access to compressed air, a quick blow or two through the 510 area is the best way to remove any left-over water.
3. The back side of the delrin insert and the bottom of the spring are areas that some people don't do a good job of keeping clean. From the Spa treatments that I have done over the last few months, those areas tend to have dried juice and are the worst to get cleaned up.
4. While apart, I inspect the button and the spring for any wear. I also make sure the positive contact is clean (with no black buildup on it) and re-apply some DeoxIt Gold or Noalox to the part of the contact that actually strikes the battery. (NOTE: During a Spa treatment, all of these parts are replaced as part of the treatment)
5. Once done with everything, I reassemble everything and get back to squonking.

This cleaning typically takes me about 1/2 hour. I have been able to extend the time between cleans by just wiping down the interior and exterior of the mod with a wet paper towel every day or two (without removing anything other than the battery). But, sometimes life is busy and I skip the daily work, prompting the need for the deep clean on a more frequent basis.

 

[Silver]

Thanks for the replies @Eric Parlin - that is most helpful

My Reos are certainly due for a clean soon.
I will follow the instructions and if I get stuck I will post here.

 

[Silver]

Just a question, @Eric Parlin and any other hardened Reonauts (@Andre, @Alex, @GregF, @Petrus, @Rob Fisher )

How necessary is it to remove the black delrin cap on the Grand? And the negative spring?

I was always under the impression that its not a good idea to remove the black delrin cover unless its absolutely necessary, owing to the screw that holds it in place, which apparently can be over tightened and can damage things?

Also, i dont think i remember what its like behind that delrin cap and the fire assembly. I did replace the firing plate once but i cant recall if it was tricky and whether there were any tricks

Am wondering if there are any videos that point out the pitfalls of this, if any.

If my Reos are working fine is there any point removing the delrin part? One of my Reos has a slightly "sticky" fire button on occasion which i suspect is some juice build up in the fire button area, so maybe that one needs a proper strip and clean. But do you recommend regular full stripping like this ?

 

[Petrus]

@Silver, I gave my Reo's a good old bath this afternoon with some Sunlight Liquid a toothbrush and luke warm water. They are as good as new. Me myself don't like to fiddle with the delrin insert. Rinse and dry, some electric grease and we are ready to rumble.

 

[GregF]

@Silver you say you have NEVER taken off the delrin insert. Maybe you should at least give it a complete once over. Like @Eric Parlin said, the most problems (or dirtiest problems) they have at the spa is under the delrin insert. I am with @Petrus for most of my pit stops though, but every now and again I will do a complete dismantle and clean.
Yes you are right about the screw that holds the delrin insert in place, DONT OVER TIGHTEN IT or you will stuff the thread up. It does not need to be that tight anyway, if you tighten it up with your fingers on the screwdriver and not the palm of your hand you should be fine.

 

[Silver]

@Silver you say you have NEVER taken off the delrin insert. Maybe you should at least give it a complete once over. Like @Eric Parlin said, the most problems (or dirtiest problems) they have at the spa is under the delrin insert. I am with @Petrus for most of my pit stops though, but every now and again I will do a complete dismantle and clean.
Yes you are right about the screw that holds the delrin insert in place, DONT OVER TIGHTEN IT or you will stuff the thread up. It does not need to be that tight anyway, if you tighten it up with your fingers on the screwdriver and not the palm of your hand you should be fine.

Thanks for the tip on the finger tightening of that screw @GregF

I once did remove the Delrin part on one of my Reos to replace the firing mechanism - but havent done that on any of my other Reos - in about 3 years. They still work fine. But I am thinking I will give each one a proper strip and clean - will do it one by one.

 

[GregF]

I got a question that maybe someone could answer:-
Why is there a step on the P67 for the bottle to rest on with the spring being slightly lower?
The Grand does not have it.
I guess it is to allow for the locking mechanism on the P67 so the spring is not under too much compression when locked?????
@Eric Parlin or any other Reo boff?

 

[Eric Parlin]

I got a question that maybe someone could answer:-
Why is there a step on the P67 for the bottle to rest on with the spring being slightly lower?
The Grand does not have it.
I guess it is to allow for the locking mechanism on the P67 so the spring is not under too much compression when locked?????
@Eric Parlin or any other Reo boff?

It's actually the other way around Greg - the bottle height is the same as what was in the Grands and we had to remove more material at the base of the body to get the battery to fit properly in the P67. That is due to the addition of the battery terminal on the P67, which makes the top of the battery area of the P67 lower than the top of the battery area on a Grand.

Does that make any sense at all to anyone besides me?

 

[GregF]

Aaah thanks, yes it does make sense now.

 

[Silver]

I had to go look at @Rob Fisher 's latest Gold Vein P67 pic to see what you were talking about

Makes perfect sense @Eric Parlin

 

[Silver]

Reo stripping time

Just hope I don't run into any problems...

 

[Silver]

This Reo is now fairly well stripped for its first time in over 3 years.

Am quite surprised it looks rather clean inside

Even inside the delrin plate

But there is a problem! The screw for the spring doesn't want to budge and now I think the screw itself is pretty stripped. My screwdriver is not catching it. Damn.

I feel so bad now. Not sure what to do. I can just leave it like that but I wanted to take out the spring to clean that area.

Any ideas hardened Reonauts? @Alex , @Andre , @GregF ?

@Eric Parlin ?

 

[Silver]

I found the following thread on ECF
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/tight-spring-screw.596031/

Seems that Spring screw has presented problems to others

Will be trying some of what they say and report back

Damn man, I just hope I can get this working

 

[GregF]

This Reo is now fairly well stripped for its first time in over 3 years.

Am quite surprised it looks rather clean inside

Even inside the delrin plate

But there is a problem! The screw for the spring doesn't want to budge and now I think the screw itself is pretty stripped. My screwdriver is not catching it. Damn.

I feel so bad now. Not sure what to do. I can just leave it like that but I wanted to take out the spring to clean that area.

Any ideas hardened Reonauts? @Alex , @Andre , @GregF ?

@Eric Parlin ?

Yup that head looks a bit stuffed. Did you slip with the screwdriver @Silver?
There are a couple of things you can try to get it out but before I jump in head first lets see what @Eric Parlin says.

 

[GregF]

This Reo is now fairly well stripped for its first time in over 3 years.

Am quite surprised it looks rather clean inside

Even inside the delrin plate

But there is a problem! The screw for the spring doesn't want to budge and now I think the screw itself is pretty stripped. My screwdriver is not catching it. Damn.

I feel so bad now. Not sure what to do. I can just leave it like that but I wanted to take out the spring to clean that area.

Any ideas hardened Reonauts? @Alex , @Andre , @GregF ?

@Eric Parlin ?

And yes it does look quite clean under there. No leaking, no juice build up.

 

[Silver]

Ok I managed to get it out. I followed the thread on ECF where you knock the spring base plate anti clockwise to loosen.

Then I applied Q20. Lol.

My wife thinks I'm mad. But anyway.

So it loosened a bit but the screw was finished, so I got a flathead under there and twisted and pulled the plate off like Rob o Neil said in that thread. It came off.

Just hope I haven't damaged anything else or if there are threads in the body of the Reo where that screw goes in. Will have to put in a new spring. I think I should have one.

Thanks for the support @GregF

 

[GregF]

That whole is not threaded. The screw screws into the spring. So you have not damaged anything else.
If you have a new screw and a spring you should be good to go.
Remember to put some Deoxit under the spring before you put the new one back.

 

[Silver]

Ok it's all back together and all clean.

New spring in. @GregF I didn't have deoxit gold so I put some of @Alex 's dielectric grease which I believe is similar to Noalox. I need to get some deoxit.

Anyhow. All back together and am going to test if it works. I didn't overtighten the spring screw and used a slightly larger screwdriver and held it in firm.

Hoping it all goes ok.

 

[Silver]

And ....

We have lift off!

Reo Silver is back in action and firing beautifully !!!

Whoooohoooo!

Am so relieved. Thanks for your support @GregF !

Decided to celebrate by cracking open the bottle of @Sir Vape 's Rogue tobacco that I got many moons ago. Long overdue. Will vape more and report back soon.

Aaaah - I can relax now. Hehe