Dead Siren 22mm

Spongebob

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Need some help from the technical minded vapers recently traded a Siren 22mm from someone (brand new) that somehow came DOA? Worked 5 minutes and then started with the dreaded "no atomizer" on all my mods? Tinkered around but could not find anything? Tried someone else's advice and used thicker wire and swapped the grub screws and it worked for a day and a half and then started acting up again and has now passed on

I have checked 510 screw, coil seating, grub screws, everything i can think off, but no luck even had a multi meter on it, but could not find anything even tried running coil wire directly from one grub screw to the other, but nada



Is there anything anybody else can think of that i can check., because in all my years of vaping, the siren 22 is the best vape i have ever hadand if at all possible i would REALLY like to get her back to life?

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I think these two parts are either screwed into each other. Unscrewing it will be a nightmare without a vice or some sort and a wrench of some sort.
its too complecated to be machined as one part and im dumping the idea of press fit.
 

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I think these two parts are either screwed into each other. Unscrewing it will be a nightmare without a vice or some sort and a wrench of some sort.
its too complecated to be machined as one part and im dumping the idea of press fit.

I think the threads are gunked or something, but thats my take on it.
 
Ok cool thanx

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other reasoning I have on this is .I replaced a glass on a vega tank for someone. Hes tank completely dissasembles and on mine I can't replace the glass because its screwed in too tight and had to slip a hdpe tube over so I can use the tank.
 
I have read about it because I never owned one. Check for a screw underneath the base.
they said it should disassemble after doing this.
also highlighted where I think the problem would be with yellow arrows2019-06-02 17.56.27.png
 
It looks like its most likley where the bottom arrow is that your problem is coming from.
hope you get this Atty sorted.
 
other reasoning I have on this is .I replaced a glass on a vega tank for someone. Hes tank completely dissasembles and on mine I can't replace the glass because its screwed in too tight and had to slip a hdpe tube over so I can use the tank.
Dont understand

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I have read about it because I never owned one. Check for a screw underneath the base.
they said it should disassemble after doing this.
also highlighted where I think the problem would be with yellow arrowsView attachment 168033
Where exactly will the screw be and where did you read this

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Dont understand

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ok. a friend has a tank twisp vega tank. it completely comes apart so if his glass breaks, which it did. the glass can be replaced.
I also have a vega tank that doesnt come apart.or maybe I have not tried hard enough.
the point is your Atty base should come apart.the question is how?

there isnt pics its just descusions that are really vague but they all say the same thing. it comes apart.
 
Nah i don't see anything either screwed in or press fitted only way will be a vice and pliers maybe I'm just crazy enough to try that but i have another idea......

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Nah i don't see anything either screwed in or press fitted only way will be a vice and pliers maybe I'm just crazy enough to try that but i have another idea......

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heat?
I won't recommend it.
try laying it in a solvent like alcohol overnight.
 
I am still wondering how can a solid piece of metal or two pieces of metal stuck/riveted/screwed together cannot conduct electricity.

in this case if theres threads/pressed fitted it could have a buildup or even oxidation.
same like when a lead acid battery builds up on the terminal.
at least thats my theory.
and if im wrong I would myself want to know the answer to that same question
 
Me thinks this is what it looks like inside, and somewhere in between should be something that connects the two halfs to create continuity, which now obviously does not connect so seeing that i used it, the short time it worked, with the airflow fully open, me is gonna drill a hole in the middle somewhere and screw a screw in that should and the operative word is "should" connect the two parts again

Any thoughts gents
e0e88ae211f9b1ef410cdcecda2f3d06.jpg


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first see if where you start losing continuity.
so start at the pin and move your way up to the post
 
Me thinks this is what it looks like inside, and somewhere in between should be something that connects the two halfs to create continuity, which now obviously does not connect so seeing that i used it, the short time it worked, with the airflow fully open, me is gonna drill a hole in the middle somewhere and screw a screw in that should and the operative word is "should" connect the two parts again

Any thoughts gents
e0e88ae211f9b1ef410cdcecda2f3d06.jpg


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please wait till tomorrow, I will try to figure this out or at least come up with a less destructive workaround ;). This problem is driving me nuts, if you were in cape town I would have come to you to see it with my own eyes. @Gandalf Vapes any suggestions?
 
please wait till tomorrow, I will try to figure this out or at least come up with a less destructive workaround ;). This problem is driving me nuts, if you were in cape town I would have come to you to see it with my own eyes. @Gandalf Vapes any suggestions?
I don't see any other way but will give u the benefit of the doubt

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forgot to reply to this thread, I opened up mine and I can see the 510 thread is stuck to the post, almost like they are one piece.
I suggest put it in an oven for an hour at 180-degree Celcius. There is a small plastic like insulator inside the 510 thread, but I think its made to resist high temperatures so shouldn't get damage.
 
Played around yesterday and sort of got it up and runninghere's the thing.... It only works 100% on my ijust s battery moment i take it off the ijust and stick it onto another mod, fires ones or twice and then conks still baffles the #@% outa me...

I'm leaning toward either sub standard metal, or the paint used or something similar causing a weak connection ur guess is as good as mine

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Played around yesterday and sort of got it up and runninghere's the thing.... It only works 100% on my ijust s battery moment i take it off the ijust and stick it onto another mod, fires ones or twice and then conks still baffles the #@% outa me...

I'm leaning toward either sub standard metal, or the paint used or something similar causing a weak connection ur guess is as good as mine

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@Spongebob , when assembled how far does the positive pin protrude at the bottom?

I could run one tank I had when I started on the ijust S but nothing on Pico, problem seemed to have been that the positive pin was a bit shortish or too long thereby adjusting too little/too much. Maybe see if this can solve it,? Think I added a small washer to lift it a bit. Gap will kill you if you have OCD but at least you will have the flavour Monster going. My current ones protrude nearly a mm .

Just an idea, but when it’s solved please publish for the rest of us that have the Srens, you never know when we will need it.
 
Played around yesterday and sort of got it up and runninghere's the thing.... It only works 100% on my ijust s battery moment i take it off the ijust and stick it onto another mod, fires ones or twice and then conks still baffles the #@% outa me...

I'm leaning toward either sub standard metal, or the paint used or something similar causing a weak connection ur guess is as good as mine

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glad to know its somewhat working now. Can u do another continuity check and tell what happens now?
 
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