My reo clone recently had a shave, enabling me to fit 22mm attys (so it is more like a re grand LP now).
It also means I can fit my volt drop meter. But I didnt have to. I could taste that my 22mm attys werent performing (built at 0.5 and 0.35ohms currently). Just felt a bit flat and pap.
**note** this wasnt really an issue with a chalice built at closer to 1ohms...I only noticed it when going lower.
Investigating hat firmly on (multimeter in hand) and the problem was easy to spot once I had burnt my finger on the damn negative spring. It was so hot it was acting like another coil.
**more investigating*** maybe crap coating, sandpaper out, sanded, rechecked, nope, still rubbish.
Went to the reosmods site and stuck two spring in my shopping cart, a pruple button cover and a small vial of noaloax, $16 in total..no problem.
Shipping, an additional $23...ok kak idea.
Into the box of imagination we go and I pulled out some 0.4mm ni200, quad twisted it, wrapped it around the top of the spring and the bottom of the spring.
Bob, meet Mary your uncle, because now it kicks like a mule and the spring isnt heating up.
Moral of the story: the spring is kak and adds resistance..once your atty resistance goes low it makes a bigger difference and starts sapping away battery power.
If anybody is interested, my multimeter leads measure 0.17ohm by themselves. Measuring the spring from top of spring to bottom of screw on the reo clone was 0.24ohm, so an additional 0.07ohm at no load.
The kui measured a remarkable 0.19ohm from top of spring to delrin screw (spring+body resistance)...so only 0.02ohm added.
The modified reo clone spring now measures 0.2ohm from top of spring to delrin screw (spring+body resistance)...so a bit worse than the kui but not enough to notice when vaping.
Happy days!
It also means I can fit my volt drop meter. But I didnt have to. I could taste that my 22mm attys werent performing (built at 0.5 and 0.35ohms currently). Just felt a bit flat and pap.
**note** this wasnt really an issue with a chalice built at closer to 1ohms...I only noticed it when going lower.
Investigating hat firmly on (multimeter in hand) and the problem was easy to spot once I had burnt my finger on the damn negative spring. It was so hot it was acting like another coil.
**more investigating*** maybe crap coating, sandpaper out, sanded, rechecked, nope, still rubbish.
Went to the reosmods site and stuck two spring in my shopping cart, a pruple button cover and a small vial of noaloax, $16 in total..no problem.
Shipping, an additional $23...ok kak idea.
Into the box of imagination we go and I pulled out some 0.4mm ni200, quad twisted it, wrapped it around the top of the spring and the bottom of the spring.
Bob, meet Mary your uncle, because now it kicks like a mule and the spring isnt heating up.
Moral of the story: the spring is kak and adds resistance..once your atty resistance goes low it makes a bigger difference and starts sapping away battery power.
If anybody is interested, my multimeter leads measure 0.17ohm by themselves. Measuring the spring from top of spring to bottom of screw on the reo clone was 0.24ohm, so an additional 0.07ohm at no load.
The kui measured a remarkable 0.19ohm from top of spring to delrin screw (spring+body resistance)...so only 0.02ohm added.
The modified reo clone spring now measures 0.2ohm from top of spring to delrin screw (spring+body resistance)...so a bit worse than the kui but not enough to notice when vaping.
Happy days!
