Dry Burn advice

[Bear_Vapes]

I recently started building my own coils & I have to say its easy I'm liking it.

My question is after you dry burn your coils you dip it into a cup of water to wash out the gunk, is it safe to submerge the posts under water?

Is it safe to wash the deck with water when cleaning?

How to dry burn nichrome (Ni80) properly?

 

[Faheem777]

I recently started building my own coils & I have to say its easy I'm liking it.

My question is after you dry burn your coils you dip it into a cup of water to wash out the gunk, is it safe to submerge the posts under water?

Is it safe to wash the deck with water when cleaning?

How to dry burn nichrome (Ni80) properly?

From my experience, it's perfectly fine. I rinse the coil and deck under running water after a dry burn. Just make sure it's completely dry afterwards, especially in the post holes.

 

[Bear_Vapes]

Alright thanks

 

[Raindance]

I recently started building my own coils & I have to say its easy I'm liking it.

My question is after you dry burn your coils you dip it into a cup of water to wash out the gunk, is it safe to submerge the posts under water?

Is it safe to wash the deck with water when cleaning?

How to dry burn nichrome (Ni80) properly?

@Bear_Vapes , I have read here somewhere that high nickel content wire should not be dry burnt because it causes Nickel Oxide which apparently could contain some health issues. I will search for the thread and post it once found.

Regards

 

[Raindance]

Found it!


Nickel. Nickel is the original TC wire. It has quite low basic resistivity (0.75 Ohms per meter for a 26 AWG Ni wire, which will give 0.056 Ohm on a single 8-wrap 2mm ID coil), and therefore Ni coils will almost always be very low in resistance. For this reason you won’t often see commercial Ni coils other than single coils, and usually with many wraps. Because of the low resistance, you will almost always see Ni coils changing in resistance quite a bit during the initial few vapes, before it settles. Nickel is also a pain to work with - it is very soft, and therefore it is very easy to deform a coil when installing it. Finally, Ni can form oxides at higher temperatures (usually NiO2), which are extremely toxic when inhaled. For this reason, Nickel should not / cannot ever be used in non-TC (power) mode, when the temperature of the coil isn’t controlled, since it can very easily reach a high enough temperature to form toxic oxides. For the same reason, you cannot pulse your Ni coils when building them, as they might form an oxide layer just by pulsing (when they are not covered in juice). Therefore, Ni coils will almost always be built as spaced coils, which generally does not need pulsing to remove hot-spots and to get the coil ready. If you are building Ni coils, do so with moderate spacing, and do not under any circumstances fire your mod before they’re wicked and juiced, and do not ever run it in a non-TC mod or in non-TC mode.

Original thread: https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/#post-306844

Regards

 

[Bear_Vapes]

Found it!


Nickel. Nickel is the original TC wire. It has quite low basic resistivity (0.75 Ohms per meter for a 26 AWG Ni wire, which will give 0.056 Ohm on a single 8-wrap 2mm ID coil), and therefore Ni coils will almost always be very low in resistance. For this reason you won’t often see commercial Ni coils other than single coils, and usually with many wraps. Because of the low resistance, you will almost always see Ni coils changing in resistance quite a bit during the initial few vapes, before it settles. Nickel is also a pain to work with - it is very soft, and therefore it is very easy to deform a coil when installing it. Finally, Ni can form oxides at higher temperatures (usually NiO2), which are extremely toxic when inhaled. For this reason, Nickel should not / cannot ever be used in non-TC (power) mode, when the temperature of the coil isn’t controlled, since it can very easily reach a high enough temperature to form toxic oxides. For the same reason, you cannot pulse your Ni coils when building them, as they might form an oxide layer just by pulsing (when they are not covered in juice). Therefore, Ni coils will almost always be built as spaced coils, which generally does not need pulsing to remove hot-spots and to get the coil ready. If you are building Ni coils, do so with moderate spacing, and do not under any circumstances fire your mod before they’re wicked and juiced, and do not ever run it in a non-TC mod or in non-TC mode.

Original thread: https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/#post-306844

Regards

Im using Ni80 and from what I read its meant fot power mode and not tc. Ni200 pure nickle has the bad stuff. Il definitely look into this more.

 

[Raindance]

@Bear_Vapes . Found another more informative thread specific to Ni80. I'm learning something new every day...

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/ni80-dos-and-donts.t24083/

Regards

 

[Caveman]

I recently started building my own coils & I have to say its easy I'm liking it.

My question is after you dry burn your coils you dip it into a cup of water to wash out the gunk, is it safe to submerge the posts under water?

Is it safe to wash the deck with water when cleaning?

How to dry burn nichrome (Ni80) properly?

I've been dry burning it much the same as Kanthal, I just don't keep the power on it quite as long and I start lower. Let it heat up, dunk into water and repeat until clean. Haven't had any issues with the wire not lasting or tasting funny

 

[kev mac]

@Bear_Vapes . Found another more informative thread specific to Ni80. I'm learning something new every day...

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/ni80-dos-and-donts.t24083/

Regards

I have given up on nickel wire and like many now use S.S. for any temp control.As far as nichrome I have mostly used it in higher gauges for Clapton coils.Dan at DJLsb labs whom I trust for vape advice said in a recent video that in his opinion the difference in price and performance between kanthal and nichrome is negligible with nichrome heating faster and one can compensate by simply upping the wattage or preheat parameters.

 

[Raindance]

I've been dry burning it much the same as Kanthal, I just don't keep the power on it quite as long and I start lower. Let it heat up, dunk into water and repeat until clean. Haven't had any issues with the wire not lasting or tasting funny

From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome
NI80 wire forms a layer of CHROMIUM oxide when heated and resulting in a protective layer preventing further oxidation. That explains it. The danger of Nickel Oxide forming is thus reduced if not at all eliminated.

Regards

 

[stevie g]

From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome
NI80 wire forms a layer of CHROMIUM oxide when heated and resulting in a protective layer preventing further oxidation. That explains it. The danger of Nickel Oxide forming is thus reduced if not at all eliminated.

Regards

A chemist in the article on vapingpost.com says rinse dry burnt under water as loose oxides are water soluble and wash off.