This mod is a bit long in the tooth by now, but there are some interesting bits that trip people up occasionally, so hopefully if you dont have a Nemesis you can glean some "inside info" form this, and if you do have a Nemesis, please read along and nod, and if you too pick up some info that'll be awesome
I've owned almost every Nemesis going, mostly clones, but have had an original which I didnt keep as the clones were so close that I didnt feel the need to hold onto it. Its the mod most days, its the mod my wife uses and its the mod I bought my brother-in-law, because the device is simplicity in itself. A bold statement but once you wrap your head around it, and compare it to other mods little bits start shining through that do put this design above most out there.
Its important when you first get it, to take all the tubes to pieces. I said "all the tubes". Ok, so all the tubes are apart? As well as the small 5mm high invisible ring? Difficult to spot, and supplied as standard is a small ring, but with the tubes being seamless it is easy to overlook this and leave it on. And then your problems start...so find that ring.
Here is a picture of a copper nemesis, I picked copper because with the tarnish it is easier to spot the ring
topleft: all the bits you NEED for 18650 mode,
bottom right: the bits you DONT need, and should put to one side
that small ring I placed upright, at the bottom right, is where most of the problems start on forums with Nemesis complaints.
OK, so lets go over the bits...
Switch: this is NOT adjustable, the pin is meant to be as tight as it can go.
The locking ring obviously screws over the bottom of the "angel" tube.
The angel tube screws into the 18650 extension tube (top middle in the photo)
Cap: Simplicity in itself, this comprises 3 sections. An outer ring which can spin (more on this later) to adjust airflow if your atty takes its air from the 510 connector.
Second part is the threaded cap itself
Last part is the 510 connection pin, threaded, adjustable.
When preparing your Nemesis, always start at the top cap. And end with the switch.
Step 1: Back off the 510 pin, fit your atty, screw the 510 back up until it makes contact, adjust airflow control if necessary.
Step 2: Work your way down, adding tubes as needed (and unless you have the longer 510 pins (which you probably dont) and a kick (which you also probably dont) put those two unused rings away in a safe place and forget about them
Step 3: add the switch. As said, the switch pin must be tight, it is not adjustable, the beauty of the Nemesis design is that the switch can screw up into the tubes, pushing the battery against the 510 pin. All battery size issues, battery rattle etc is taken care of by screwing the switch into the "angel" tube
OK, it'll fire now, and not rattle and be happy happy. Its a pretty good mod, perhaps a bit plain looking.
Atmomixani made some longer pins and thats why that little 5mm tube exists, and if you use a kick then the larger of the two tubes we put aside earlier comes into play (and for 18500 mode). But essentially, all they do is lengthen the mod.
With the items on the left hand side of the picture, you can use the 18650 and 18350 batteries, just omit the extension tube if using 18350 batteries.
The top cap has a nifty design feature which is often overlooked, a small raised inner ring which prevents, on purpose, an atty from seating 100% flush. Its about 2 sheets of paper above where it should be, almost an invisible gap. But because of this, the airflow control ring is able to be adjusted even if the atty is screwed on tight
Lets replace a battery/atty: Important:
Step 1: Back off the switch FIRST. If you dont, weirdly as it may sound, the tubes may get stuck as the internal pressure will cause the 510 pin to unscrew, and as it has a different thread to the switch, it'll cause your mod to get stuck, occasionally. But most often, the pin will unscrew a bit, and then when you put it all together again you'll be experiencing misfires.
So, back off the switch a tad to relieve the pressure, then undo the angel tube/extension tube section, slip out your battery and insert another. Because we had backed the switch out a bit in the beginning, there is now too much/enough space to accommodate the change from e.g. flat top to nipple top, so the angel tube+extension tube will just screw together as normal, and you can tighten the switch again. As much as I am writing paragraphs explaining it, it actually takes about 5-10 seconds to change a battery
Changing an atty works the same way...remember in the beginning we assembled our mod form top to bottom? to change an atty, do the reverse...switch loosen a bit, tubes apart, battery out, back off 510 pin, UNSCREW ATTY.
and then reverse this procedure with a new atty
Things go wrong when you have the switch screw in tight, and try to take an atty off. It goes wrong when the switch is tight and you go try remove the battery, because the design of the mod is such that the switch ensures everything is held together correctly, so as long as that switch is tight, you are fighting against the mod
Whew
Lets try summarise:
510 pin adjust for atty connections, mod can use all battery sizes, and kicks....mod is supplied with more tubes than you need, including one small easy to not spot little bugger. If you leave this tube in, you may think your attys wont work, or you need to undo parts of the switch to try make the switch adjustable. This is not so. Ensure the little ring is removed.
Switch: no need to go exploring in there, but anyway, there two springs, or one spring in some clones, or some magnets. A lot of what you read is not true about magnets improving the switch..I have both in use and cant remember which one has the magnets in. theyre cool to have, but not necessities.#
Nemesis cruchy switch normally comes from other areas unrelated to the spring.
If you do take it apart, there is a locating pin, this is a small diameter, and if you are not careful you will lose it. Stingray uses the same system. If you have lost it, a paperclip cut down can suffice, toothpick or whatever.
It wont go missing by itself, and as the bottom pin of the switch is not adjustable and isnt meant to be adjustable, the small locating pin will never leave you
I know this isnt exactly a review, and comes across more of a user-guide, but there are already many reviews entitled "hits like a train" which may relate more to coils and attys than mods, but in use, the Nemesis is simple to understand.
Back the switch off first
Vape on
Addendum: having trouble finding/removing the small 5mm tube? Because it is small, if you grip it hard it wont spin, it'll deform a bit and be even tighter. A lady would be able to remove it easier...a gentle spin is needed, not a hard grab
Addendum 2: common names for those two tubes we dont use are kick ring and beauty ring. It is a bit blurred now which one is which, as people dont often give clear instructions. The smaller one is the "beauty" ring. Some clones have two beauty rings.
Atmomixani made longer pins so that a standard Nemesis, in 18650 mode, COULD be used with a beauty ring,as the beauty ring had a different finish. If your clone has two beauty rings, then one will stay on for 18650 mode, and the other is for in case you have the optional longer pins. Why..god knows. The clones with two beauty rings have a shorter angel tube.
Tl;dr? I have since made a video to explain this post visually
I've owned almost every Nemesis going, mostly clones, but have had an original which I didnt keep as the clones were so close that I didnt feel the need to hold onto it. Its the mod most days, its the mod my wife uses and its the mod I bought my brother-in-law, because the device is simplicity in itself. A bold statement but once you wrap your head around it, and compare it to other mods little bits start shining through that do put this design above most out there.
Its important when you first get it, to take all the tubes to pieces. I said "all the tubes". Ok, so all the tubes are apart? As well as the small 5mm high invisible ring? Difficult to spot, and supplied as standard is a small ring, but with the tubes being seamless it is easy to overlook this and leave it on. And then your problems start...so find that ring.
Here is a picture of a copper nemesis, I picked copper because with the tarnish it is easier to spot the ring
topleft: all the bits you NEED for 18650 mode,
bottom right: the bits you DONT need, and should put to one side
that small ring I placed upright, at the bottom right, is where most of the problems start on forums with Nemesis complaints.
OK, so lets go over the bits...
Switch: this is NOT adjustable, the pin is meant to be as tight as it can go.
The locking ring obviously screws over the bottom of the "angel" tube.
The angel tube screws into the 18650 extension tube (top middle in the photo)
Cap: Simplicity in itself, this comprises 3 sections. An outer ring which can spin (more on this later) to adjust airflow if your atty takes its air from the 510 connector.
Second part is the threaded cap itself
Last part is the 510 connection pin, threaded, adjustable.
When preparing your Nemesis, always start at the top cap. And end with the switch.
Step 1: Back off the 510 pin, fit your atty, screw the 510 back up until it makes contact, adjust airflow control if necessary.
Step 2: Work your way down, adding tubes as needed (and unless you have the longer 510 pins (which you probably dont) and a kick (which you also probably dont) put those two unused rings away in a safe place and forget about them
Step 3: add the switch. As said, the switch pin must be tight, it is not adjustable, the beauty of the Nemesis design is that the switch can screw up into the tubes, pushing the battery against the 510 pin. All battery size issues, battery rattle etc is taken care of by screwing the switch into the "angel" tube
OK, it'll fire now, and not rattle and be happy happy. Its a pretty good mod, perhaps a bit plain looking.
Atmomixani made some longer pins and thats why that little 5mm tube exists, and if you use a kick then the larger of the two tubes we put aside earlier comes into play (and for 18500 mode). But essentially, all they do is lengthen the mod.
With the items on the left hand side of the picture, you can use the 18650 and 18350 batteries, just omit the extension tube if using 18350 batteries.
The top cap has a nifty design feature which is often overlooked, a small raised inner ring which prevents, on purpose, an atty from seating 100% flush. Its about 2 sheets of paper above where it should be, almost an invisible gap. But because of this, the airflow control ring is able to be adjusted even if the atty is screwed on tight
Lets replace a battery/atty: Important:
Step 1: Back off the switch FIRST. If you dont, weirdly as it may sound, the tubes may get stuck as the internal pressure will cause the 510 pin to unscrew, and as it has a different thread to the switch, it'll cause your mod to get stuck, occasionally. But most often, the pin will unscrew a bit, and then when you put it all together again you'll be experiencing misfires.
So, back off the switch a tad to relieve the pressure, then undo the angel tube/extension tube section, slip out your battery and insert another. Because we had backed the switch out a bit in the beginning, there is now too much/enough space to accommodate the change from e.g. flat top to nipple top, so the angel tube+extension tube will just screw together as normal, and you can tighten the switch again. As much as I am writing paragraphs explaining it, it actually takes about 5-10 seconds to change a battery
Changing an atty works the same way...remember in the beginning we assembled our mod form top to bottom? to change an atty, do the reverse...switch loosen a bit, tubes apart, battery out, back off 510 pin, UNSCREW ATTY.
and then reverse this procedure with a new atty
Things go wrong when you have the switch screw in tight, and try to take an atty off. It goes wrong when the switch is tight and you go try remove the battery, because the design of the mod is such that the switch ensures everything is held together correctly, so as long as that switch is tight, you are fighting against the mod
Whew
Lets try summarise:
510 pin adjust for atty connections, mod can use all battery sizes, and kicks....mod is supplied with more tubes than you need, including one small easy to not spot little bugger. If you leave this tube in, you may think your attys wont work, or you need to undo parts of the switch to try make the switch adjustable. This is not so. Ensure the little ring is removed.
Switch: no need to go exploring in there, but anyway, there two springs, or one spring in some clones, or some magnets. A lot of what you read is not true about magnets improving the switch..I have both in use and cant remember which one has the magnets in. theyre cool to have, but not necessities.#
Nemesis cruchy switch normally comes from other areas unrelated to the spring.
If you do take it apart, there is a locating pin, this is a small diameter, and if you are not careful you will lose it. Stingray uses the same system. If you have lost it, a paperclip cut down can suffice, toothpick or whatever.
It wont go missing by itself, and as the bottom pin of the switch is not adjustable and isnt meant to be adjustable, the small locating pin will never leave you
I know this isnt exactly a review, and comes across more of a user-guide, but there are already many reviews entitled "hits like a train" which may relate more to coils and attys than mods, but in use, the Nemesis is simple to understand.
Back the switch off first
Vape on
Addendum: having trouble finding/removing the small 5mm tube? Because it is small, if you grip it hard it wont spin, it'll deform a bit and be even tighter. A lady would be able to remove it easier...a gentle spin is needed, not a hard grab
Addendum 2: common names for those two tubes we dont use are kick ring and beauty ring. It is a bit blurred now which one is which, as people dont often give clear instructions. The smaller one is the "beauty" ring. Some clones have two beauty rings.
Atmomixani made longer pins so that a standard Nemesis, in 18650 mode, COULD be used with a beauty ring,as the beauty ring had a different finish. If your clone has two beauty rings, then one will stay on for 18650 mode, and the other is for in case you have the optional longer pins. Why..god knows. The clones with two beauty rings have a shorter angel tube.
Tl;dr? I have since made a video to explain this post visually
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