Regulated battery drain infograph

Mike

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Batteries don't last as lonng in regulated mods, besides that they're constantly putting out whatever wattage you want, but at lower battery volts, it draws more current to get that wattage. So your almost flat 3v battery needs 17A to hit 50W. Then to make matters better there's an efficiency knock from the chip so you'll actually be using even more, around 20A when your battery is low to put out 50W. Make sure to buy batteries with this in mind!!
 
Not always, if a regulated mod is running dual 18650s in serial them the output voltage is around 7.4v. The mod then down steps the voltage using a buck module... this is more efficient than mods which boost voltage. The battery efficiency does not suffer as much on serial wired dual battery setup.
 
You realise series mods are only just entering the mainstream?
 
I own one, suppose I am ahead of the curve?. Anyway thought I would clarify before people painted all regulated mods with the same brush.
 
Am reading this thread with interest - thanks
 
Not always, if a regulated mod is running dual 18650s in serial them the output voltage is around 7.4v. The mod then down steps the voltage using a buck module... this is more efficient than mods which boost voltage. The battery efficiency does not suffer as much on serial wired dual battery setup.

Hi @Sprint - thanks for the comment
Are there any good serial wired dual 18650's available locally that you know of and can recommend?
 
I'm using the Dovpo E-mech otherwise known as the Heatvape Invader it is relatively new on the market, mine is secondhand, @GerharddP had it for a week or two I think and I've had it for a few days. Not sure why he sold it... I'm guessing the looks :)

My criteria for a good reg mod was two batteries and a spring loaded center pin on the 510 connector and this device meets both of those criteria. I don't care that it looks like a kids walkie talkie.
 
That's a pretty uncommon setup @Sprint. I'm not sure if it's fair to compare something oddball like that to the standards like the Vamos, DNA30 and IPV
 
@Sprint

How is the vape on the HeatVape Invader?
What power are you running it at and how much battery life are you getting?

Confuses me because I checked on the eCiggies site and they mention the HeatVape invader has its batteries in parallel
They also mention a current of 2.1 Amps. Isn't that too low - that's the sort of current the Spinners et al can produce?

The reason I am asking is that I am looking for a great regulated device - with ideally 30W minimum (more preferred) - and great battery life. The HeatVape Invader may just be something I must take a look at. Not concerned about the looks - more the functionality of it. It will be a home device
 
@Silver, the increase in efficiency isn't as big as you'd expect. Depending on your settings it'll probably in the region of 10%.

Any dual battery mod will give you huge battery life. 18650s are better than 26650s generally, so a dual 18650 would be better than a 26650. IPV3 and Cloupor T8 would be your best bet for battery life.

My initial post was actually explaining that 50W from a low battery pulls a lot more current than one might expect..

This website suggests a series connection
http://www.dovpoecig.com/dovpo-e-mech-electroniccigarette-factory.html
 
@Sprint

How is the vape on the HeatVape Invader?
What power are you running it at and how much battery life are you getting?

Confuses me because I checked on the eCiggies site and they mention the HeatVape invader has its batteries in parallel
They also mention a current of 2.1 Amps. Isn't that too low - that's the sort of current the Spinners et al can produce?

The reason I am asking is that I am looking for a great regulated device - with ideally 30W minimum (more preferred) - and great battery life. The HeatVape Invader may just be something I must take a look at. Not concerned about the looks - more the functionality of it. It will be a home device

Hi @Silver that heatvape @Sprint is talking about used to be mine. it has a max output of 30W, current output I'm not sure of but the bat life was amazing. i would vape at 30W for 3-4 days before i had to charge. I only sold it because I needed some cash for the sig. I loved the huge amounts of power that I was use to on a mech but longed for the safety and constant output of a regulated device so bought a bigger reg device than the heatvape
 
@Sprint

How is the vape on the HeatVape Invader?
What power are you running it at and how much battery life are you getting?

Confuses me because I checked on the eCiggies site and they mention the HeatVape invader has its batteries in parallel
They also mention a current of 2.1 Amps. Isn't that too low - that's the sort of current the Spinners et al can produce?

The reason I am asking is that I am looking for a great regulated device - with ideally 30W minimum (more preferred) - and great battery life. The HeatVape Invader may just be something I must take a look at. Not concerned about the looks - more the functionality of it. It will be a home device
The websites are wrong, I watched all the youtube videos and one guy put a multi meter on it to prove it was in series. The Chip is a clone of the DNA30 but it uses an american made Chip which has better regulation than clone DNA30 chips... Like the Cloupor Hana mod DNA30 uses the CNA30 chip and it is generally regarded as the best Hana clone.

I use it on 8.5W on a Kangertech Genitank if I pump more wattage I have to suck really fast so the airflow coils the coil down so it is possible to put 15W through a Kangertech dual coil unit but you will be sucking like it paid for it.

When it comes to dry burning coils it is brilliant, just whack it up to 30W and pulse it... so much quicker to dry the tap water out after a rinse.

I'm currently on 715 puffs and have half battery life left.

In terms of functionality it beats all... you get a led light that acts as a torch, USB pass thru, powerbank charger capabilites, massive battery life and 30W max which for me is plenty powerful. And it is built like a tank. Lastly for me the most significant sign of longevity is the spring loaded tank connector. No more prying up the center pin or bad connections because you over tightened and atty.
 
@Sprint, yea it's a real shame.. But I know Silver already has batteries and a charger anyway
 
That's a pretty uncommon setup @Sprint. I'm not sure if it's fair to compare something oddball like that to the standards like the Vamos, DNA30 and IPV
I like that it is oddball you should see the faces when I pull it out... think I have converted my whole IT department to vapers and a guy from marketing liked the look so much he wants to get one now. lol
 
Am I understanding this correctly? The Heatvape Invader, if in series, will provide more power but the battery life (mAh) as if just one battery? If in parallel the power will be as if one battery, but the battery life of all the batteries? Does not sound right if @GerharddP got 4 days of vaping from it?
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@Andre it's a little more complicated than that in a regulated mod. (Btw if this is too rudimentary / broken in translation, I'm sure Johan will be able to explain better).

In a boosting device (batteries in parallel), you'll waste some energy boosting the volts higher.

In a throttling device (series) less power is used lowering the voltage

This isn't a huge difference in terms of real world performance. He is getting so many pulls because he's got 5000mAh of batteries powering 8w :) Compare that to a MVP2 for example and it's not especially impressive for such a big device, let alone unbelievable ;)

At the end of the day, watts are watts. Better battery = better performance!!!
 
I don't want to get technical as I am not an electrical engineer.
I have modified flashlights before from normal globes to heatsinked high power leds with boost modules.

What I observed is that two batteries in serial vs parallel take the same amount to run down so regardless of higher volts or higher current you will get two batteries worth of run time. minor loss in efficiency for boost opposed to buck.
 
Thanks for that @Andre

Just thought of something interesting regarding dual batteries

If you connect batteries up in series, increasing the voltage - you had better be sure that the batteries individually can handle the amp draw of the resistance you connect to it.

So say you connect 2x18650 batts in series - and each has a 15 amp limit - for example
When they are connected in series they will have a combined volage of 8.4 volts (when fresh).
That means that if you connect a 0.5 ohm load, then it will draw 16.8 amps - which is above the limit for each individual battery.

I suppose in a regulated mod, all this is taken care of by the electronics - so it doesn't let you do silly things.
My example above I suppose is more applicable to a mechanical device of sorts.

Hope I am understanding this correctly
 
@Silver, you raise an excellent point. Series unregulated mods are seriously dangerous territory. I'd recommend against it.

Also remember in series a .5 ohm coil with fresh batteries will get you 140 watts. Enough watts to power a 42" tv.

You can also get into the world of 26650s in series. 8.4V with around 50A at their disposal. Now that'd be ridiculous.
 
@Andre it's a little more complicated than that in a regulated mod. (Btw if this is too rudimentary / broken in translation, I'm sure Johan will be able to explain better).

In a boosting device (batteries in parallel), you'll waste some energy boosting the volts higher.

In a throttling device (series) less power is used lowering the voltage

This isn't a huge difference in terms of real world performance. He is getting so many pulls because he's got 5000mAh of batteries powering 8w :) Compare that to a MVP2 for example and it's not especially impressive for such a big device, let alone unbelievable ;)

At the end of the day, watts are watts. Better battery = better performance!!!

I don't want to get technical as I am not an electrical engineer.
I have modified flashlights before from normal globes to heatsinked high power leds with boost modules.

What I observed is that two batteries in serial vs parallel take the same amount to run down so regardless of higher volts or higher current you will get two batteries worth of run time. minor loss in efficiency for boost opposed to buck.
Thanks guys, I think I understand - much appreciated.
 
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