Repairing Fire Button Innokin Svd

ShaneW

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My SVD has been driving me nuts lately, Fire button is very intermittent. Was only firing 50% of the time so I decided to strip and see what I can see.

Firstly, I would not recommend doing this for fun... there is a very good chance your SVD will get scratched and scarred (mine did). This took me about 2 hours so its not exactly a walk in the park either.

The 1st bit is the part that causes the most damage, you need to open it up. The top cap is press fitted and is really tight. I clamped it in the bench vice on the beauty ring and wiggled and bent like crazy to pop it open.
IMG-20140622-WA0011.jpg

Now you need to desolder the red wire from the centre pin to remove the top cap completly.
IMG-20140622-WA0013.jpg
You also need to cut or desolder the black wire that is looped, it is already solder joined and covered with heat shrink.
If you have the correct size Torx screw driver, remove the screws around the screen, at least the one closer to the atty. I didnt have the correct size and ended up damaging my screen,luckily it still works perfectly.
IMG-20140622-WA0016.jpg

Now remove all 3 buttons, you have to lever them out with a flat screwdriver, I did scratch the body while doing this.

IMG-20140622-WA0022.jpg

Now you can remove the PC board and the black holder ring that keeps the board in place. Do this carefully being careful not to damage the board. They slide right out but there is a positive wire connecting the board to the battery positive.
IMG-20140622-WA0028.jpg

See the damage on my screen from not removing the torx screw... luckily it still works perfectly.

Now cut the positive wire, it is already joined and heatshrinked. Push it through one of the side button holes for access.
20140622_134542.jpg

Now you remove the board!
IMG-20140622-WA0026.jpg

To get to the switch properly , you have to seperate the 2 circuit boards by desoldering the standoff interconnections. This is quite a fiddly solder job that should only be attempted by someone with previous soldering experiance. Ive been working on PC boards for about 15 years and I battled a bit.
IMG-20140622-WA0030.jpg

If you have a spare tactile switch you could replace the switch. I didnt, so decided to open it and check. To open it, you need to cut the 4 little plastic pieces holding the switch together.

And Waala... there is the culprit!
IMG_20140622_013954_resized.jpg IMG-20140622-WA0035.jpg

There was some dirt, a tiny bit, causing all this hassle by creating a dirty contact. The switch is a sealed unit so this could have only happened in the factory that made the switch. Cleaned out with earbud, if you have contact cleaner... even better.

Now to reverse the process and reassemble. After assembling the switch, use a soldering iron to melt the tops of the 4 posts, just a little, to hold it in place.

You need to resolder the 2 wires that you cut and heatshrink. You can use insulation tape but heatshrink is best.
20140622_134940.jpg 20140622_135652.jpg

Re-inserting the PC board and the plastic holder ring is a bit tricky but just work carefully and you'll get it eventually.

Also be carefull about the placement of the wires, I accidentally placed a wire over the screen. Not a chance am I opening it again to fix this. Whenever I get the correct size torx, I should be able to move it by removing the screen cover.
20140622_142938.jpg

As you can see, I managed to get one of the screws out using a flat jewellers but the other one wouldnt budge. Luckily it saved the screen from further damage when I reinserted it. When reinserting the 3 buttons, I tapped them in softly with a hammer.

And..... Its firing like a Boss!!! havent had a single misfire since.

Can you believe such a tiny section of a pube can cause so much trouble!

If you ever decide to do this, good luck... I would highly recommend using the highest Nic level juice you have while working on it :D
 
All I can say is wow, good job man

Sent from my S4 LTE using my finger
 
My SVD has been driving me nuts lately, Fire button is very intermittent. Was only firing 50% of the time so I decided to strip and see what I can see.

Firstly, I would not recommend doing this for fun... there is a very good chance your SVD will get scratched and scarred (mine did). This took me about 2 hours so its not exactly a walk in the park either.

The 1st bit is the part that causes the most damage, you need to open it up. The top cap is press fitted and is really tight. I clamped it in the bench vice on the beauty ring and wiggled and bent like crazy to pop it open.
View attachment 6954

Now you need to desolder the red wire from the centre pin to remove the top cap completly.
View attachment 6953
You also need to cut or desolder the black wire that is looped, it is already solder joined and covered with heat shrink.
If you have the correct size Torx screw driver, remove the screws around the screen, at least the one closer to the atty. I didnt have the correct size and ended up damaging my screen,luckily it still works perfectly.
View attachment 6955

Now remove all 3 buttons, you have to lever them out with a flat screwdriver, I did scratch the body while doing this.

View attachment 6956

Now you can remove the PC board and the black holder ring that keeps the board in place. Do this carefully being careful not to damage the board. They slide right out but there is a positive wire connecting the board to the battery positive.
View attachment 6957

See the damage on my screen from not removing the torx screw... luckily it still works perfectly.

Now cut the positive wire, it is already joined and heatshrinked. Push it through one of the side button holes for access.
View attachment 6958

Now you remove the board!
View attachment 6959

To get to the switch properly , you have to seperate the 2 circuit boards by desoldering the standoff interconnections. This is quite a fiddly solder job that should only be attempted by someone with previous soldering experiance. Ive been working on PC boards for about 15 years and I battled a bit.
View attachment 6960

If you have a spare tactile switch you could replace the switch. I didnt, so decided to open it and check. To open it, you need to cut the 4 little plastic pieces holding the switch together.

And Waala... there is the culprit!
View attachment 6962 View attachment 6961

There was some dirt, a tiny bit, causing all this hassle by creating a dirty contact. The switch is a sealed unit so this could have only happened in the factory that made the switch. Cleaned out with earbud, if you have contact cleaner... even better.

Now to reverse the process and reassemble. After assembling the switch, use a soldering iron to melt the tops of the 4 posts, just a little, to hold it in place.

You need to resolder the 2 wires that you cut and heatshrink. You can use insulation tape but heatshrink is best.
View attachment 6964 View attachment 6963

Re-inserting the PC board and the plastic holder ring is a bit tricky but just work carefully and you'll get it eventually.

Also be carefull about the placement of the wires, I accidentally placed a wire over the screen. Not a chance am I opening it again to fix this. Whenever I get the correct size torx, I should be able to move it by removing the screen cover.
View attachment 6965

As you can see, I managed to get one of the screws out using a flat jewellers but the other one wouldnt budge. Luckily it saved the screen from further damage when I reinserted it. When reinserting the 3 buttons, I tapped them in softly with a hammer.

And..... Its firing like a Boss!!! havent had a single misfire since.

Can you believe such a tiny section of a chinese pube can cause so much trouble!

If you ever decide to do this, good luck... I would highly recommend using the highest Nic level juice you have while working on it :D
Absolutely superb instructions you have just saved me hours of research thank you so much. I have one that's been begging to be fixed. Those darn pubes. Waat went wong. Now I know what went wong, it was Mr Wong himself.
 
Well that just impresses the hell out of me… mine would be at the bottom off the gorge by now… and the more I think about it the more I think my SVD has a small piece of dirt on mine because I have an intermittent issue like that but when I concentrate and press the button it works… been like that since I got it!
 
Give it a bash uncle rob. I would offer to do it for you but opening it has scratched my SVD badly. I wouldn't want to try it on anyone else's device
 
Give it a bash uncle rob. I would offer to do it for you but opening it has scratched my SVD badly. I wouldn't want to try it on anyone else's device

OMG I would never attempt something like that not ever! I am not very technically minded and building a coil and making a wick is at the edge of my technical expertise!

I have hated the SVD right from the beginning and the only reason it’s still with me is I don’t want to PIF it to a newbie and make them go through the same pain I did when I went 18650… Luckily @Gizmo sold me one of his Sigelei’s that kept me going on the 18650 route…
 
Was it the firing issue that put you off?
 
For some reason it doesn't allow my post if I reply ... Weird. Using Chrome on my phone
 
Was it the firing issue that put you off?

Yip it was mainly that and the confusing menu with multiple buttons... but the misfires was the issue… I would then press three times (or was it 5) because I thought it had tuned off and then it turned itself OFF and I would then have to turn it back on… just so annoying! :-@

The first one I got was even worse… the second one was better but still a piece of crap in my book!
After my second hand Sigelei (which I still love and still have) I got the SID and that is simple and works every time! A much better buy in my opinion.

And then I got the Sigelei 20W and it’s in a class of its own… the very thought of the SVD even being in the same room as the Sigelei gives me shivers down my spine…

OK I guess I’m getting a little over dramatic now. :)
 
Wow @ShaneW I took one apart but didn't have to break it down that far. I sprayed a bit switch cleaner in onto the switch while still in the tube and got away with that. Nice tutorial man. Also tip of the day I used pieces of leather from an old belt to prevent scratching when clamping in the vice.

Sent from my GT-I9190 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks @Gazzacpt I tried to wrap it in a cloth but it was so tight I could only do it without it. Will try leather next time!
 
Having the same problem with my SVD, thanks for sharing the destruction!
Will have to do that one day when mine gets worse.
 
You can polish those scratches out of the steel with some 1000 grit paper. And excellent job on the SVD, one of the reasons I hate electronic mods is probably because I spend my life working with busted pc components. The build quality of electronics these days is mostly crap.
 
Thanks @Alex the scratches are quite deep so it's gonna take since serious elbow Grease.

I was actually quite impressed with the build quality, the problem is most tactile switches aren't really designed to be pushed a few hundred times a day, every day. And judging by the amount of faulty SVD switches out there, the ones they use are clearly not the best. Other than that its pretty well designed and put together.
 
You can polish those scratches out of the steel with some 1000 grit paper. And excellent job on the SVD, one of the reasons I hate electronic mods is probably because I spend my life working with busted pc components. The build quality of electronics these days is mostly crap.
I was surprised by the solid build of the svd though the boards are packed in the tube quite well, the factory soldering is solid, joined wires are heatshrunk and the pressfit bits have tight tolerances. On the whole pretty well built.

Sent from my GT-I9190 using Tapatalk
 
24hrs later and it hasn't missed a beat. Problem seems to be solved, enjoying the SVD again. And to think I almost binned it.
 
Guys, would you not be able to just try and penetrate the fire button with contact spray?

I wouldnt be able to or willing to try that either so maybe this would be a alternative?
 
If it was dirty where mine was... Inside the tactile switch, you wouldn't be able to penetrate it with contact cleaner . The switch is a sealed component. This dirt must have come in from the manufacturing process and settled on the contact with time. It started giving hassles from about 2 weeks old.
I'm not saying this is the case for every dodgy switch though. It is definitely worth trying contact cleaner first!
 
Guys, would you not be able to just try and penetrate the fire button with contact spray?

I wouldnt be able to or willing to try that either so maybe this would be a alternative?
I got a result doing it with just the topcap off and spraying down the side. no harm in trying. if that doesn't sort you out then you have to follow @ShaneW 's great tutorial.

Sent from my GT-I9190 using Tapatalk
 
@ShaneW , and now you know why my heart skips a beat when somebody asks me to look at thier SVD thats not firing , i did mine as the first test one and wow was that fun fun fun .

I have actually asked a lad who says hes a machinist to make me a tool for taking off the top cap , but i thinks hes not wanting to make it for me cos he has not come back to me at all .. !!
 
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