Sapor RDA
- Thread starter Rebel
- Start date
I'm using a proper torx head screw driver. It strips. It's sub standard screws.
agreed its actually the threads that strip and no i have not cross threaded em lol they just kak screws
Mine is not the screw threats that strip. It's the screw head that strips and it becomes round so the torx screw driver doesn't catch anymore. That's why I make grub screws with flat a flat head groove. They never strip. Using those self made grub screws in all my atties. Never had to replace any of them.
sounds like a plan will have to dig around and see if i have screws somewhere
Another con for me. Chuff cap (which I prefer) is just too short. Even just touching my lips to it, they still touch the top cap which gets warm with low ohm builds (which I prefer). So, I'll be putting the Sapor up for sale soon. Not working for me. Will replace stripped grub screws with self made grub screws that will never strip. (Flat head screw driver)
Oh, and my Pollux still beats everything I own with flavor, this Sapor too. The Pollux is better.
Oh, and my Pollux still beats everything I own with flavor, this Sapor too. The Pollux is better.
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I will take 10 of those self made grub screws, thank you
.
I will take 10 of those self made grub screws, thank you
For which atty?
The Sapor. BTW, did you have it modded to bf?
I do the modding myself. Did one for @Vetsak yesterday. It's quite easy. Liquid comes out between the posts on both sides of the positive post and modified a velocity bf pin to fit in there. Works very nice.
About the screws: Yes, I can make you some, but not now. My thin cutting discs are all broken (from doing that) and waiting on a large shipment of cutting discs. Then I can start making them again. Use one cutting disc for about 3 screws if I'm very careful. They break very easily.
Thanks @zadiac. Shall remind you in one month's time!
Yes, let's hope they're here in a month's time......hahaha
you won't be sorry
Good day vapers,
Im loving my sapor, but realized that there is a little bit of juice on the 510 center pin. I have never had such problems before with any other RDAs
It is not a major leak, just a tiny bit of juice on the 510 pin. It was a hot day, so maybe the juice got thin and seeped a little? Any advice or similar experiences, please respond. Just worried about it getting into the mod. Never happened before on the sapor too, only realized today.
Thanks for reading.
Im loving my sapor, but realized that there is a little bit of juice on the 510 center pin. I have never had such problems before with any other RDAs
It is not a major leak, just a tiny bit of juice on the 510 pin. It was a hot day, so maybe the juice got thin and seeped a little? Any advice or similar experiences, please respond. Just worried about it getting into the mod. Never happened before on the sapor too, only realized today.
Thanks for reading.
Sup bro
It goes like this right
If you screw out the 510 pin completely you can pull out the positive post I pulled mine out the other day as I was having resistance issues. What you will notice is there is a bloody hole from inside where the wire is trapped in the post holes that allows liquid to seep down the pylon through the center of the 510 and eventually past the 510 pin.
Why in gods name did they make a hole straight through the positive pole it just does not make any sense.
I was wondering why i couldn't get consistent TC on my IPV4S so decided to strip down the atty what I found was liquid will eventually make it's way through the pole and onto the threads of the adjustable 510 pin creating problems with resistance reading when using NI200.
Not a train smash as it only takes 5 mins to dismantle, clean inside the 510 pole with some tissue paper and reassemble.
It seems to take a few weeks for the liquid to work itself inside and down the pole so at least it won't be as annoying as the lemo 2 which had to be cleaned out every darn day in TC mode.
Anyway after cleaning out the 510 TC mode worked perfectly.
Case in point remove 510 screw, pull out positive post and blow through from the bottom. Air comes out the top at the wire post holes WTF!!!
its a great little tank, i've had mine the longest... I think... maybe...
it's got great flavour, and as others have said it doesn't leak.
I usually run mine with a 24G dual coil. 6 wraps around a 3.5mm rod per coil. that usually lands me between 0.26-0.33 ohms. and i push that at around 60-65W.
If I were running mine on a subox mini.... I'd use the same build, but with 26G wire and run it at about 35W.
it's got great flavour, and as others have said it doesn't leak.
I usually run mine with a 24G dual coil. 6 wraps around a 3.5mm rod per coil. that usually lands me between 0.26-0.33 ohms. and i push that at around 60-65W.
If I were running mine on a subox mini.... I'd use the same build, but with 26G wire and run it at about 35W.
@zadiac I read your previous post about bfing the sapor, could you confirm the holes as I described in my uh, rant are actually meant to be there for the purpose of bottom feeding?.Sup bro
It goes like this right
If you screw out the 510 pin completely you can pull out the positive post I pulled mine out the other day as I was having resistance issues. What you will notice is there is a bloody hole from inside where the wire is trapped in the post holes that allows liquid to seep down the pylon through the center of the 510 and eventually past the 510 pin.
Why in gods name did they make a hole straight through the positive pole it just does not make any sense.
I was wondering why i couldn't get consistent TC on my IPV4S so decided to strip down the atty what I found was liquid will eventually make it's way through the pole and onto the threads of the adjustable 510 pin creating problems with resistance reading when using NI200.
Not a train smash as it only takes 5 mins to dismantle, clean inside the 510 pole with some tissue paper and reassemble.
It seems to take a few weeks for the liquid to work itself inside and down the pole so at least it won't be as annoying as the lemo 2 which had to be cleaned out every darn day in TC mode.
Anyway after cleaning out the 510 TC mode worked perfectly.
Case in point remove 510 screw, pull out positive post and blow through from the bottom. Air comes out the top at the wire post holes WTF!!!
I can't confirm that it goes to the post holes, but I only had to drill through the positve post from side to side (negative to negative direction) for the BF. The positive post is basically completely hollow inside. So it's possible that it goes up all the way to the positive post holes.
@Sprint thank you for your input. Using the ipv4s as well and I blamed it on my twisted kanthals. Followed the above mentioned steps and it is all good now!
I couldn't find the hole in mine though. No air passing through. However, the peek material seems to be lacking air tight-ness.
Thanks again!
I couldn't find the hole in mine though. No air passing through. However, the peek material seems to be lacking air tight-ness.
Thanks again!
Mine seems to be fine.
Yours seems to be seeping much quicker than mine. I'll strip and clean every two weeks which is fine but every night sounds wrong.
All I can say is vape the tank well dry before retiring for the night.
Good luck.
I have found the problem to why my juice was seeping through!
I have recently relocated to PE and it is ridiculously hot here. I left my Sapor overnight and during the day on my desk when I went to work, without knowing that the desk receives directl sunlight in the afternoon.
This was the reason to why my Sapor was giving problems. Juice thinning due to heat and leaving the RDA saturated for a long period of time. I already miss the Cape!
Thanks for all the input!
I have recently relocated to PE and it is ridiculously hot here. I left my Sapor overnight and during the day on my desk when I went to work, without knowing that the desk receives directl sunlight in the afternoon.
This was the reason to why my Sapor was giving problems. Juice thinning due to heat and leaving the RDA saturated for a long period of time. I already miss the Cape!
Thanks for all the input!
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