Woodvil Care and Maintenance

[Papa_Lazarou]

Hmmm... I've not seen that before, mate. It looks as though juice has leaked from the 510 into either the poly finish or the underlying wood and then discoloured from heat. I don't believe it's charred wood.

Did this happen in one event or build up over time?

 

[Spydro]

All around the 510 there seems to be this burning effect taking place. I have found there is usually juice in the but Its not from the atty. It leaks out of the brass portion all around it and it's discolouring/charring the wood. Is this normal?
P.S its tint to re coil as I've been running the same coil for over 6 weeks.
Also for those with OCD I found the spare screws from vapedecadence work well unless you are using 2 new screws and then they make contact. Only or screw was stripped.

View attachment 48421

Sorry up front because I know that you won't like my opinion at all, but it's based on many decades of crafting exotic woods for particular products that were also subject to similar. It's something I have seen in wood vape gear before as well, and I even have a wood DT myself made by a very reputable craftsman of them that suffered the same when the seal between the wood and SS core was breached. So I think that e liquid has breached the bond between the poly finish and wood around the 510 and/or the glue itself that holds the 5i0 in allowing e liquid to soak into the cells/fiber of the wood and become rancid. If that is so, a possible fix is to remove the 510 assy completely, sand the top of the Woodvil deep enough to get it all out (or gouge it out and refill), reseal the wood and reglue the 510 in. The other bad news is that it is unhealthy as it is with rancid liquid embedded into the wood that possibly has also turned moldy.

As a sidebar without getting into all the ramifications of it... All wood is toxic to some degree naturally, some are very toxic, most gets more toxins added by sawyers, distributors, etc to protect it from insect damage and environmental conditions before it is imported or sold retail. If not properly protected those toxins can be health issues as well.

 

[Christos]

It's built up over time.
Well the 510 has always been loose in the sense that it moved up and down. I guess that explains why it was so easy for the juice to seep between the 510 and the wood.

I'll have to retire the mod until I get it fixed.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

It's built up over time.
Well the 510 has always been loose in the sense that it moved up and down. I guess that explains why it was so easy for the juice to seep between the 510 and the wood.

I'll have to retire the mod until I get it fixed.

Thanks for the input.

Spydro has vast experience with wood, Christos. I'd be inclined to heed his advice. Given that the 510 slips, it's likely that the juice entered through the unpolied edges of the 510 mounting hole.

If you email Rob at reosmods, he might well have a fix he can apply if you'd like to go that route.

 

[Christos]

Spydro has vast experience with wood, Christos. I'd be inclined to heed his advice. Given that the 510 slips, it's likely that the juice entered through the unpolied edges of the 510 mounting hole.

If you email Rob at reosmods, he might well have a fix he can apply if you'd like to go that route.

Thanks, I'm just sad I have to retire my reo for now.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Thanks, I'm just sad I have to retire my reo for now.

Well, a couple of thoughts...

1) No such thing as a dead reo. It can be refit, by hook or by crook.

2) This is why we want/need backups. Nobody should suffer through lack of a reo in the house.

 

[Christos]

Well, a couple of thoughts...

1) No such thing as a dead reo. It can be refit, by hook or by crook.

2) This is why we want/need backups. Nobody should suffer through lack of a reo in the house.

Just busy deciding if I really need a P67 or a grand LP.
I already have spares for a grand.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Just busy deciding if I really need a P67 or a grand LP.
I already have spares for a grand.

I'd go for the P67, brother. The only thing that is bespoke for it in terms of available replacement parts is the firing pin and maybe the firing button. Springs, bottles, doors, and 510 accoutrements (pins, adjustment screws) are interchangeable between it and the grand. As Rob is slowing down, this might be a closing window to get a piece of reo history.

 

[Rob Fisher]

It's one of the reasons I tend to prefer metal REO's... I have sent two Woodies back to Rob's Spa for attention. Woodies are really beautiful but not as practical as Grands!

 

[Spydro]

I'd go for the P67, brother.... As Rob is slowing down, this might be a closing window to get a piece of reo history.

I couldn't agree with @Papa_Lazarou more. If you think you'll want a P67 ever, there might not be a later.

 

[Andre]

Just busy deciding if I really need a P67 or a grand LP.
I already have spares for a grand.

Bad news about the Woodvil, @Christos. Maybe consult with Rob via email - you could probably sand it out, remove the poly finish from the whole setup and redo in an oil finish - but that is pure speculation on my part as I have no expertise in this regard. Maybe ask for some advice from @Genosmate - he is a wood expert and wooden mod maker of note. Might even be able to fix it for you - a local solution.

Another member and I have decided to go for the Grand LPs. With Rob's slowdown I do not see that Vapour Mountain will keep spares in future. Also means I do not have to keep spares for the P67, which are different to the other spares. And price of course. I am not a fan of the button on the P67, both for looks and safety. We went with the Economy LP Grands, which is substantially less expensive for only not having undergone a final tumbling.

 

[Spydro]

As @Rob Fisher alluded to Reo Woodies do need some extra care to protect the wood itself, they can be damaged easier from abuse or mishap than the metal Reos, but as wood mods go they are pretty well made. I don't baby any of my Reos, metal or wood. And I don't do maintenance on any of them as much as some folks do. The Woodies get wiped clean and brushed with Howards inside and out on a very loose 3 month schedule. They never see direct sunshine, but just from handling and use the wood will dry out over time and that opens the door for any joose that gets on them to get to the wood. I do all 9 at once while I have the stuff out... it doesn't take that long. The metals just get unceremoniously ran under a faucet, maybe brushed some if they ever need cleaning. Why I call them the KISS mods in comparison to the GP PAPS before them that had to taken completely apart and scrubbed with soapy water, dried, treated, etc every single week to keep them hitting hard. With 11 of them, a bunch of GP Herons, Spheriods and SnP tanks that all had to have the same maintenance and all reassembled. If they were all done at once it was most of a day's project.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

As @Rob Fisher alluded to Reo Woodies do need some extra care to protect the wood itself, they can be damaged easier from abuse or mishap than the metal Reos, but as wood mods go they are pretty well made. I don't baby any of my Reos, metal or wood. And I don't do maintenance on any of them as much as some folks do. The Woodies get wiped clean and brushed with Howards inside and out on a very loose 3 month schedule. They never see direct sunshine, but just from handling and use the wood will dry out over time and that opens the door for any joose that gets on them to get to the wood. I do all 9 at once while I have the stuff out... it doesn't take that long. The metals just get unceremoniously ran under a faucet, maybe brushed some if they ever need cleaning. Why I call them the KISS mods in comparison to the GP PAPS before them that had to taken completely apart and scrubbed with soapy water, dried, treated, etc every single week to keep them hitting hard. With 11 of them, a bunch of GP Herons, Spheriods and SnP tanks that all had to have the same maintenance and all reassembled. If they were all done at once it was most of a day's project.

I get exhausted just hearing about the paps maintenance.

I use howard's on the oil finish woodies, mineral oil for the interior of the poly coated ones.

 

[Christos]

Does anybody know or has anybody taken the 510 out of the woodvil before?

It looks like the charring is actually only the poly coat, so a mild sand and a polish will do the trick.
Im thinking of taking the whole reo apart so that I can sand it all and polish it all ensuring that after assembly there are no gaps for juice to enter the mod.

 

[Rob Fisher]

Does anybody know or has anybody taken the 510 out of the woodvil before?

It looks like the charring is actually only the poly coat, so a mild sand and a polish will do the trick.
Im thinking of taking the whole reo apart so that I can sand it all and polish it all ensuring that after assembly there are no gaps for juice to enter the mod.

Never done it and I personally would never attempt it... but as far as I know the 510 is pressure fitted so it may be possible to do that... but let's wait for some of the maintenance boffins to give advice.

 

[Christos]

Never done it and I personally would never attempt it... but as far as I know the 510 is pressure fitted so it may be possible to do that... but let's wait for some of the maintenance boffins to give advice.

The 510 is loose and comes up about 3 to 4 mm when pressed. I suspect this is how the juice got under the poly coat. I see inside there is a soldered wire to the 510. Im thinking this has to be removed for the 510 to slide out but Im playing on the side of caution and asking before I attempt anything.

 

[Genosmate]

The 510 is loose and comes up about 3 to 4 mm when pressed. I suspect this is how the juice got under the poly coat. I see inside there is a soldered wire to the 510. Im thinking this has to be removed for the 510 to slide out but Im playing on the side of caution and asking before I attempt anything.

Just one wire to the 510?
Chances are you will have to get the wire/wires off the 510 in order to get it out of the way and allow you to work on the finish.
I'd bond that 510 in once you've finished and are sure you can re solder it when its in position.
Once you get that 510 out you can mask up the mod and just work on the damaged area,I'd drop a line to Rob and ask him (unless anyone else knows) what exactly is the finish on the mod,that way you'll be able to match it up.
Good luck with it.

 

[Christos]

Yup, just 1. The other makes contact via the plate and contact leaf.

Any recommendations on the bonding agent?
Something that can withstand heat and is fairly non toxic?

 

[Genosmate]

Yup, just 1. The other makes contact via the plate and contact leaf.

Any recommendations on the bonding agent?
Something that can withstand heat and is fairly non toxic?
View attachment 49004

Oops I forgot its a mech switch.
Is there any chance you can loosen the positive plate and then unfix the spring?That way the 510 may push out and stay connected to the spring.Doesn't look like it but just a thought.
I'd use a small amount of epoxy to bond the 510,I think any brand would do,I doubt you have to worry about heat.

 

[Christos]

Oops I forgot its a mech switch.
Is there any chance you can loosen the positive plate and then unfix the spring?That way the 510 may push out and stay connected to the spring.Doesn't look like it but just a thought.
I'd use a small amount of epoxy to bond the 510,I think any brand would do,I doubt you have to worry about heat.

Ive taken the plate and bottom pin off before but it goes to a point and then doesnt move any more.
Ill perhaps give it a try this weekend.
Need to buy some fine sandpaper/ water paper.

 

[Ernest]

Something that can withstand heat and is fairly non toxic?

Like @Genosmate said, most epoxy's can withstand temperatures up to 177 deg C and are nontoxic when cured. It will also seal the wood and fill tiny gaps that may be between the 510 and wood.

 

[Genosmate]

Ive taken the plate and bottom pin off before but it goes to a point and then doesnt move any more.
Ill perhaps give it a try this weekend.
Need to buy some fine sandpaper/ water paper.

Just apply the tip of a soldering iron to the solder joint at the 510 and it should come off ,then you should be able to push the 510 out.
Personally I wouldn't use wet/dry paper for what you want to do,I'd try and find/use very fine sandpaper instead.

 

[Christos]

Just apply the tip of a soldering iron to the solder joint at the 510 and it should come off ,then you should be able to push the 510 out.
Personally I wouldn't use wet/dry paper for what you want to do,I'd try and find/use very fine sandpaper instead.

The water paper is for another project where i would like to sand the steamcrave squonker down

 

[Genosmate]

The water paper is for another project where i would like to sand the steamcrave squonker down

Sod that I'm too impatient I'd use paint stripper

 

[Christos]

Sod that I'm too impatient I'd use paint stripper

Excellent Idea! I have a bottle of what the guy told me was the strongest paint stripper he has ever stocked in my garage that I never used. Was going to remove a 40 year old linoleum floor in my house.
I got so tired of the floor that I just got the angle grinder out and put some heavy grit disks on a sanding pad and removed the linoleum, the glue beneath it and some of the screed on the floor
Wife wasn't too happy about the sand storm i kicked up that day.