Hex v3 potential issue, please advise - Fixed

[Jamminmon]

Good day fellow vapers,
Prior to 2 days ago, my hex v3 has been working like a champ. I'm running 2ohm coils, generally with the potentiometer on between 40-50 setting, have been since I've had the mod with the Reload RTA, and I've had the mod for almost 2 years now. So, as of 2 days ago, I noticed it wasnt performing as usual, I didnt pay any attention to it at first, just moved the POT up to 50, then again to 60, then to 70 and the vape still felt like it was pushing out less vapour over time. So today I was changing my wicks out and noticed during cleaning it was taking a long time to heat, much longer then usual. I even cranked it up to 100 and still take a long time to heat.
So I've opened her up to check all the connections, check there wasnt any residue/juice buildup or clogged and everything checks out fine. So I'm quite puzzled at this point. 1 day it was working as intended the next it wasnt.

My question is this, as on inspection there seems to be nothing wrong with the inners - the only conclusion I can arrive at is could the potentiometer possibly be faulty?
The potentiometer is a closed unit so it doesn't seem possible to inspect for faults.

Let me know your thoughts.

Respect

 

[blujeenz]

Good day fellow vapers,
Prior to 2 days ago, my hex v3 has been working like a champ. I'm running 2ohm coils, generally with the potentiometer on between 40-50 setting, have been since I've had the mod with the Reload RTA, and I've had the mod for almost 2 years now. So, as of 2 days ago, I noticed it wasnt performing as usual, I didnt pay any attention to it at first, just moved the POT up to 50, then again to 60, then to 70 and the vape still felt like it was pushing out less vapour over time. So today I was changing my wicks out and noticed during cleaning it was taking a long time to heat, much longer then usual. I even cranked it up to 100 and still take a long time to heat.
So I've opened her up to check all the connections, check there wasnt any residue/juice buildup or clogged and everything checks out fine. So I'm quite puzzled at this point. 1 day it was working as intended the next it wasnt.

My question is this, as on inspection there seems to be nothing wrong with the inners - the only conclusion I can arrive at is could the potentiometer possibly be faulty?
The potentiometer is a closed unit so it doesn't seem possible to inspect for faults.

Let me know your thoughts.

Respect

The pot should have wires/ connections that you can test with a multimeter while turning the pot, resistance should vary.
Its more likely the pots "wipers" have carboned up and you'd have to replace the pot.

Next item for failure would be the mosfet feeding the current to the 510 connection.

 

[OnePowerfulCorsa]

I hope when you say you opened it you mean just the inside tray and didn't actually open the screws as that voids the lifetime warranty. Have you put your reload on another mod to see if the resistance is not perhaps jumping as that can be an issue with the reload if the deck or the screw under the deck is not tight. If you can rule out it is not the rta then get in contact with Liquid Distro as they are the official repairers for Hexohm in SA.

 

[Grand Guru]

Aren’t these mods supposed to have a life guarantee? You should speak to your vendor.

 

[Jamminmon]

The pot should have wires/ connections that you can test with a multimeter while turning the pot, resistance should vary.
Its more likely the pots "wipers" have carboned up and you'd have to replace the pot.

Next item for failure would be the mosfet feeding the current to the 510 connection.

Thank you for your reply with regards to the POT, I tested the pot with a multimeter and it is okay, shows a range from 0.1 - 0.450 which is great so I ruled that out. Upon further inspection I noticed one of the two wires connected to the firing button were dangling by a thread, all but one of the wires within the sleeve were connected so I took it and soldered it as well as the other just to reinforce them both. Tested it and now it's even better then it was with my reinforcement (this could have potentially been the problem) although I'm surprised that would have passed final inspection upon leaving the manufacturer for sale. Then as you mentioned the 510 pin is next to go I pulled it out and inspected it to check that everything was okay on that front, it was, connected it to another mod and test fired and it is A-Okay. Happy with all the comprising parts being in good working order I put it all back together and tested it again, and low and behold it was back to normal. I realised I'd just effectively serviced my mod, and besides the firing button issue it also could have been more then one part not performing as it should and the service might've fixed/eliminated any other problems as well and potential problems. My next conclusion was that I might also need a new set of batteries, as my current have been through so many charge cycles that they are not performing as they should. When new they could last up to 2 day, now not even a full day. Luckily had some new ones I had made up for a RC controller, so I dismantled them, stuck them in and low and behold, she was back to her former glory.

In conclusion - it might not have been just one specific part but the sum of a few affected, and the service essentially sorted it out effectively.
I also now know my mod very intimately.

Thank you for you help and suggestions, you have been a big help bruvva.

Mad respect!

I hope when you say you opened it you mean just the inside tray and didn't actually open the screws as that voids the lifetime warranty. Have you put your reload on another mod to see if the resistance is not perhaps jumping as that can be an issue with the reload if the deck or the screw under the deck is not tight.

To answer you - the first thing I did was stick the RTA on another mod and test it out, I've experienced the pin/screw being loose before so I am intimately familiar with my Reload RTA and its inner workings.

To remove the battery tray one needs to remove screws, 2 sets of screws to be precise, one set of 4 screws holding the battery tray in place and a 2nd panel connected to the tray, and one set securing the +/- terminals to the board, only then can the tray be removed. So I'm not sure which screws you're referring to. If you wanted to say, customize your firing button and change it to another color, as Hexohm sells different firing buttons for that reason you'd have to removed said screws to do so. I dont think that would void the warranty, as you would have to send it in to have the firing button changed? I dont think Hexohm would release different color buttons and expect you to change them if that voided the warranty.
Secondly, just sending it in to be fixed is time consuming, and not always necessary, might be easier and quicker to diagnose yourself and order the defective part. Also, there is no 'warranty void if removed' sticker in the device and I think that would apply if you damaged any part and requested a new one free of charge/sent it in for RMA claiming its faulty when in fact it was user error/damage.

Thanks for your input too. Respect.

 

[Christos]

I had made up for a RC controller, so I dismantled them, stuck them in and low and behold, she was back to her former glory.

What batteries dod you have in your RC controller?
I would just like to confirm the rated amps of those batteries as they may not be up to scratch for high amp draw vaping.

 

[Jamminmon]

What batteries dod you have in your RC controller?
I would just like to confirm the rated amps of those batteries as they may not be up to scratch for high amp draw vaping.

Samsung INR 18650 -30Q

 

[OnePowerfulCorsa]

Thank you for your reply with regards to the POT, I tested the pot with a multimeter and it is okay, shows a range from 0.1 - 0.450 which is great so I ruled that out. Upon further inspection I noticed one of the two wires connected to the firing button were dangling by a thread, all but one of the wires within the sleeve were connected so I took it and soldered it as well as the other just to reinforce them both. Tested it and now it's even better then it was with my reinforcement (this could have potentially been the problem) although I'm surprised that would have passed final inspection upon leaving the manufacturer for sale. Then as you mentioned the 510 pin is next to go I pulled it out and inspected it to check that everything was okay on that front, it was, connected it to another mod and test fired and it is A-Okay. Happy with all the comprising parts being in good working order I put it all back together and tested it again, and low and behold it was back to normal. I realised I'd just effectively serviced my mod, and besides the firing button issue it also could have been more then one part not performing as it should and the service might've fixed/eliminated any other problems as well and potential problems. My next conclusion was that I might also need a new set of batteries, as my current have been through so many charge cycles that they are not performing as they should. When new they could last up to 2 day, now not even a full day. Luckily had some new ones I had made up for a RC controller, so I dismantled them, stuck them in and low and behold, she was back to her former glory.

In conclusion - it might not have been just one specific part but the sum of a few affected, and the service essentially sorted it out effectively.
I also now know my mod very intimately.

Thank you for you help and suggestions, you have been a big help bruvva.

Mad respect!



To answer you - the first thing I did was stick the RTA on another mod and test it out, I've experienced the pin/screw being loose before so I am intimately familiar with my Reload RTA and its inner workings.

To remove the battery tray one needs to remove screws, 2 sets of screws to be precise, one set of 4 screws holding the battery tray in place and a 2nd panel connected to the tray, and one set securing the +/- terminals to the board, only then can the tray be removed. So I'm not sure which screws you're referring to. If you wanted to say, customize your firing button and change it to another color, as Hexohm sells different firing buttons for that reason you'd have to removed said screws to do so. I dont think that would void the warranty, as you would have to send it in to have the firing button changed? I dont think Hexohm would release different color buttons and expect you to change them if that voided the warranty.
Secondly, just sending it in to be fixed is time consuming, and not always necessary, might be easier and quicker to diagnose yourself and order the defective part. Also, there is no 'warranty void if removed' sticker in the device and I think that would apply if you damaged any part and requested a new one free of charge/sent it in for RMA claiming its faulty when in fact it was user error/damage.

Thanks for your input too. Respect.

No need to open the mod to replace the button caps. They pop off and on. If you remove the screws the warranty is void. However it is your mod, you can do with it as you please. Glad you are sorted.

 

[Jamminmon]

No need to open the mod to replace the button caps. They pop off and on. If you remove the screws the warranty is void.

Ah good to know with regards to the button caps. To test the potentiometer I needed to remove the tray to gain access to the terminals. But yeh it's all sorted. It would be nice if they included a manual with purchase stating what voids warranty etc as there is no 'warranty void if removed' stickers or indicators. To be honest I'm not worried about the warranty at this point, as I've learned alot about the device and am happy to replace any parts that would need to be at my expense.