The Importance of a 521 Tab

foGGyrEader

Experienced Vaper
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Joined
21/11/15
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Location
Cape Town
I've had the charming experience of what happens when you first start building and you think you know better than the rest of the community ... The RTA is the Vaporesso Giant Dual (any vendors should not import this tank or should cancel their orders), and the wire I used were the pre-made Claptons. I screwed them in too tight and didn't check for shorts, it was at about 0.16 ohms at 70W so nearly 18 amps.

As you can see in the pics, the wire shorted, melted and then sprang against the chimney and welded onto it. Now I think I have busted my brand new Alien mod and I cannot be so dishonest to tell @Sir Vape that my mod is buggered, seeing that I'm the idiot who broke it ... can still vape but the menu acts weird sometimes.

innerweld.jpg outweld.jpg Wire.jpg

Enjoy :OHSHIT:
 
No, serious question. They're 7/8 wraps but if you don't know the exact gauges/materials used and they don't tell you in the package, it's hard to know. This is why I don't like coils that come with atties. When I make my own coils, I get an idea from Wire Wizard what sort of resistance they should be. If it's more than about 0.1Ω out when I put the atty on the mod, that throws up a red flag and I won't proceed with vaping until I've investigated further.

Edit: I just input some values into Wire Wizard for a 7.5 wrap Clapton 2.5mm ID with 30ga kanthal over 26ga kanthal core. It gives me around 1.16Ω. So a pair of them should finish up at about 0.58Ω. If I get 0.18Ω showing on the mod, there is a problem.

But then, if they use SS instead of kanthal, that is going to change markedly and drop the resistance greatly. So maybe 0.18Ω is in the ballpark for those coils. Either way, I want to know what to expect once I've installed the coils. If tank manufacturers won't tell me that, I'll rather roll my own coils than use the supplied ones.
 
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