You could even try Duran paint stripper.
It should also work.
It should also work.
Weekend Projects
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I would scar the lino with a cutting knife and use a onion bag to spread it over so it can penetrate and start softening the lino.
It's still going to be a tough job, but easier.
I tried a water based paint stripper last nite and while it works fairly well, it leaves a gummy residue behind that needed a lot of scrubbing with soap to remove.
Im concerned that the tile adhesive might not stick to that area now.
I also tried a towel soaked in water to soften the paper bits but it wasn't very effective.
Guess its a trip to CTM for some adhesive remover.
Thanks for the info, I had YT'd lino removal and tried most of the methods.
Best so far is @Resistance suggestion of TFC glue remover, doesnt clean as thoroughly as paint stripper, but theres less leftover residue.
The pong is something else though.
Then all you do is chip the floor and get alcolin bonding liquid. Mix bonding liquid with tile adhesive or cement and a very little water and slurry the floor.
Best bonding liquid is alcolin don't settle for anything less.
Forgot to add. Water is there to dilute it a little and you know when your slurry is perfect when it has a blue tinge.
You can tile directly to the slurried floor so paint it as you go along or slurry the floor and let it dry. Then dilute the bonding liquid in water and mix tile adhesive. Then tile.
My buksie way of grouting, bigger bottle is for larger areas, dont know if there's a pro tool for the job, but I found the squeegee method very messy with lots of sponging afterwards.
Spackle tool!
Looks good bro.
I actually meant the grout bottle, like perhaps there's a similar version like a caulking gun.
I'm using various scrapers/ spackle tools, but find a silicone rubber spatula works best.
I'll probably try using the silicone tube from my caulking gun when its empty.
Post a link please
Friday project - getting new security sliding gates installed
What's Chow chows name?
Shooooweeeeee you guys have been busy whilst I was AWOL / on sabbatical, and I almost feel a little inadequate posting my Sunday post braai garage tinkering project 
Not being really big on wood projects, decided on a simple stand for my dripper tanks earlier ... I cut, planed, drilled and sanded a piece of oak, cut a few pieces of 8mm copper tubing and epoxied them into the holes, and then tapped them to M7 Superfine, and now my drippers have a home too
;
Not being really big on wood projects, decided on a simple stand for my dripper tanks earlier ... I cut, planed, drilled and sanded a piece of oak, cut a few pieces of 8mm copper tubing and epoxied them into the holes, and then tapped them to M7 Superfine, and now my drippers have a home too
; 
@Intuthu Kagesi where did you get that tap?
M7 * 0.5 (Super fine) are like Hen's teeth in SA .. I replaced a broken one from THT Tools in Boksburg a few months back, (they come as a set of first and second tap and cost around R350 as I recall) ... else you can try Daniel @ MetroTool on (011) 822-2130.
You'll also need a decent 6.5mm drill bit that either of them can supply
Just finished my Eagle 66 oil can style copy. I wanted something better than the generic plastic squeezer, always looking for the cap.
I used 2 black oxide allen screws but the top one lost its oxide when brazing, hence the odd looking 1 black and 1 silver.
Thats a 1.0mm mig tip for the nozzle soldered onto a short section of brake tubing.
Anyhow, didnt want to buy a full length of 50mm dia Al tubing so I figured I'd just cast everything.
My first foray into sodium silicate sand cores.
Something went wrong with the 2nd casting of the cap and valve body, riser didnt get any flow and the result was shrinkage and a swiss cheese like porosity.
A view inside of the valve body which uses 2 small bearing balls as the check valves.
A cut away from the pdf.
Final iteration, just looking for a suitable plunger spring, 7mm od x 15mm long.
Not having much luck bending music wire.
EDIT: used a spring from a carbon brush for an electric drill, works just fine.
I used 2 black oxide allen screws but the top one lost its oxide when brazing, hence the odd looking 1 black and 1 silver.
Thats a 1.0mm mig tip for the nozzle soldered onto a short section of brake tubing.
Anyhow, didnt want to buy a full length of 50mm dia Al tubing so I figured I'd just cast everything.
My first foray into sodium silicate sand cores.
Something went wrong with the 2nd casting of the cap and valve body, riser didnt get any flow and the result was shrinkage and a swiss cheese like porosity.
A view inside of the valve body which uses 2 small bearing balls as the check valves.
A cut away from the pdf.
Final iteration, just looking for a suitable plunger spring, 7mm od x 15mm long.
Not having much luck bending music wire.
EDIT: used a spring from a carbon brush for an electric drill, works just fine.
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Very impressive!
One day when I’m older and have the time!
This is FANTASTIC ... Well done man!
If you want to go the extra mile and blacken the protruding bits ... try these guys, https://www.sunbeamtech.co.za/blackfast, they have a 20 ml kit for smallish projects
Actually forgot about this thread. The latest incarnation of the “Rainmaker”.
Regards
Regards
Looks like I need to take some tips from you ... I want to improve upon the existing interstage cooler / moisture removal on my Bauer Compressor
You can call it the Rainmaker but I've told you before that the stuff it produces isn't water.
... and there we were with woodwork again, knocking up a few tank stands for mates that clearly have too many tanks 
I must say that I much prefer working with metals, and I take my hat off to all the carpenters out there, this sh## is clearly more of an art than a science
I must say that I much prefer working with metals, and I take my hat off to all the carpenters out there, this sh## is clearly more of an art than a science
Finally decided I need a DRO on my mill, went the cheap route with a caliper from Machinery Mart.
The nice thing is that you can touch the work piece and then zero the vernier and then drill to a precise depth, something not possible with the oem analog scale.
The nice thing is that you can touch the work piece and then zero the vernier and then drill to a precise depth, something not possible with the oem analog scale.
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