DIY: iStick 20w 3400mah

How long did the original last?

I've had it for 10mths, 5 of those months were every day use, then I got a Reo which made the istick a juice tasting/back up device, so on a full charge it would last 2 days.




On a side note : I checked the voltage of the cell I took out with a multi meter, came in on 3.28v :CHALLENGECONSIDERED:
 
So just an update.

On a side note : I checked the voltage of the cell I took out with a multi meter, came in on 3.28v :CHALLENGECONSIDERED:

I thought there was something fishy about that voltage reading of 3.28v. I finally had to put it on charge and alas......it isnt charging :hit:

Must be something wrong on the charging board, hopefully its a easy fix or I'll start my sqounk ah-la iStick box mod project sooner....sheeesh what a mouthful:p
 
So just an update.



I thought there was something fishy about that voltage reading of 3.28v. I finally had to put it on charge and alas......it isnt charging :hit:

Must be something wrong on the charging board, hopefully its a easy fix or I'll start my sqounk ah-la iStick box mod project sooner....sheeesh what a mouthful:p
Well that sucks, so it was the charging port and not the battery at fault all along?
 
Well that sucks, so it was the charging port and not the battery at fault all along?

Yeah man, I think the cell I took out is fine.
Its weird though, when I plug it in, to charge, it shows on the LCD that its charging as it should but once you remove the plug it shows up empty, so somewhere there's a dry solder point or something. I'm just hoping I can fix it, I love the form factor of the istick, it makes for a handy little back up device to carry alongside my Reo.
 
@DoubleD to confirm the battery is OK or not, connect with croc-clips (or even washing pegs will do as long as it makes contact) to a standard 18650 battery charger and see if it charges up to 4.2V. For dry joint repair, take a soldering iron and some thin solder; 0.7mm (max). Touch each component solder joint while applying very little solder - when the solder melts and start to shine, take away the solder iron tip. There are only a few components around a typical charger control ic (integrated circuit).
 
@DoubleD to confirm the battery is OK or not, connect with croc-clips (or even washing pegs will do as long as it makes contact) to a standard 18650 battery charger and see if it charges up to 4.2V. For dry joint repair, take a soldering iron and some thin solder; 0.7mm (max). Touch each component solder joint while applying very little solder - when the solder melts and start to shine, take away the solder iron tip. There are only a few components around a typical charger control ic (integrated circuit).

Thank you for that, I'll give it a bash. So far I've connected the 'old' cell to the charger as per your advice and it looks as if it is charging but I'll report back when its done. Now I just need to get my soldering skills up to scratch :rolleyes: :tmi:
 
@johan , so the 'old' cell charged up perfectly, reading at 4.2v. Guess my soldering skills will be put to the test this weekend :ONTHESPOT:
 
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