Johan,please don't weaken and get one of these things
I'm so weak that I only dare use my Reo, Woody and ePipe, all with long lasting no need to suck 26G Kanthal. Not brave enough to venture into something that will cause the "bends".
Impressions of the gCeramic 0.9 ohm coil in a Trinity bell cap.
- Thread starter DaveH
- Start date
I'm so weak that I only dare use my Reo, Woody and ePipe, all with long lasting no need to suck 26G Kanthal. Not brave enough to venture into something that will cause the "bends".
Mmm, ............. time for a refill - doesn't last long or I'm vaping too much.
Dave
Dave
I started typing my experiences on this setup in this thread, but it became a long comparison between 4 different Subtank Mini coils I've been testing over the past week. So I made a separate thread. Here is a link if anyone is interested (Newest version SSOCC Stock 0.5ohm, SSOCC Clapton 0.5ohm, GCeramic, GClapton)
http://www.ecigssa.co.za/more-coil-wars-subtank-only-coils-compared.t20987/
http://www.ecigssa.co.za/more-coil-wars-subtank-only-coils-compared.t20987/
I'm going to try another gCeramic coil in one of my Subtank minis see how that goes. A pity these gCeramic coils don't fit the Cubis. Different juice still 70/30 and 6mg
Dave
Dave
Primed the coil in a syringe by pulling the plunger out with my thumb over the exit hole, I did this 5-6 times. Loaded the coil into the tank base, filled the tank with juice. Again started at 15 Watts increasing 2 Watts at a time but this time after each firing I sucked through the mouth piece with the air intake sealed to expel any air in the coil head. I carried on normal vaping at 23 Watts and every 6 to 9 vapes I just suck through the mouth piece with the air intake sealed (no power) just to make sure there is no air in the coil head.
Piece of cake
Dave
Piece of cake
Dave
Thanks for the advice @DaveH but this is starting to sound like some serious PT to have a couple of puffsNo flavour - seems odd, I really don't know what to say.
I think the syringe method does help it, but also with the coil in the tank sucking on the mouth piece with the air holes completely closed does seem to help as well. Sucking on mine now produces no air bubbles.
The flavour is great I can feel it 'dancing on my tongue'
Dave
Well,I followed the @DaveH method yesterday afternoon and vaped the tank for the rest of the day,still juice left in the tank so left it overnight and gave it another go this morning.................
It's better than my initial try with the coil where I followed Atom's instructions to the letter with the addition of the 'vacuum syringe' thing.
But I don't think its a good as the same Companies GClaptons and from what I remember I'd say the stock Kanger coils are better as well.
Comparing it to a Bellus (which has modified air holes) which is the only other tank I have I would say the Bellus wins hands down in terms of flavour,vapour production and throat hit.
I was really hoping this would be a step up from anything I've tried but at the moment for me anyway,its not.
I'll persevere.
It's better than my initial try with the coil where I followed Atom's instructions to the letter with the addition of the 'vacuum syringe' thing.
But I don't think its a good as the same Companies GClaptons and from what I remember I'd say the stock Kanger coils are better as well.
Comparing it to a Bellus (which has modified air holes) which is the only other tank I have I would say the Bellus wins hands down in terms of flavour,vapour production and throat hit.
I was really hoping this would be a step up from anything I've tried but at the moment for me anyway,its not.
I'll persevere.
I have just filled the Trinity Bellcap for the 5th time (bearing in mind the 1st tank was only half).
I'm not chain vaping any more, just my normal vape.
After the coil has rested for a short time (5 mins) and cooled down there is hardly any vapor with the first puff @20 Watts at 30 watts it is fine except I find the vapor a little on the warm side for me. At 24/25 Watts just about right but I do sometimes have to fire it 2 seconds before I vape on it.
Further like others have said it needs a long gentle draw to appreciate the full flavour of the vape.
Last night I did try to push it at 30 watts (and chain vape) to see what happens. The vape gets really hot (burns my lip) even holding the fire until the mod displays "over 10 seconds" I did not get a dry hit. The bottom of the tank and the top of the mod get extremely hot (nearly too hot to touch), the flavour changed and not for the better - a strange taste, no where near as bad as burnt cotton, nevertheless something got too hot, could be burnt juice, not sure what it was - not nice though.
After a 30 min cool down it was back to normal @ 24 Watts with no strange taste and a full flavour vape and a nice throat hit.
That's really all I can say - I do like them, I like the flavour and maybe, just maybe, these coils suit my type of vaping.
I'm now mainly interested how long they will last before something goes wrong.
Dave
I'm not chain vaping any more, just my normal vape.
After the coil has rested for a short time (5 mins) and cooled down there is hardly any vapor with the first puff @20 Watts at 30 watts it is fine except I find the vapor a little on the warm side for me. At 24/25 Watts just about right but I do sometimes have to fire it 2 seconds before I vape on it.
Further like others have said it needs a long gentle draw to appreciate the full flavour of the vape.
Last night I did try to push it at 30 watts (and chain vape) to see what happens. The vape gets really hot (burns my lip) even holding the fire until the mod displays "over 10 seconds" I did not get a dry hit. The bottom of the tank and the top of the mod get extremely hot (nearly too hot to touch), the flavour changed and not for the better
- a strange taste, no where near as bad as burnt cotton, nevertheless something got too hot, could be burnt juice, not sure what it was - not nice though. After a 30 min cool down it was back to normal @ 24 Watts with no strange taste and a full flavour vape and a nice throat hit.
That's really all I can say - I do like them, I like the flavour and maybe, just maybe, these coils suit my type of vaping.
I'm now mainly interested how long they will last before something goes wrong.
Dave
On tank fill number 8 for the Bellcap.
The ceramic still looks clean, the pink part is the o'ring.
Dave
The ceramic still looks clean, the pink part is the o'ring.
Dave
One thing I don't like about the Kangertech coil heads is the holes for the juice to wick through is half way up the coil head. I have always though it would be better if it was lower down. It is very easy for the juice level in the tank to drop below the wicking holes without noticing and getting a dry hit.
I have done the following before on the normal Kanger coil heads. I really can't say if it makes any difference or not.
This is what I have done.
The coil head is pulled apart and the hole is elongated to form a slot all the way to the bottom.
The inner of the coil head is rotated to align the two slots
The two parts are pushed together
Good to go
It was done in a hurry so it is a bit rough and ready.
Still works using it now, whether it makes any difference to the wicking properties of the coil head I really can't say.
Dave
I have done the following before on the normal Kanger coil heads. I really can't say if it makes any difference or not.
This is what I have done.
The coil head is pulled apart and the hole is elongated to form a slot all the way to the bottom.
The inner of the coil head is rotated to align the two slots
The two parts are pushed together
Good to go
It was done in a hurry so it is a bit rough and ready.
Still works
using it now, whether it makes any difference to the wicking properties of the coil head I really can't say.Dave
I'm of the impression that the 'dry hits' some of you get with these gCeramic coils is not primary due to poor wicking. Obviously the 'dry hit' one gets is because the wicking material has no juice to dissipate the heat thus a 'dry hit'. However I believe the 'dry hits' from these gCeramic coils manifests itself only in the top millimeter or two of the ceramic coil.
Ceramics are poor conductors of heat, that means they retain the heat quite well and as we all know hot air rises. This surely means the top part of the ceramic coils must get much hotter than the lower part of the ceramic coil. If the top part of the ceramic coil is hotter there will come a time when the top part of the ceramic is so hot that the wicking material is unable to hold the juice in liquid form and the juice is constantly being evaporated. The lower part of the ceramic coil because it is cooler will be saturated with juice, firing the coil will cause the lower part of the coil to vaporize the juice however the top part of the ceramic coil has very little liquid juice around it because it has already been vaporized. With no liquid to vaporize the heat is dissipated into the wicking material and causes the 'dry hit'.
Just a thought or two - any comments.
Dave
Edit: Removed the word 'heat' and replaced it with 'hot air' (technically more correct). Thank you @Duffie12
Ceramics are poor conductors of heat, that means they retain the heat quite well and as we all know hot air rises. This surely means the top part of the ceramic coils must get much hotter than the lower part of the ceramic coil. If the top part of the ceramic coil is hotter there will come a time when the top part of the ceramic is so hot that the wicking material is unable to hold the juice in liquid form and the juice is constantly being evaporated. The lower part of the ceramic coil because it is cooler will be saturated with juice, firing the coil will cause the lower part of the coil to vaporize the juice however the top part of the ceramic coil has very little liquid juice around it because it has already been vaporized. With no liquid to vaporize the heat is dissipated into the wicking material and causes the 'dry hit'.
Just a thought or two - any comments.
Dave
Edit: Removed the word 'heat' and replaced it with 'hot air' (technically more correct). Thank you @Duffie12
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I'm of the impression that the 'dry hits' some of you get with these gCeramic coils is not primary due to poor wicking. Obviously the 'dry hit' one gets is because the wicking material has no juice to dissipate the heat thus a 'dry hit'. However I believe the 'dry hits' from these gCeramic coils manifests itself only in the top millimeter or two of the ceramic coil.
Ceramics are poor conductors of heat, that means they retain the heat quite well and as we all know heat rises. This surely means the top part of the ceramic coils must get much hotter than the lower part of the ceramic coil. If the top part of the ceramic coil is hotter there will come a time when the top part of the ceramic is so hot that the wicking material is unable to hold the juice in liquid form and the juice is constantly being evaporated. The lower part of the ceramic coil because it is cooler will be saturated with juice, firing the coil will cause the lower part of the coil to vaporize the juice however the top part of the ceramic coil has very little liquid juice around it because it has already been vaporized. With no liquid to vaporize the heat is dissipated into the wicking material and causes the 'dry hit'.
Just a thought or two - any comments.
Dave
It is hot air which rises, not necessarily heat itself. Hot air as a gas expands making it less dense that the cooler air and then it rises.
Of course your theory may be correct, perhaps for different reasons, for example the inner part of the ceramic wick where the coil is gets hotter first and the outer piece coils quicker because of the surrounding liquid?
You are quite right it is the hot air that rises, that causes the top part to become hotter
Dave
Dave
I just don't see it solely as a wicking problem, there is more to it.
Dave
Dave
Thanks @Silver, I am sure a lot of work and effort has been put into the development of these ceramic coils and credit to all those involved.
Dave
Any tips on getting the thing apart please?One thing I don't like about the Kangertech coil heads is the holes for the juice to wick through is half way up the coil head. I have always though it would be better if it was lower down. It is very easy for the juice level in the tank to drop below the wicking holes without noticing and getting a dry hit.
I have done the following before on the normal Kanger coil heads. I really can't say if it makes any difference or not.
This is what I have done.
The coil head is pulled apart and the hole is elongated to form a slot all the way to the bottom.
View attachment 49410
The inner of the coil head is rotated to align the two slots
View attachment 49411
The two parts are pushed together
View attachment 49412
Good to go
View attachment 49413
It was done in a hurry so it is a bit rough and ready.
Still works
Dave
I planned to try something similar but the first one I tried worked OK (but I had already drilled it and stuffed it up),second one ******! and the last one the thing separated hard to explain but the red arrow points to what I mean.
Hi @Genosmate They are very difficult if not impossible to take apart without damaging some part of it. I damaged the outer casing by using a Dremel on it and cutting a slot on each side, this allowed me to pull the thing apart. I don't think it is a deliberate action by the manufacturers to stop anyone taking it apart any press fit of two parts can be difficult to take apart without causing damage.
I tried to pull it apart and failed, I thought about using a pair of pliers on the threaded part to help get a grip and pull it apart but I was certain it would damage the threaded part and make it unusable. I decided to cut the slots in situ and after both slots were cut it came apart reasonable easy.
I have cut two slots in another one (for some unexplained reason
) this time it was done on a milling machine and the coil head held in a machine vice.Ended up with this.
However it was held in the vice and machined when it was like this. It only came apart after the two slots were cut.
Dave
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Thanks @DaveH,first one I tried I decided to drill it,but hit the internal casing thats when I pulled it apart for a look see and it came apart easy enough.
Thats when I tried to pull apart two more and failed so gave up.
Got some sitting in pure VG and got nothing to lose except another 80 bucks so I'll sling one on the mill
Thats when I tried to pull apart two more and failed so gave up.
Got some sitting in pure VG and got nothing to lose except another 80 bucks so I'll sling one on the mill
Refill No. 10 on the Bellcap so just over 30ml vaped.
It is still vaping with a very nice flavour, I vape the same juice in a Cubis to compare.
Perhaps a little unfair because the Bellcap is vaped at 22 Watts and the Cubis at 14 Watts.
There are a few things I have noticed.
i) I need to press the fire button 2-3 seconds before I vape otherwise there is not much vapor. (Especially when cold)
ii)There is more leaking from the air holes than with the normal Kangertech coils.
iii)Sometimes (and not always) the final part of the draw is much hotter.
iv)If I hold the tank upside down the juice readily flows from the mouth piece.
Those listed above are all downers for me, and don't make it a good coil (for me). However if the life of these coils are in the region of 40 tanks I would consider being a regular user.
It also seems to me the 'hype' far exceeded the actual use of these gCeramic coils, mainly the large variations in the results of their usage is a major concern. Summing up there is a broad lack of consistency in the use of these coils.
Dave
It is still vaping with a very nice flavour, I vape the same juice in a Cubis to compare.
Perhaps a little unfair because the Bellcap is vaped at 22 Watts and the Cubis at 14 Watts.
There are a few things I have noticed.
i) I need to press the fire button 2-3 seconds before I vape otherwise there is not much vapor. (Especially when cold)
ii)There is more leaking from the air holes than with the normal Kangertech coils.
iii)Sometimes (and not always) the final part of the draw is much hotter.
iv)If I hold the tank upside down the juice readily flows from the mouth piece.
Those listed above are all downers for me, and don't make it a good coil (for me). However if the life of these coils are in the region of 40 tanks I would consider being a regular user.
It also seems to me the 'hype' far exceeded the actual use of these gCeramic coils, mainly the large variations in the results of their usage is a major concern. Summing up there is a broad lack of consistency in the use of these coils.
Dave
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@DaveH has tried just about everything to get these coils to work better and Atom would need a bigger box to include the extra instructions to date!
Here's another they could try adding,buy a vacuum chamber and pump for a gazillion bucks put the coils in and pull a vacuum to around 29 in - hg and wait.........................well now they seem a bit better but its costly
Here's another they could try adding,buy a vacuum chamber and pump for a gazillion bucks put the coils in and pull a vacuum to around 29 in - hg and wait.........................well now they seem a bit better but its costly
I need a chamber and pump!
I
I think its more cost effective to send them to someone in possession of said pumping equipment BTW I said that they are better I didn't say they were goodI need a chamber and pump!
I
I think its more cost effective to send them to someone in possession of said pumping equipment BTW I said that they are better I didn't say they were good
Ahhhh better is all relative... the pain of having an arm hacked off is not cool but hacking off just an hand is better?
OK cancel order for pressure tank and pump!
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