Just get a RX200 with the Crius v3 velocity deck and don't look back.
Or the RX200 with the Griffin RDA
Or the RX200 with the Griffin RDA
Intro to Vaping + The Subox Mini
- Thread starter free3dom
- Start date
Got the subox mini, can't wait to fire it up. Fakes must be a huge problem in this industry.
Lucky! I wish I was firing up mine for the first time all over again
I am a noob with mods. Recently got a Subox mini, and loving it. I have a couple of questions. I have checked the thread but can't seem to find all the answers
- On 1.5 ohm stock coil, I can't Vape above 17 watts, without getting a burning taste, what would be the reason ?
- I vape about 5ml a day, how long can I expect a coil to last ?
- Other than cost, what are the benefits to building coils over buying stock coils ?
- I have noticed liquid in the airflow section of the tank every now and then. Should this be a concern ?
- Are the airflow adjustments just for cloud production, or does it have other functions ?
- What sort of maintenance should I be giving the device ? The reason I ask, is my pen style device needs to be kept in tip-top shape to get a decent tasting vape, yet this device seems to just keep working. I have done nothing in the last 2 weeks, other than charge and re-fill juice.
1. It could be the wicking, but in all honesty I couldn't explain why, I don't have much experience with a 1.5ohm setup.
2. I reckon a stock coil would last a little over a week at that rate.
3. Benefits to rebuilding - Custom made flavour and taste, also, it's just fun!
4. Unless that liquid is ending up EVERYWHERE, then no, chances are its just something else, but no reason for concern unless it's consistent!
5. The airflow is there as it can effect flavour and cloud production, but also so you can choose what suits your vaping-style better. I like lung hits so its better to keep it wide open, but for MTL (which I gather you're after), the smaller setting is best.
6. That's the beauty of the Subox! Make sure you clean your tank though, good hygiene practices are essential, remember that you're putting your mouth on that thing all day. Would you use a fork for two weeks with no cleaning? Probably not
Hope this helps a bit!
At 1.5ohm with 17 watts you are pulling around 5 volts which way too hot for the cotton to keep up. It is burning the cotton, hence the burnt taste. A 1.5ohm coil is best vaper around 12 watts, or 3.4 to 4.2 volts (you can see the voltage on the screen when you press the fire button).
- On 1.5 ohm stock coil, I can't Vape above 17 watts, without getting a burning taste, what would be the reason ? That is then the max for your specific coil. Try not to vape it to that point as it won't last as long. For higher power try the 0.5 ohm coil.
- I vape about 5ml a day, how long can I expect a coil to last ? Difficult to say, but at 5 ml a day it could last 2 weeks if not abused. You will get the dud coil from time to time. You will taste when the coil needs changing.
- Other than cost, what are the benefits to building coils over buying stock coils ? Better flavour, less liquid in the airflow section if wicked right. You can build the coil to a resistance you like. A built coil can last for a long time (2 months about), you only need to dry burn the coil and re-wick from time to time.
- I have noticed liquid in the airflow section of the tank every now and then. Should this be a concern ? No, clean it out when you change juices.
- Are the airflow adjustments just for cloud production, or does it have other functions ? As answered above.
- What sort of maintenance should I be giving the device ? The reason I ask, is my pen style device needs to be kept in tip-top shape to get a decent tasting vape, yet this device seems to just keep working. I have done nothing in the last 2 weeks, other than charge and re-fill juice. As per above.
Wow, that was easy. Put together the RBA, and it works nicely, measured at 0.57 ohms, definitely stronger than the stock coil i have been using. Can run at 20 watts and no dry hits/burnt taste, nice strong favour, but can feel the vape is getting warmer, probably won't go any higher. As mentioned above very easy and forgiving RTA setup. Now time to play around with lower resistance coils
@WARMACHINE , I would try the 0.5 ohm coil, I started on the .5 after using the twisps .. Flavor is great .. Clouds are good and you can up the wattage for a warmer vape
And very difficult to return to the commercial coils once you have done the RBA! Only for emergencies.@Chezzig...I am rocking my RBA at 0.57 ohms, and it is great....really nice
Thanks a mil awsum post☺☺...and on and on we go
The top part of the tank is called a 510 "drip tip". These are a standard as well and you can buy a wide variety of styles and looks which are interchangeable. To remove/replace it (for cleaning or replacement) simply pull on it and push it back in when done (there is an o-ring around the bottom which ensure a tight fit.
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Now before you start using a new coil - every time you replace the coil - you need to "prime" it. This simply means getting some juice in there so that when the coil heats up there is something to vapourize. Failure to do so can ruin your coil by causing what we refer to as a "dry hit" - basically you are burning the cotton wick and inhaling smoke in this case, so it's something to avoid. The same thing happens when your tank runs out of juice, so make sure to fill it up when the juice level falls below the wicking holes of the coil (shown earlier). To prime the coil, hold it at around a 45 degree angle and drip a drop or two of e-liquid (not too much) into the coil - flip it to each of the 4 sides and repeat, just to be safe.
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Now you can fill up your tank and screw the base onto it (again, I'll show filling at the end). And this is what it will look like (except there will be juice in there)
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Now simply line up the bottom of the tank with the hole on the mod and screw it down (turn the tank clockwise). Turn it all the way down, but don't overdo it as that can make it difficult to remove again later on. And now (very important) wait for about a minute or two before you start vaping with the tank upright as pictured below - this allows the juice to saturate the wick in the coil (again to prevent a dry hit and ruin your brand new coil). You should do this every time you replace the coil!
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While you are waiting, let's have a quick look at operating the mod, and the information presented on the screen. As mentioned earlier, the big button is the fire button - you'll hold this down while you are drawing air through the top of the tank (for the entire duration as vaporization stops when you let go of the button). The two smaller buttons (they have + and - symbols indented on them) are for adjusting power. Power determines how warm the coil will get and hence how warm the vapour you inhale will be. However, the coils have limits to how much power you can apply without causing the dreaded dry hit. These are printed on a piece of paper included in the box, and also varies based on the thickness of the juice you use (indicates as the VG ratio of the juice). Follow these guides to prevent getting dry hits.
So with the 1.5 Ohm coil you have installed I'd recommend anywhere between 10W and 20W (if you are unsure, start low and increase until you find a setting you like). Push (and hold) one of the little buttons (+/-) until you reach your desired power setting.
The other info you'll notice on the screen is the battery indicator on the left - which (surprise, surprise) shows how much battery power you have left. When the power runs out this light will flash and you will need to replace the battery to carry on vaping.
The 1.6 Ohm value at the bottom is the resistance of the installed coil (we are using the 1.5 Ohm coil, a 0.1 variance is totally acceptable). Don't worry too much about this value, but note that if there is some problem with either the coil or the connection between the tank and the mod, this number will turn to 9.99 Ohm and will flash. In this case you may need to replace the coil, or make sure that the tank is screwed on properly.
The 0.0V value at the top is the amount of voltage being applied. This value changes when you push the fire button and is just an indicator of the value calculated and used by the device based on your set power level. You can read up on Ohm's Law if you are interested, but for now simply know it is there.
View attachment 29736
The mod has a range of 7W to 50W (as pictured below).
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Rebuilding and the RBA Base
This section is intended for "later use" when you reach the level where you want to start experimenting with making your own coils. However, the RBA base already comes with a coil (0.5 Ohm) installed it only needs to be wicked. So here I will show this just for interest sake and for those who are upgrading to this for this purpose specifically.
KangerTech has completely redesigned the RBA base and I can now safely say that when set-up correctly it wicks any type of juice (including max VG) perfectly without any dry hits at high power and while chain vaping.
Here it is in all it's glory. Notice how the cap is no longer threaded, and the little screw you see is used to keep it in place. The large visible hole now replaces the juice channels and works very similar to the commercial coils.
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Unscrewing the screw by a little bit allows the top section to come off, and this is what it looks like. Notice the notch in the cap, which should be aligned with the screw when placing it back on.
View attachment 29740
This is the factory installed 0.5 Ohm coil, and it has seen some vaping already
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When you want to use this RBA base for the first time, all you need to do is wick it. There is some Japanese cotton included in the box, so you already have everything you need. To get started cut a section off the pad (in the long direction) about 1.5 the width of the coil. Unfortunately I didn't measure mine, but it's quite forgiving and you can just approximate it. Next pull the thin top/bottom layers off the strip (the left/right bits in the image below) which leave a soft and fluffy strip (the right bit below) to work with.
View attachment 29744
Now take the strip and roll one end into a small tip (small and long enough to fit through the coil). Then stick it through the coil and pull it through - make sure it goes through tightly, but not too tight as it may bend the coil. If it is too tight, remove the strip and cut a small sliver off then try again. If it is too loose, cut a wider piece. Initially this will take some experimentation, but it soon becomes second nature.
View attachment 29745
Once you have the wick through, pull it until there is roughly the amount pictured below on one side, and then cut off the excess on the other side to match. It should look about like the image below.
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Now you need to put the top cap back on (make sure to align the notch with the screw) by lifting the wick ends up while sliding the cap down over them. You should end up with something as pictured below. Once this is done, make sure to fasten the screw at the base of the top cap again - it doesn't have to be tight, just not in the way.
View attachment 29747
Finally, take a small screwdriver (flat head recommended) and gently push the wick tails down into the top cap. It should look something like below. The nice thing about this new RBA is that it is very forgiving with wicking.
View attachment 29748
Make sure that the cotton completely covers the wicking holes on both sides of the top cap.
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At this point, you should take some juice and prime the wick by dripping some juice onto the cotton - get it nice and saturated, but don't overdo it (I didn't take a picture, but it's as simple as applying juice to cotton).
The just screw the top part back onto the cap, and your RBA is ready to go.
View attachment 29751
Basically now the RBA is exactly the same as a commercial coil
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Just screw it into the base, and screw the tank onto the base - after filling...it's coming, I promise!
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Filling the SubTank with E-liquid (finally!)
One of the main reasons I really love the atomizer included in this kit (and the SubTanks that came before it) is how easy it is to fill with e-liquid.
So here's what you do. Turn the tank upside down, with the drip tip facing down - you can even remove the drip tip and make it stand on it's head which is very stable and makes it a hands-free operation. Now take your favourite e-liquid (I've used some Pink Lady from The E-liquid Project range) and drip the juice into the tank (avoiding the middle section). For maximum capacity fill it up to about 1-2mm below the top of that middle section - as seen in the image below.
View attachment 29755
Now take your base, with coil or RBA installed and turn it over and screw it into the tank while leaving the whole thing upside down. Once it is screwed in turn it over and screw it onto your mod. Leave it for a minute or two (with the RBA you can skip this if you primed the wick enough) and then vape it!
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A Nice Touch from KangerTech
Inside the box you will find this little strip with some stickers. The reason for these are not immediately obvious, so let me explain it quickly.
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As can be seen in the image below, the "K" logo on the battery door is a cutout - it is there for venting reasons, and also to look nice. So depending on the battery you use (I've used a black re-wrapped battery) the color will be visible through this hole. These stickers can be placed on your batteries so that the part showing through the hole matches the rest of the device's color highlights (red on the black model and black on the white model). This is completely unneeded, but an really nice touch - kudos to KangerTech for going the extra mile.
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And that is that, hopefully this has provided enough information to get you going with your brand new (and awesome) device.
Enjoy the vaping
I installed a geekvape clapton on the RBA. 0.7 ohm resistance, works so well, and so easy to build
the subox mini was my second mod kit, and its safe to say, I miss her.Lucky! I wish I was firing up mine for the first time all over again
Hi all. I am new to vaping and this forum.
I bought a Twisp Aero about 2 weeks ago and it's great. Within a week I was down from 20 a day to 5 a day and I love vaping. Only problem I had with the Aero is liquid in my mouth regularly. It once leaked a stain in my breast pocket.
Because of this post I bought myself the KangerTech Topbox mini. Thank you for the post and all the useful information. I personally appreciate the effort because it solved a puzzle for a newbie like me.
One question about the Topbox: is the vape always so hot? Even on 25w. When I vape it I hear a splatter and get hot liquid on my lips. The mouthpiece even burns my lips a little.
Thanks again
I bought a Twisp Aero about 2 weeks ago and it's great. Within a week I was down from 20 a day to 5 a day and I love vaping. Only problem I had with the Aero is liquid in my mouth regularly. It once leaked a stain in my breast pocket.
Because of this post I bought myself the KangerTech Topbox mini. Thank you for the post and all the useful information. I personally appreciate the effort because it solved a puzzle for a newbie like me.
One question about the Topbox: is the vape always so hot? Even on 25w. When I vape it I hear a splatter and get hot liquid on my lips. The mouthpiece even burns my lips a little.
Thanks again
Good upgrade that! It shouldn't be doing that, what coils are you using? Factory ones or the rebuiladable one?
Try the higher resistance coil at 15W-18W. I am going to guess that your coil is flooding a bit, this is usually caused by combination of the amount of suction vs the wattage. The equation is the harder you drag on it the higher the wattage and the more open the air flow must be set. If the wattage is too low and/or the airflow is tight with lots of suction applied, excessive liquid is taken into the coil which cannot be vaporised leading to spitting and eventually leaking out the bottom. It is the BIG failure of top/subtanks and affects practically 1 in 5 of all new users of it.
Hi, I am using the KangerTech Clapton Coil 0.5ohm 18-70w.
Thanks
Hi. Thanks. I will try opening to the biggest vent.
To get a fresh start, flip the tank upside down, remove the coil wipe it off and blow through the top, catch the liquid coming out the bottom with a tissue. Also check that liquid has not started accumulating in the base below the coil..
Thanks. Did all of that and it is better now.
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