Phantus Mini Mechanical Box Mod

[WARMACHINE]

Anyone have one these mods. I am interested as it looks like a mech mod that doesn't have the parallel battery mod dangers. The weight is not an issue for me, as this would be my mancave/gaming device. Questions I have:

• What resistance builds are suggested for the 18350 / 800mAh / 10A battery ?
• It says it takes 22mm tanks, any suggestions - Subtank or Cirius ?
• Any others comments

 

[Vapington]

18350s will not support low subohm as they cannot handle the amps. So you probably only safe 0.5 and up. Battery life will also be minimal. Very cool mod but limited in key areas. Do not think you are safe because it is not dual batteries though - a mech is a mech. Make sure you understand what your little 18350s can handle.

 

[shaunnadan]

i have a similar mech mod, the smok fury s

its pretty much useless in my eyes. lol

at 10A you cant really build anything lower 0.66ohms (that is with only 1% headroom on the battery amp limit) and with only 800mah you can get 9min worth of vape time.

 

[WARMACHINE]

LOL...ok that idea is scrapped. Have to look at the cricket again, just not sure about blowing off hands

 

[shaunnadan]

LOL...ok that idea is scrapped. Have to look at the cricket again, just not sure about blowing off hands

my advise to anyone interested in a mech (Reo, parallel, series) is to please invest in an ohm meter

 

[WARMACHINE]

I have all the electrical kit, but seems like loads of these mods have failures with short-firing on the box even when the button is locked. Also heard of devices exploding, but this could be user error more than the actual device.

 

[shaunnadan]

I have all the electrical kit, but seems like loads of these mods have failures with short-firing on the box even when the button is locked. Also heard of devices exploding, but this could be user error more than the actual device.

older single 18650 mech mods, especially clones had firing buttons that could loosen from the threads. you could have it all locked up and after some time where you were only adjusting the top section (atty and batteries) the locking ring would loosen also. most people wouldn't check all the threads since they didn't touch that section and that cause alot of misfires. the best test for the single 18650 mech mods was to place it on the desk and see if it auto fires.

the parallel 18650 mech mods needed bright NEON FLASHING lights to indicate battery orientation otherwise BOOM !

the series mech mods are a bit safer in terms of battery orientation but they come with a bigger risk in that your playing with a much higher voltage.

then there was mechs that were just poorly designed, like the original cherrybomber that shorted if you just looked at it squint (and touched it with your car keys)

 

[WARMACHINE]

Shaun, would you say the Noisy Cricket is built correctly ? And is it any good ?

 

[shaunnadan]

Shaun, would you say the Noisy Cricket is built correctly ? And is it any good ?

its awesome ! its a quality product, that's built beautifully.

personally i still prefer regulated power and my rolo can push out a bigger punch but that is highly debatable (possibilities of more than 35A batteries being released in the future *mooch rated the tesi at 35A and not a true 40W battery, the drain on the circuity of the mod, etc)

 

[Andre]

I have all the electrical kit, but seems like loads of these mods have failures with short-firing on the box even when the button is locked. Also heard of devices exploding, but this could be user error more than the actual device.

There have been many more failures on regulated devices than mechanical mods, even before regulated mods became far more popular and numerous than mechs. That stands to reason as a regulated mods just have so many more potential points of failure. However, the potential consequences of a failure on a mech is probably much more severe than on a regulated device. Especially if you have more than one battery.

Thus if you want to reap the benefits of a mechanical mod (less bulky, will last forever, etc) imho you have to;

1. Make sure you get the very best quality mech out there. Remember it will last forever if of good quality.
2. Know exactly how it works and is put together. You will be able to fix it if something breaks - it is so simple. If it is not your thing to repair stuff, buy one that you know can be fixed by the maker or other knowledgeable person. It is good to know that the wear and tear parts are available.
3. Know everything there is to know about battery safety and Ohm's Law.
4. Make sure that the batteries you use are not only safe but are always in a good condition.
5. As @shaunnadan said, a good and accurate Ohm meter is a must. Test your coils with atomizer cap on as well.
6. A doohickey to test your batteries is also a good investment.
7. Always leave a good margin of safety for your batteries when you build.
8. A quality lockable firing button is non-negotiable. Even more important is to use it.
9. A hot (collapsible) spring, which will disconnect your battery if it becomes too hot, is a good fail-safe.
10. Proper venting on a mech is important.

 

[Andre]

its awesome ! its a quality product, that's built beautifully.

personally i still prefer regulated power and my rolo can push out a bigger punch but that is highly debatable (possibilities of more than 35A batteries being released in the future *mooch rated the tesi at 35A and not a true 40W battery, the drain on the circuity of the mod, etc)

Did he not rate (CDR) the Tesiyi at 25A?

 

[shaunnadan]

Did he not rate (CDR) the Tesiyi at 25A?

correct! at 35A is where there was a sudden voltage drop, if i remember

 

[shaunnadan]

There have been many more failures on regulated devices than mechanical mods, even before regulated mods became far more popular and numerous than mechs. That stands to reason as a regulated mods just have so many more potential points of failure. However, the potential consequences of a failure on a mech is probably much more severe than on a regulated device. Especially if you have more than one battery.

Thus if you want to reap the benefits of a mechanical mod (less bulky, will last forever, etc) imho you have to;

1. Make sure you get the very best quality mech out there. Remember it will last forever if of good quality.
2. Know exactly how it works and is put together. You will be able to fix it if something breaks - it is so simple. If it is not your thing to repair stuff, buy one that you know can be fixed by the maker or other knowledgeable person. It is good to know that the wear and tear parts are available.
3. Know everything there is to know about battery safety and Ohm's Law.
4. Make sure that the batteries you use are not only safe but are always in a good condition.
5. As @shaunnadan said, a good and accurate Ohm meter is a must. Test your coils with atomizer cap on as well.
6. A doohickey to test your batteries is also a good investment.
7. Always leave a good margin of safety for your batteries when you build.
8. A quality lockable firing button is non-negotiable. Even more important is to use it.
9. A hot (collapsible) spring, which will disconnect your battery if it becomes too hot, is a good fail-safe.
10. Proper venting on a mech is important.

WORDS OF WISDOM!

 

[WARMACHINE]

There have been many more failures on regulated devices than mechanical mods, even before regulated mods became far more popular and numerous than mechs. That stands to reason as a regulated mods just have so many more potential points of failure. However, the potential consequences of a failure on a mech is probably much more severe than on a regulated device. Especially if you have more than one battery.

Thus if you want to reap the benefits of a mechanical mod (less bulky, will last forever, etc) imho you have to;

1. Make sure you get the very best quality mech out there. Remember it will last forever if of good quality.
2. Know exactly how it works and is put together. You will be able to fix it if something breaks - it is so simple. If it is not your thing to repair stuff, buy one that you know can be fixed by the maker or other knowledgeable person. It is good to know that the wear and tear parts are available.
3. Know everything there is to know about battery safety and Ohm's Law.
4. Make sure that the batteries you use are not only safe but are always in a good condition.
5. As @shaunnadan said, a good and accurate Ohm meter is a must. Test your coils with atomizer cap on as well.
6. A doohickey to test your batteries is also a good investment.
7. Always leave a good margin of safety for your batteries when you build.
8. A quality lockable firing button is non-negotiable. Even more important is to use it.
9. A hot (collapsible) spring, which will disconnect your battery if it becomes too hot, is a good fail-safe.
10. Proper venting on a mech is important.

Thanks Andre. Other than the Reo, what mech mods do you say seem to tick all the boxes ?

 

[shaunnadan]

Thanks Andre. Other than the Reo, what mech mods do you say seem to tick all the boxes ?

the reo is the only one i know off with a hot spring.

 

[WARMACHINE]

the reo is the only one i know off with a hot spring.

Is that what makes it so expensive ?

 

[shaunnadan]

Is that what makes it so expensive ?

It's expensive because they are all handmade, and machined to perfection.

 

[WARMACHINE]

It's expensive because they are all handmade, and machined to perfection.

WOW, that must be quite a process

 

[zadiac]

IMO the best mech out there now for a dripper is the cricket. Although dangerous in the wrong hands (or shall I say the idiot's hands) it is an amazing mod and definitely on my list for future purchase

 

[Andre]

@WARMACHINE, I have only been using Reos as I like mine to be a squonker as well, but would trust @zadiac's recommendation. Another option is one custom made right here in South Africa by @Justin Pattrick - http://www.ecigssa.co.za/custom-made-proudly-sa-mod.t17390/

 

[WARMACHINE]

@Andre the local mod looks so great, but it is way too expensive. My purchases are normally compared to tech products I buy and use. For 4 or 5 grand, I could buy a decent (although small) LED TV. But thanks for the info

 

[zadiac]

@WARMACHINE, I have only been using Reos as I like mine to be a squonker as well, but would trust @zadiac's recommendation. Another option is one custom made right here in South Africa by @Justin Pattrick - http://www.ecigssa.co.za/custom-made-proudly-sa-mod.t17390/

Yes, you are right @Andre , the Reo is one of the best mechs out there and if @WARMACHINE is into single battery devices, then I'd rather recommend a Reo than the cricket. I loved my Reos and still have my woodvil, even though I don't use it anymore.

 

[rogue zombie]

I personally will not buy a Mech without a hotspring. Mechs (Reo) still my favourite. But no hotspring, no go.

I build well. I know this. My build was perfect and I tested it straight after on a regulated mod and it worked. It was the end-of-life battery that went bonkers in my Reo, that caused a major collapse. My button even got stuck on the fire plate thing because of the extremeness of it all.

I don't trust batteries enough, and have learned now that your coil build is not the only factor.

In truth, I know I abused the batteries. I used them past the 3.7v mark, because with my gentle builds, its difficult to tell when the battery is running dry. But still, I know I could easily have had exploding battery without the collapsing spring.

 

[WARMACHINE]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I have decided against a mech mod. Maybe one day I will get a REO

 

[johan]

@WARMACHINE get a REO now and you will never look back - got mine March 2014 and still use it daily, no fuzz it just keep on vaping.