Voltage comparison between mods

[DougP]

Need the experts advice.
How would one measure the voltage output of 2 mods for comparison.

Here's my dilema...

I have 2 different manufactorers regulated mods. I set both to 40 watts.

When I connect my 0.2. Ohm atty (and same batteries) to each mod in turn I find that mod B always gives me a hotter vape than mod A. Its almost like mod B fires at about 8 watts more.

According to ohms law, 40 watts at 0.2ohm should give a voltage of 2.82.

Both mods have standard wattage settings. So no preheat, hard mode or anything like that set.

I can only assume there must be a voltage output difference between the 2 mods.

My thinking is that if I can get the voltage output of mod A I can then set the same voltage output on mod B by playing with the wattage settings to achieve the same vape or is it more complex than that.

 

[Silver]

Interesting @Blends Of Distinction
I think the mods regulator circuits are just different and they are outputting differently.
Maybe one mod is giving you a true 40W but the other is actually lower
or
The one mod is giving you 40W and the other one is actually higher

I know with my iStick 20 - it actually gives a higher true wattage than what is displayed on the mod. For example, say I normally vape my Evod at 7 Watts. Then when I use the istick20, if I put it on 7 Watts it feels too much - so i adjust down to like 5.5 Watts.

PBusardo did a video on this back in the day. Apparently the wattage shown on the iStick20 is not the same reading as on other mods. One is mean and one is RMS - cant remember whats what - but the one is higher - its the way you calculate wattage when its pulsing that differs. The one calc is equivalent to the DC wattage (the correct one) - but the other is not the same. Can't remember exactly but that's the jist of it.

Bottom line is that it doesnt matter - you just adjust till you get the vape to how you like it.

Remember, these mods cost a few hundred bucks - and probably much less to make - so they are not precision instruments. There will also be inaccuracies imo.

I also notice the same on some of my mods. Some feel more powerful than others at the same wattage setting. When the guys do their reviews and plug the mod in to their oscilloscopes they show if it overfires or underfires. I.e. what the true voltage or power is versus what you've dialled in. I have seen a few of these videos before - and each mod is a bit different

 

[DougP]

Interesting @Blends Of Distinction
I think the mods regulator circuits are just different and they are outputting differently.
Maybe one mod is giving you a true 40W but the other is actually lower
or
The one mod is giving you 40W and the other one is actually higher

I know with my iStick 20 - it actually gives a higher true wattage than what is displayed on the mod. For example, say I normally vape my Evod at 7 Watts. Then when I use the istick20, if I put it on 7 Watts it feels too much - so i adjust down to like 5.5 Watts.

PBusardo did a video on this back in the day. Apparently the wattage shown on the iStick20 is not the same reading as on other mods. One is mean and one is RMS - cant remember whats what - but the one is higher - its the way you calculate wattage when its pulsing that differs. The one calc is equivalent to the DC wattage (the correct one) - but the other is not the same. Can't remember exactly but that's the jist of it.

Bottom line is that it doesnt matter - you just adjust till you get the vape to how you like it.

Remember, these mods cost a few hundred bucks - and probably much less to make - so they are not precision instruments. There will also be inaccuracies imo.

I also notice the same on some of my mods. Some feel more powerful than others at the same wattage setting. When the guys do their reviews and plug the mod in to their oscilloscopes they show if it overfires or underfires. I.e. what the true voltage or power is versus what you've dialled in. I have seen a few of these videos before - and each mod is a bit different

100 %
I think right now the curiosity bug has also bitten me. I would like to know the exact voltage of each so I can see what the difference is.

Can one merely take a fluke meter and measure across the positive and negetive post of the atty while firing the mod to get a voltage reading or is it more complex than that

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[Timwis]

Even if everything is accurate on both devices so both give 40W that wattage setting is what the device aims to give when firing but a device with slower ramp up takes longer to get to the set wattage and would give the impression it is underpowered, same solution as already mentioned just up the wattage on that device or if it has a curves feature give it an initial boost!

 

[blujeenz]

100 %
I think right now the curiosity bug has also bitten me. I would like to know the exact voltage of each so I can see what the difference is.

Can one merely take a fluke meter and measure across the positive and negetive post of the atty while firing the mod to get a voltage reading or is it more complex than that

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

If you have the expensive ones that can read a PWM waveform then you should be good to compare outputs.

 

[DougP]

If you have the expensive ones that can read a PWM waveform then you should be good to compare outputs.

Okay so you need a Greek one then. Cause right now that sounds like greek to me..
Maybe I will just stick to playing with changing the wattage and focus more on making chips in my air fryer

Talking about air fryers...
Naaa never mind

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[StompieZA]

Yeah different mods, different chipsets make a big difference. I can use one tank and test it on my Drag 2, GEN ect and the DRAG i found always hits like a 10 pound hammer. The GEN hits similar just due to the Pulse mode.

 

[Dela Rey Steyn]

Okay so you need a Greek one then. Cause right now that sounds like greek to me..
Maybe I will just stick to playing with changing the wattage and focus more on making chips in my air fryer

Talking about air fryers...
Naaa never mind

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

Most Multi-Meters are less complicated than air fryers!

 

[Stranger]

So many variables to take into consideration, power transfer, resistance, voltage loss. if you look at a a mech that takes your 510 connector on the tank straight to the head of your battery, then there will be very little voltage loss. If you put something in between, like a silver or gold plated connector, then that material will loose some volts as the power passes through it.

On a regulated mod, the same is going to happen in differing degrees from one device to the other.

Puma 200w has an initial boost circuit that sends a small pulse higher than what you have set your device to, quickly get the coil to temp

The Rincoe Manto pro does not do this

Same tank, I need to set the Manto at 20w, I get the same result with 18w on the Puma.

or
I can set the Manto at 18w and fire it for 1/2 a second and let go before firing again and taking a pull

 

[THE REAPER]

Okay so you need a Greek one then. Cause right now that sounds like greek to me..
Maybe I will just stick to playing with changing the wattage and focus more on making chips in my air fryer

Talking about air fryers...
Naaa never mind

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

See what you did there started with the you know what lol. Never mind now everyone is gonna fill in the blank hahahaha.

 

[DougP]

See what you did there started with the you know what lol. Never mind now everyone is gonna fill in the blank hahahaha.

I just had to spruce up this thread...

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