510 squonk connector leaking
- Thread starter Faiyaz Cheulkar
- Start date
@Resistance @Puff the Magic Dragon
When I googled thread locker it said the working temperature is upto 150 degree Celsius, so kind of in doubt there.
I wanted to try dental floss or some teflon tape but don't know how to seperase the components without damage.
Or should I just wrap the dental floss around ?
When I googled thread locker it said the working temperature is upto 150 degree Celsius, so kind of in doubt there.
I wanted to try dental floss or some teflon tape but don't know how to seperase the components without damage.
Or should I just wrap the dental floss around ?
Just a guess but maybe removing the small black O ring (centre pic) will allow the center pin to slide out the top.
Regards
So removed that red washer and this is what I found, once the atty is connected the positive pin in the 510 connector is pushed down (no spring the silicone ring works like a spring). This is creating a gap and when I squonk the juice comes out.
Not sure if the juice is coming out of the joint that connects the squonk feeder pipe to the gold plated positive pin or the juice goes in the 510 and then whatever doesn't go up the atty crawls back down from the sides of the silicone ring
Not sure if the juice is coming out of the joint that connects the squonk feeder pipe to the gold plated positive pin or the juice goes in the 510 and then whatever doesn't go up the atty crawls back down from the sides of the silicone ring
Nope. Wondering what that oring is doing there
Now it looks as if the positive pin screws into the thicker metal part the small o ring came off.
Regards
It seems like press fitted into each other.
That would pose a problem getting them apart. Maybe best seek a solution that does not need you to. Thread/teflon tape would be my next step.
Regards
i thought so to at first but what i see is when the atty is connected the positive PIN is pushed down. Considering I have not isolated the fault to the silicone ring yet, I will give it a try. So the teflon tape goes between the bottom feeder pipe and the positive Pin? where they meet ?
I have only used teflon tapes on pipe threads till now so dont know.
My first idea was to put metal putty and seal that entire thing.
The metal putty idea will make your 510 a non adjustable one. With the tape try filling up the gap between the transparentish washer and the thicker part where the red washer was. Do so with an atty connected so it is extended when you do. Who knows, this may just work.
Regards
That pic still looks a bot unclear to me bit form what you are explaining i gather that it leaks from the silicone insert.
Firstly try to get the positive off then...if you ha e a tap washer available insert and cut to size under/at the bottom of the silicone.it should put a bit more pressure on it and expand it when the atty screws/pushes it down.
@Faiyaz Cheulkar
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Firstly try to get the positive off then...if you ha e a tap washer available insert and cut to size under/at the bottom of the silicone.it should put a bit more pressure on it and expand it when the atty screws/pushes it down.
@Faiyaz Cheulkar
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I only saw now that you said it might be pressed in.try to get the teflon tape in there where I put the arrow to push the silicone seal back up into the 510.that means you going to have to pack quite a bit in there
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That thing might unscrew.the positive pin that is.check if the positive has a flat screwslot.
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no it doesn't, when i try to unscrew the positive Pin keeps spinning.
Then the only other thing I can think of would be an O-ring.it should be able to stretch over the positive assembly and come back to set diameter.
You just need to find one with the right diameter to push the silicone back up into the 510 sleeve
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You just need to find one with the right diameter to push the silicone back up into the 510 sleeve
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And theres no circlip anywhere?
And the o-ring didn't perhaps act as a retainer.
Pull it and see
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And the o-ring didn't perhaps act as a retainer.
Pull it and see
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Thinking of doing a soap water test
you were right the 510 connector and feeder pipe seal joint is leaking. I put dental floss in the joint and now when I press the squonk bottle it doesnt loose pressure at all. But I am sure after a few days or weeks of use the dental floss might come off, infact even now when I pressed too hard I can see some liquid coming out. its also leaking from the plate thats connecting the positive wire.I only saw now that you said it might be pressed in.try to get the teflon tape in there where I put the arrow to push the silicone seal back up into the 510.that means you going to have to pack quite a bit in there
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Removed the oring, there is just a groove for the ring to sit.
Hcigar aurora.
Found this on fasttech
https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10048575/9630539-clrane-replacement-510-connector-w-solder-ring
Lets see if anyone has this locally. Always good of to have a backup plan.
https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10048575/9630539-clrane-replacement-510-connector-w-solder-ring
Lets see if anyone has this locally. Always good of to have a backup plan.
Put everything back, the most difficult part was to solder the leads back to the board. My 25w soldering iron dint have enough juice to heat that big copper connection, or they have used the solder that is used for copper pipes.
Anyway was able to solder it back.
The dental floss is not a permanent fix but it should hold for sometime.
A bigger concern is that they have used grub screws to put the mod together and I might have damaged the head.
If I open it next time I will need new screws either flat heads or Philip head.
Anyway was able to solder it back.
The dental floss is not a permanent fix but it should hold for sometime.
A bigger concern is that they have used grub screws to put the mod together and I might have damaged the head.
If I open it next time I will need new screws either flat heads or Philip head.
I need to find a big pack of different screws.
At least you sorted for now but you should go find an O-ring that you can slip on there till you get a new 510
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