Yup. Here we go
And a recommended wattage of 30-70w. Looks like this'll be the next big thing
Cubis
- Thread starter Andre
- Start date
And a recommended wattage of 30-70w. Looks like this'll be the next big thing
Firstly my apologies for not updating as promised. I did the modification and took the pics but forgot to update this thread. I've been solely using the Haze dripper tank lately and had forgotten about my Cubis till this morning.
I don't know if anyone else has fried their Cubis coil due to taking long extended lung hits, but I certainly have. 3-5 second hits are fine but long 6-10 seconds hits end off with a mouthful of burnt cotton. I tend to run the Cubis .5 SS at 25-27W so still within the range of the coil.
I figured the dry hits had to be because the wick holes at the bottom are not sufficient to supply the cotton with juice fast enough. So I took a small snips and hacked away at the wick holes.
The end result was not pretty but it worked like a charm. Now the only thing stopping me is the 10 second limit on the mod
DISCLAIMER: I will not be liable for damages to you mod, tank, 510 connection, dog, cat, house or any others liabilities that may result from trying to mimic what I have done in this thread.
For the sake of eCiggsa users the world over I sacrificed this brand new coil for the greater good. Ohhhhh shiney
Flip the coil so that the mesh is facing down.
Then using a small flat screwdriver remove the silver plug to expose the coil legs.
Now remove the white insulator and flip it over. Remove the mesh and carefully remove the coil. Take care not to damage the leads! Also try to be careful with the mesh. I messed mine up and it woudn't go back
Turn it back over so you can see the wicking holes. Next up take a precision screwdriver and slowly widen the hole by inserting the screwdriver into the wicking hole and softly tapping. Start with a small precision and work your way you to the 2 - 2.5mm. Sorry I don't have a pic of me doing this but you should get the idea.
Once happy with the size of your wicking holes you can install everything back in reverse order. Just try be gentle when widening the holes, as you can see from the pic above I got hasty and it's not very neat. My 1st attempt was way worse!
End result is good!!!
This method has fixed the dry hits when doing long D2L hits but I created a small issue in doing do. When I have left the tank sitting with juice in it for a long while I end up with a little spit back on the initial few vapes. The first coil doesn't spit back but this one does. It's probably because I left the mesh off the second time but it could also be that I'm now flooding the coil.
The fix is easy, all I do is drag softly on the first 3 or 4 drags and that clears it up for me.
I'm expecting a 5 pack from eFun.top in the next few weeks - I will be dedicating the entire 5 pack to perfecting the juice holes
I don't know if anyone else has fried their Cubis coil due to taking long extended lung hits, but I certainly have. 3-5 second hits are fine but long 6-10 seconds hits end off with a mouthful of burnt cotton. I tend to run the Cubis .5 SS at 25-27W so still within the range of the coil.
I figured the dry hits had to be because the wick holes at the bottom are not sufficient to supply the cotton with juice fast enough. So I took a small snips and hacked away at the wick holes.
The end result was not pretty but it worked like a charm. Now the only thing stopping me is the 10 second limit on the mod
DISCLAIMER: I will not be liable for damages to you mod, tank, 510 connection, dog, cat, house or any others liabilities that may result from trying to mimic what I have done in this thread.
For the sake of eCiggsa users the world over I sacrificed this brand new coil for the greater good. Ohhhhh shiney
Flip the coil so that the mesh is facing down.
Then using a small flat screwdriver remove the silver plug to expose the coil legs.
Now remove the white insulator and flip it over. Remove the mesh and carefully remove the coil. Take care not to damage the leads! Also try to be careful with the mesh. I messed mine up and it woudn't go back
Turn it back over so you can see the wicking holes. Next up take a precision screwdriver and slowly widen the hole by inserting the screwdriver into the wicking hole and softly tapping. Start with a small precision and work your way you to the 2 - 2.5mm. Sorry I don't have a pic of me doing this but you should get the idea.
Once happy with the size of your wicking holes you can install everything back in reverse order. Just try be gentle when widening the holes, as you can see from the pic above I got hasty and it's not very neat. My 1st attempt was way worse!
End result is good!!!
This method has fixed the dry hits when doing long D2L hits but I created a small issue in doing do. When I have left the tank sitting with juice in it for a long while I end up with a little spit back on the initial few vapes. The first coil doesn't spit back but this one does. It's probably because I left the mesh off the second time but it could also be that I'm now flooding the coil.
The fix is easy, all I do is drag softly on the first 3 or 4 drags and that clears it up for me.
I'm expecting a 5 pack from eFun.top in the next few weeks - I will be dedicating the entire 5 pack to perfecting the juice holes
Attachments
Gee whiz that seems a lot of trouble.
Here's an easier way without taking it all to bits - use a centre punch and a 10lb hammer. I'm kidding about the 10lb hammer - just a small hammer and tap carefully.
The other thing I have noticed the centre pin (connection) is sometimes further into the body of the coil head cylinder.
Like so.
The point at the bottom is the centre punch it was to stop the coil heads from rolling.
Dave
Here's an easier way without taking it all to bits - use a centre punch and a 10lb hammer. I'm kidding about the 10lb hammer - just a small hammer and tap carefully.
The other thing I have noticed the centre pin (connection) is sometimes further into the body of the coil head cylinder.
Like so.
The point at the bottom is the centre punch it was to stop the coil heads from rolling.
Dave
Maybe I should elaborate a little on the protruding centre pin. Out of the box the protruding centre pin all look the same. The problem arises when it is screwed down to make the electrical connection the centre pin on some moves in slightly (some more than others). This may have the effect of reducing the juice flow through the holes (slots) by reducing the gap between the slots and the tank bottom. However this is just a guess.
Dave
Dave
That's a similar result to how I did the first "modification" (mine wasn't as neat tho) but I was worried that the bottom of the coil will not make good contact with the bottom of the tank. Because like you saw the bottom pin pushes inward a mm or so. That's why I tried a new method keeping the bottom gap as new.Gee whiz that seems a lot of trouble.
Here's an easier way without taking it all to bits - use a centre punch and a 10lb hammer. I'm kidding about the 10lb hammer - just a small hammer and tap carefully.
View attachment 51925
The other thing I have noticed the centre pin (connection) is sometimes further into the body of the coil head cylinder.
Like so.
View attachment 51926
The point at the bottom is the centre punch it was to stop the coil heads from rolling.
Dave
This first method gave me no spit back but this coil still has the mesh. So I'm going to play around a bit with the 5 pack and find the optimum way.
I'm sure you will agree the flow is a lot better this way.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Absolutely - one of mine kept on going to give a slight dry hit taste, I was forever unscrewing it in an attempt to get the juice to the coil. After I opened up the holes it was fine.
Dave
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I have had 2 coils that only wicked when they were installed. Seems that there are some coils that have excessive movement on the centre pin which blocks the juice flow completely, or the seal expands too much. Will do the mod on all new ones - might try to Dremel a gap on the side of the juice hole.
If you can please post pics of the end result, I'm planning on trying as many diiferent methods I can when I receive my 5 pack.
I will have a go over the weekend. Hope my hands are steady enough!
'
Sent from my SM-J500F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-J500F using Tapatalk
Has anyone used the rba yet? I'm struggling to get the right amount of wick needed? Got it right last night but seemed abit muted
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
I made a vertical coil. Haven't done horizontal yet
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
I took one of my "dud" coils and carefully applied a small Dremel rotary burr to it. Put it in the Cubis and - Perfect. this was a coil that would only juice up on installation and within about 4 to 5 hits started going dry. Gave it a a good working out last night - long lung hits and no hint of a dry hit.
I have one a dremel kit at home and I'm going to give this method a whirl. Looks nice and neat bud.
Did you remove the wick and coil before using the dremel? I'm guessing you did to avoid metal filings in the cotton.
Actually no. I took a chance and just blew out the very small amount of filings that went in. 99% of the filings go up anyway.
Can someone try this with the rba and let us know the results?
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
I saw the new RBA for the rectanglular Cubis tank that comes with the Cuboid mini has slots on the side to aid wicking. BEst part is that RBA fits the normal Cubis too. I need to try source one, preferably local. I'm getting sick and tired of these long waits waiting for Fasttech.
Now that is good news! I hope we can get those ones cause even though the rba is workable, I can't get the thing to wick fast enough.
Why not try opening up the juice holes on the current RBA you have? They only R140 so if you stuff it up it's no the end of the world.
Although in the same breathe I must tell you that my modified .5 SS coil wicks better than my friends RBA. He's now ditched his RBA in favour of a modded .5 coil.
I placed an order for a 5 pack of the Notch coils from https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10013375/4598700-authentic-joyetech-cuboid-mini-cubis-tank - still no RBA available anywhere, and I looked everywhere but it will be available soon.
I actually wanna try the notch coils and yeah..i think i will open up the holes. My rba screw is rusting as well so i guess that needs to be changed as well..
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Update: the rba of mine is in the bin..dunno if it was the rust from the screw but I will await the notch and the new rba!
What's different with the new rba?
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
I'm using the cubis on my VTC mini at 25W. So far I've put about 45ml of juice through the 0.5 ohm coil and it's still going strong. I'm loving the tank so far. No leaking, easy to refill and clean, good airflow, the coils seem to last very long and it doesn't use a lot of juice. The only problem I've had is a bit of spitting after a refill but I've seen in this thread how to fix it. I'm going to look at getting the RBA once this coil is done. I'm still a beginner so I'll probably buy pre built coils and just wick them myself
That's good to hear. I'm a bit disappointed with the latest batch of 1.5 ohm coils I bought. They barely lasted a couple of tanks before I was getting a burnt taste. Same juice in my trusty Ego One has lasts far longer.
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