normally i would advise to not using a tank at all on a mech.
but becoz this has a 510 connector then should be good to use
but becoz this has a 510 connector then should be good to use
Please share the knowledge with regards to ohms...
- Thread starter KingSize
- Start date
Cool thanks for the help bro
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@KingSize and @Mark121m , the LG HG2 is a 20 amp battery.
This is directly from mooch's battery table
With a dual coil of 0.35 ohm you are very safe with those batteries. Just make sure that they are authentic and not fake.
Check here to see how http://www.ecigssa.co.za/bad-news-on-lg-hg2s.t22653/page-2#post-372788
This is directly from mooch's battery table
With a dual coil of 0.35 ohm you are very safe with those batteries. Just make sure that they are authentic and not fake.
Check here to see how http://www.ecigssa.co.za/bad-news-on-lg-hg2s.t22653/page-2#post-372788
I'd not recommend the lgs, I'd rather opt in for Samsung 25rs, even tho they both do 20 amps, the samsung can handle higher amps better for long periods of time, you also have to make sure the 0.35 coil you going to build will fire up at 44 watts.
Thanks guys this is the kind of info I want 
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Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Hi @KingSize - i agree with what @zadiac says
You should be safe with a 20A continuous battery at 0.33 ohms
The current draw at that ohmage on a fully charged battery ignoring volt drop is 12.7 amps
I=V/R
That gives you enough safety margin in case your ohm reader is slightly out or in case the battery has a slightly lower max continuous amp rating. One needs to build in these safety margins to account for these things.
The problem is that if you accidentally build incorrectly and say you land up at 0.2 ohms (which can happen eg if you are not concentrating or just make a mistake with the wraps or diameter etc). At 0.2 ohms, the current draw is 21 amps on a fresh 4.2V batt. That may start to introduce problems. Especially also if the battery is say a bit lower than a rated 20 amps. The point here is that even a smallish decline in ohms can increase the current draw quite dramatically.
I have found that on single 18650 mech mods (my Reos) i am happiest at about the 0.45 to 0.6 ohm range. Not a super powerful vape but the battery tends to last much longer.
You should be safe with a 20A continuous battery at 0.33 ohms
The current draw at that ohmage on a fully charged battery ignoring volt drop is 12.7 amps
I=V/R
That gives you enough safety margin in case your ohm reader is slightly out or in case the battery has a slightly lower max continuous amp rating. One needs to build in these safety margins to account for these things.
The problem is that if you accidentally build incorrectly and say you land up at 0.2 ohms (which can happen eg if you are not concentrating or just make a mistake with the wraps or diameter etc). At 0.2 ohms, the current draw is 21 amps on a fresh 4.2V batt. That may start to introduce problems. Especially also if the battery is say a bit lower than a rated 20 amps. The point here is that even a smallish decline in ohms can increase the current draw quite dramatically.
I have found that on single 18650 mech mods (my Reos) i am happiest at about the 0.45 to 0.6 ohm range. Not a super powerful vape but the battery tends to last much longer.
PS - @KingSize
I forgot to mention
You MUST check the fully assembled coil with the dripper cap on - when you check the ohms on the ohm reader of your regulated device.
Just to make sure the wires are not touching where they arent supposed to touch.
The regulated mod will probably read no resistance or say "short" or something like that if there is a problem.
Its very tempting to just vape straight away on the mech, but this extra step is quite important in my opinion.
Has saved me once or twice from a potential mishap.
Another thing, the resistance can and often does change slightly when you pulse, wick and lube up the coil and wick setup. So its worth checking it once you are ready to vape with the wick installed and juiced up. If you are at 0.33 ohms you may find it goes a bit lower after all of this.
I forgot to mention
You MUST check the fully assembled coil with the dripper cap on - when you check the ohms on the ohm reader of your regulated device.
Just to make sure the wires are not touching where they arent supposed to touch.
The regulated mod will probably read no resistance or say "short" or something like that if there is a problem.
Its very tempting to just vape straight away on the mech, but this extra step is quite important in my opinion.
Has saved me once or twice from a potential mishap.
Another thing, the resistance can and often does change slightly when you pulse, wick and lube up the coil and wick setup. So its worth checking it once you are ready to vape with the wick installed and juiced up. If you are at 0.33 ohms you may find it goes a bit lower after all of this.
Right.
I've been in talks with a well known mech vaper here in sa.
There is so much more to think about when building coils that are to thick or to thin.
Which glow fast 1sec compared 4sec.
My builds have been quiet think lately and take awhile to glow.
Single strand parralel builds are the way to go.
More testing required
I've been in talks with a well known mech vaper here in sa.
There is so much more to think about when building coils that are to thick or to thin.
Which glow fast 1sec compared 4sec.
My builds have been quiet think lately and take awhile to glow.
Single strand parralel builds are the way to go.
More testing required
Thanks Silver and Mark!!
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Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I like long and cool hits so I suppose 0.35ohms will be good AND SAFE for me
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If you like long and cool hits @ .35 better get yourself another atty as you will surely set your mouth on fire with the standard KUI atty using it like that
Source: Had one ...
Yes this atty is tiny... seems like it's more for MTL hits I have given up on it as the little conductor plate that sits between the button and the battery doesn't stay in place. So either it doesn't make any contact or it keeps contact without being pressed.... dodge!!
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I have given up on it as the little conductor plate that sits between the button and the battery doesn't stay in place. So either it doesn't make any contact or it keeps contact without being pressed.... dodge!!Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
With a 0.35ohm build
It's going to take very long for the Coil to glow.
You may put strain on the battery beca use you'll be pressing and pressing and won't be getting anything.
Just watch the battery + terminal.
Youll probably take 5 sec for the Coil to heat up.
That will be insanely long time.
It's going to take very long for the Coil to glow.
You may put strain on the battery beca use you'll be pressing and pressing and won't be getting anything.
Just watch the battery + terminal.
Youll probably take 5 sec for the Coil to heat up.
That will be insanely long time.
@Mark121m, I find it very difficult to follow the logic of your posts, both in this thread and in other threads.
For example, in your response above, you aver that at 0.35 ohm coil will take very long to heat up. Under normal circumstances that is patently untrue.
So, we need some context. Maybe use the reply or quote button so that we can see what post(s) you are responding to, which might supply the context and circumstances to make sense of your reply.
Also maybe try to be less concise.
Not to hurt, but to try and help.
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