Quick question thread

Thanx @Silver, will try that another noob question? how did you calculate that?

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Hi @Spongebob
Its just a basic formula
In 10ml of juice you had 8ml of 18mg and 2ml of 36mg
So 80% is 18mg and 20% of it is 36mg
Final mg is 0.8x18 + 0.2x36 = 21.6
 
I have a quick question for DIYers: do you measure out your VG by exact weight when adding it or are you an "I just fill the bottle" type? I think both are fine but I'm a measurer. I dunno, it just feels wrong to measure out every other ingredient precisely and then dump an indeterminate "well, it's sorta near the top of the bottle so it's fine" amount of VG in to finish it off.
Mix straight into the juice bottle, thats why I am not interested in a magnetic stirrer. Nic first incase you stuff up the most expensive and harshest ingredient, concentrates, PG then VG last. The benefit of VG last is that you can keep going until near the top of the bottle then only start looking at the scale.
All finished bottles go onto a rotisserie that I made from a braai grid and wiper motor for about 30min or so while I clean up, pack away and click all the "make recipe" in the calculator.
I used to leave them on the rotisserie for the steep period, with a timer, and spin every day for a bit. I gave up on that.
 
My recipe calculator is set up for the following grams/ml:
PG: 1.038 (and concentrates as they are PG based)
VG: 1.26

Are these values correct?

They are but the overwhelming majority of recipe developers use 1ml = 1g for concentrates. It is scientifically wrong as very few concentrates have a specific gravity of 1.000. But that doesn't matter. My aim when mixing another person's recipe is not to be scientifically correct, it is to replicate the juice that they created. If we are both wrong, it is fine - as long as we are both wrong by the same amount.

Percentages are always verified by weight, not by volume. When Wayne adds 4% of a flavour to a recipe, he adds 4g in a 100ml mix, not 4ml to a 100ml mix. If the specific flavour has a specific gravity of 1.1 and I use the correct SG, it means I will add 4.4g to 100ml. It is now a (slightly) different recipe.
 
They are but the overwhelming majority of recipe developers use 1ml = 1g for concentrates. It is scientifically wrong as very few concentrates have a specific gravity of 1.000. But that doesn't matter. My aim when mixing another person's recipe is not to be scientifically correct, it is to replicate the juice that they created. If we are both wrong, it is fine - as long as we are both wrong by the same amount.

Percentages are always verified by weight, not by volume. When Wayne adds 4% of a flavour to a recipe, he adds 4g in a 100ml mix, not 4ml to a 100ml mix. If the specific flavour has a specific gravity of 1.1 and I use the correct SG, it means I will add 4.4g to 100ml. It is now a (slightly) different recipe.
Thanks Rich. So I'm more likely to get the recipe as it was meant to be using 1.0 for my concentrates. I shall make the adjustment :)
 
Indeed. What I don't know as yet, but will find out, is whether one also uses 1:1 or 1.26 as the weight of VG flavours like the RF range. That would make a big difference as 4% of the flavour by volume in a 100ml would equal 5.04g of the flavour by weight: 4x1.26 = 5.04. I don't have any VG-based flavours and don't intend getting any but it would still be good to know.

Edit: OK, shyndo (who has published recipes using RF VG flavours) confirmed to me that he does 1:1, and he reckons others do the same. This will partly explain the perception of RF VG flavours being so weak. If a recipe developer adds 10g to a 100ml mix, he will notate it as 10%. It is in actuality only around 8%. They are undoubtedly still weak flavours, just not as weak as the % indicate.
 
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I have a quick question for DIYers: do you measure out your VG by exact weight when adding it or are you an "I just fill the bottle" type? I think both are fine but I'm a measurer. I dunno, it just feels wrong to measure out every other ingredient precisely and then dump an indeterminate "well, it's sorta near the top of the bottle so it's fine" amount of VG in to finish it off.
Nic (PG) + Concentrate + PG
Shake like a crazy man
VG to almost the top
Shake like a crazy man
Steep.... like a very sane man
 
I go nic, PG, then concentrates in recipe order. Then I add the VG last, cap, label and give the whole thing a shake. I'm not sure why I do it this way, probably because that's how I saw Wayne doing it on Live Mixing. Although Wayne puts the concentrates in before the PG and also gives all the PG-based ingredients a swirl before adding the VG. I don't bother with the swirl, I figure I'm going to be shaking the whole lot anyway so no point in pre-mixing the PG ones. I dunno, it's just the way I do it, no real reason other than habit.

Snap! When mixing I also start with the Nic, then PG, then the concentrates and end off with the VG. Also started mixing this way after I started following Wayne.
There's no specific reason behind it other than, if it works for Wayne then it will work for me.
 
Heya all,
Question: What is that nasty taste...
Started getting a horrid taste from some new tanks today (after cleaning them first). I'm using different cotton, and also startes using N80 coils/wire for the first time. I get this nasty burnt tangy plastic taste. Almost like I'd imagine a burning condom would smell. Could this be kak cotton? Could it be that I overheated the Nichrome wire/coils?
Tanks Serpent SMM and CSMNT clone. Build NI80 diy round wire and stock coils from SMM. Instead of jap organic cotton I tried a bag of cotton I got at Vapecon.
Which is the most likely culprit?

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Heya all,
Question: What is that nasty taste...
Started getting a horrid taste from some new tanks today (after cleaning them first). I'm using different cotton, and also startes using N80 coils/wire for the first time. I get this nasty burnt tangy plastic taste. Almost like I'd imagine a burning condom would smell. Could this be kak cotton? Could it be that I overheated the Nichrome wire/coils?
Tanks Serpent SMM and CSMNT clone. Build NI80 diy round wire and stock coils from SMM. Instead of jap organic cotton I tried a bag of cotton I got at Vapecon.
Which is the most likely culprit?

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Many variables to choose from. Not knowing all the details I would take a guess that you might be running the wattage a bit high and therefore probably frying your cotton. Rewick and try a lower setting. Else it could be the cotton itself but that would be my second step in fault finding.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks @Raindance
Yup, too many variables to choose from, hence my plea for advice. It's not a burning cotton taste like a dry hit, it's a distinct pervasive chemical plastic/rubber taste. The tatse has lessened this morning on my SMM after going through a tank of juice, so I'm thinking it's probably the cotton needing to be broken in. Will re-try with my trusted cotton, if that's not it, then it must be the nichrome.

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Thanks @Raindance
Yup, too many variables to choose from, hence my plea for advice. It's not a burning cotton taste like a dry hit, it's a distinct pervasive chemical plastic/rubber taste. The tatse has lessened this morning on my SMM after going through a tank of juice, so I'm thinking it's probably the cotton needing to be broken in. Will re-try with my trusted cotton, if that's not it, then it must be the nichrome.

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If not the cotton, could be the insulator been submitted to too much heat? Check it maybe.
 
Thanks @Andre
Stupid question, how would I check the insulator (I'm assuming you mean the peak insulator on the Atty?)

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Thanks @Andre
Stupid question, how would I check the insulator (I'm assuming you mean the peak insulator on the Atty?)

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Yes, the peek insulator. Sometimes when the coil is close and at high heat it smolders a bit giving a horrible plastic taste. You should be able to see if the edges are just a tad deformed. You could take it out by unscrewing the 510 screw for better inspection.
 
Heya,
So, going to try my hand at a mech mod (Baal V4) I picked up at Vapecon and just want to check that I got my facts straight. Assumption being the mother of all f*ups and all that.

So, if I use a single LG HG2 rated at 20A (not an ideal mech battery but its all I got) , I should be ok down to 0.2 ohms according to calculators. However leaving a safety margin etc I should be aiming for around 0.4ohms preferably?

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Heya,
So, going to try my hand at a mech mod (Baal V4) I picked up at Vapecon and just want to check that I got my facts straight. Assumption being the mother of all f*ups and all that.

So, if I use a single LG HG2 rated at 20A (not an ideal mech battery but its all I got) , I should be ok down to 0.2 ohms according to calculators. However leaving a safety margin etc I should be aiming for around 0.4ohms preferably?

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Your ramp up on a dual coil setup will be terrible on a 0.4ohm build.
Familiarise yourself with ohms law (google search Ohms Law Calculator and you will find plenty at your disposal where you only need to provide 2 known variables [most of the time it will be Voltage and Resistance] - or use this formula: Current = Voltage / Resistance).
Technically on a full charge of your battery (4.2V) you can comfortably run a 0.25ohm build while pulling 17amps from your battery. Bump that up to 0.27ohm if you arent comfortable and you'll be pulling 15.5amps...

My mech builds (on a single tube) I generally keep at around 0.22 to 0.23ohm and I run Samsung 30Q's exclusively.
 
Thanks @Cespian
Yup, have done some research on Ohms law etc... Just wanted to double check before I assume "I know" and end up toothless.
Got some 30Qs too, but they are rated lower Amps? Anyhow, so 0.4 is a way too big safety margin then, will give somewhere around 0.3 ohms a try and see how it goes.

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Quick question... What are the variables to take into consideration to minimize the spit back of juice? (Eg. Wick, coil-wattage, heat, etc etc) and how can one lessen it... currently doing scottish roll wick with bacon V2. Has helped but not enough.
 
Hello lads and lasses,

Although I have been vaping for a number of years I have never gotten into TC. My son is however more adventurous than me and is starting to get into it. I realise this is a very noob question, but am I correct in thinking that Kanthal is not useable in TC? Any advice would be welcome, thanks guys.
 
Hello lads and lasses,

Although I have been vaping for a number of years I have never gotten into TC. My son is however more adventurous than me and is starting to get into it. I realise this is a very noob question, but am I correct in thinking that Kanthal is not useable in TC? Any advice would be welcome, thanks guys.
Quite correct, Kanthal does not work for TC.
 
Quick question... What are the variables to take into consideration to minimize the spit back of juice? (Eg. Wick, coil-wattage, heat, etc etc) and how can one lessen it... currently doing scottish roll wick with bacon V2. Has helped but not enough.
Hi @Tameem Jedaar I have found that if my wattage is to low I get spit back, what is your coils Ohm reading and at what wattage do you vape?

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Quick question... What are the variables to take into consideration to minimize the spit back of juice? (Eg. Wick, coil-wattage, heat, etc etc) and how can one lessen it... currently doing scottish roll wick with bacon V2. Has helped but not enough.
If you're using spaced coils that could also contribute to spit back.
 
If you're using spaced coils that could also contribute to spit back.
Nope, not spaced coils. 5 wrap fused claptons full nichrome. 2x26 +32g reading 0.16 ohms. I vape at 95w...

Once pulling a drag it's smooth. Just concerned of the spit back immediately after. Sometimes even into the eyes. And it's definitely not that I'm still pushing the firing button.
 
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