My wick keeps burning any advice
- Thread starter reijnier
- Start date
How thick is the wick in the coil, maybe use a bit less wick
As @kimbo said, you want to use a very small amount of wick and make sure that the juice channels are clearly visible when the chimney is screwed on - push the cotton against the sides (towards the coil) on both sides.
I have cut down on the cotton I use in there quite a bit, to the point where there is just enough to hang down and touch the deck (no bunching up at all).
Also, the SubTank RBA does not handle high VG juice at all well...you need to modify it for use with higher than 60VG juices (it really works best with 50/50 juice).
I have cut down on the cotton I use in there quite a bit, to the point where there is just enough to hang down and touch the deck (no bunching up at all).
Also, the SubTank RBA does not handle high VG juice at all well...you need to modify it for use with higher than 60VG juices (it really works best with 50/50 juice).
my channels are slightly modified
what id is your coil? if you have a very small id with very little wick you going to get dry hits while taking loooong hits. I have recommended this build and id to many and it works even with standard channels. i would take a file or knife and open the chanels slightly to make sure it wicks efficiently. it literally takes 5min and you good to go
what id is your coil? if you have a very small id with very little wick you going to get dry hits while taking loooong hits. I have recommended this build and id to many and it works even with standard channels. i would take a file or knife and open the chanels slightly to make sure it wicks efficiently. it literally takes 5min and you good to go
That looks perfect
If you still get dry hits, then there might be something in the juice channels...this happens sometimes. Take something small and scrape the channels to make sure there's nothing blocking the flow of juice
I have also found that spaced coils works much better in the subtank vs compressed coils
I
I would have to get a backup before doing something like that and sorry for asking what do mean by (id) noob questionmy channels are slightly modified
what id is your coil? if you have a very small id with very little wick you going to get dry hits while taking loooong hits. I have recommended this build and id to many and it works even with standard channels. i would take a file or knife and open the chanels slightly to make sure it wicks efficiently. it literally takes 5min and you good to go
I'm guessing you mean unscrewing the chimney from the base on the RBA. For this it is very simple...never over-tighten it...just tighten until it stops. When trying to get it off the best is to grab the chimney as low as you can mange - i.e. as close to the where the threading is - and turn very gently, the more pressure you apply the less likely you are to get it loose. Of course you should first clean it off with a cloth. Oh, and hold the base by the part the 510 screws into - when it is being very difficult I actually remove the pin first.
If you are using 50/50 juice there is no reason to mod the RBA - mine is still unmodified and runs flawlessly
ID is the inner dimension of the coil - i.e. the thickness of whatever you wrap around
ID = inner diameter of the coil......
O its two mil
O I use two mil and 50 50 like it that wayIf you are using 50/50 juice there is no reason to mod the RBA - mine is still unmodified and runs flawlessly
ID is the inner dimension of the coil - i.e. the thickness of whatever you wrap around
With that setup you should not be getting any dry hits...so it is most likely just due to the original wicking
Hopefully your new wicking solves the problem, and if not try using even less - or use a pancake wick
Silica? They don't really work very well in RTAs. I stick to Japanese cotton almost exclusively in my RTAs
But rayon works well too
The included pads are Japanese cotton, and it works really well
However, if you want to have perfect taste immediately I'd recommend Rayon...it's perfect from the first toot, but it doesn't last as long. It's a trade off, and I much prefer the short "settling period" of the Japanese cotton and then having it last a bit longer. But give Rayon a try, it's a great wicking material
The tank is awsome sorry for bothering again how long before you rebuild and rewick your tank I play on the safe side and do it every weak afraid of it dying on meYou are very welcome, glad to hear it's working well now - I really love this tank
The coil can go for much longer - I've run the same coil for more than a month...just dry burn it when wicking
As for wicking, I replace it about every one or two tanks...depending on flavour changes. Light juices can last much longer with wicks though
But you can very easily go a week on a wick 
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