The only problem is that you can discharge it lower if you keep using it
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Some say 2.5V, some say 2.7V is a safe cut off point. Whichever applies, I do not think you will be getting any proper vape below 3V. For me, below 3.3V it feels like sucking air - and at 0.8 ohms that is.
Agree with you @Andre
Even at 3.5V the vape feels way too light.
When i take out my batts on the Reo they were almost always at 3.5 to 3.7V
Not easy on my setups to get it anywhere close to 2.5V
Im same as you @Silver between 3.6v and 3.7v there is a massive diffrence compared to a fresh charged battery.
Lowest i think ive ever run a battery down on a mech is 3.5v
To reiterate what's been said, when your hit becomes unsatisfactory it's time to re up the cell.
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Forgive me for posting this here if it's not the correct thread. And again apologies for the stupid question but as this is my first mech I'd like to be totally sure before I do anything and someone did point out to ask stupid questions. Here goes...
I wanted to know everyone's thoughts on running the OBS engine nano on a mech. I've seen it done on vape reviews and Reddit posts about it being done. I personally see no issue with this. The 510 protrudes (Not running a hybrid anyway) the post-coil connections are solid as anything so no fear of slipping coils and shorting. I run very low wattage builds 25-40w on a .4-.5 So I'm not worried about melting the insulator and that shorting out either.
I know there are guys who say don't run RTAs on mechs. I see the reasoning if you're running subohm tanks as those factory coils can short easily. But I can't come up with a reason why the RTAs of today would ever be a problem with regular safety checks.
Just wanted to make sure I'm holding a vape and not a grenade.
Thanks to everyone. If this isn't an advanced vape question then someone please point it out and I'll move/delete it.
I wanted to know everyone's thoughts on running the OBS engine nano on a mech. I've seen it done on vape reviews and Reddit posts about it being done. I personally see no issue with this. The 510 protrudes (Not running a hybrid anyway) the post-coil connections are solid as anything so no fear of slipping coils and shorting. I run very low wattage builds 25-40w on a .4-.5 So I'm not worried about melting the insulator and that shorting out either.
I know there are guys who say don't run RTAs on mechs. I see the reasoning if you're running subohm tanks as those factory coils can short easily. But I can't come up with a reason why the RTAs of today would ever be a problem with regular safety checks.
Just wanted to make sure I'm holding a vape and not a grenade.
Thanks to everyone. If this isn't an advanced vape question then someone please point it out and I'll move/delete it.
Yo bud, all questions are good questions when it comes to mechs, sometimes stupid questions can have complicated answers
So here's my attempt to answer your question through my experience
Short answer : yes iv done it but not ideal
Long answer : I'm not familiar with your set up but if the atties 510 pin is solid , non hybrid preferably and you are confident nothing can distort it will work
Bare in mind your build and wick is key,generally RTAs are not as forgiving as RDAs (you can't saturate your wick manually or fine tune your power output nor keep it constant)
It might take a couple builds to get it perfect and even then expect poor battery life
As always be responsible and proceed with caution
Lastly I don't recommend RTAs on mechs , a genesis style RDTA like the wasp RDTA should be better suited for your application
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Spyro
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Hey @Scissorhands thanks for the reply!
Running a relatively cheap Chinese Stabwood squonk box. The 510 is of adequate quality (IMO).
Still though, I don't understand why it's not ideal? It's a single coil so battery life should be better than a dual? Strangely and I do mean STRANGELY, I find that I can chain vape 6-8 hits on the engine with out dry hits. So that's no issue for me. With a single battery device 3 battery changes a day is relatively normal for me. But I'm yet to try the mech mod so maybe it'll be different?
Side note: Hadaly on the way. But for my application I'd rather ditch the mech than the RTA.
Ooooh
Running a relatively cheap Chinese Stabwood squonk box. The 510 is of adequate quality (IMO).
Still though, I don't understand why it's not ideal? It's a single coil so battery life should be better than a dual? Strangely and I do mean STRANGELY, I find that I can chain vape 6-8 hits on the engine with out dry hits. So that's no issue for me. With a single battery device 3 battery changes a day is relatively normal for me. But I'm yet to try the mech mod so maybe it'll be different?
Side note: Hadaly on the way. But for my application I'd rather ditch the mech than the RTA.
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I need help and guidance. I want to use the merlin mini rta on my tube mech mod. What would i have to take into consideration when i coil and wick the rta and when i setup the tube?
No battery installed. Only for purpose of the photo.
Any help and “uitkak” would be taken like a man as i a just curious if it will work.
No battery installed. Only for purpose of the photo.
Any help and “uitkak” would be taken like a man as i a just curious if it will work.
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I cannot see why it would not work, providing you build a suitable coil for the battery and the centre pin on the tank 510 sticks out enough not to short on the mech.
Agreed, as long as you have a protruding 510 pin then all should be good.
What i like to do when building like this for a mech, is after you have your coil installed. Dry burn it with the whole rta assembled on a reg mod to make sure there are no shorts against the chimney or what not
What i like to do when building like this for a mech, is after you have your coil installed. Dry burn it with the whole rta assembled on a reg mod to make sure there are no shorts against the chimney or what not
Hey guys. Haven't received my setup yet, but just working things out using the Sony VTC4 batts with a 0.3ohms coil from http://www.steam-engine.org/
If I'm not mistaken I could build at 0.2ohms using this battery, which would come out at 21A (well within the Amp limit of 30A) but for now I'd like to keep it at 0.3ohms. Now, it says that with the above settings, it will give me around 7 hours of battery life. I'd like to say 5 hours (just to be safe) and then change the battery. Will this be acceptable to do? Do I need to check the battery volts every now and again during those 5 hours, or can I safely vape for that amount of time before changing out the battery?
If I'm not mistaken I could build at 0.2ohms using this battery, which would come out at 21A (well within the Amp limit of 30A) but for now I'd like to keep it at 0.3ohms. Now, it says that with the above settings, it will give me around 7 hours of battery life. I'd like to say 5 hours (just to be safe) and then change the battery. Will this be acceptable to do? Do I need to check the battery volts every now and again during those 5 hours, or can I safely vape for that amount of time before changing out the battery?
To make sure I'm always safe I never build below a 20% Amp Headroom (shown under "Amp Limit" there).
You don't need to check the voltage all the time. By the time your battery gets to around 3.7 your vape will become so weak it will be very noticeable. I usually start noticing the need for a fresh battery around 3.9V. As long as you don't keep on trying to vape it when it's weak you'll be fine.
Definitely start off at 0.3 Ohms and work your way down if needed. You might just find that you like the vape at 0.3 more then lower.
I would not take the hour life to heart on steam engine, there are way to many factors ie. heat generated in the battery its self. With a Mech at 0.2 to 0.3 Ohms you will notice the drop in power as the battery sags, its clear as day. As soon as you notice the sag, swap out batteries with a fresh one and measure the one you pulled out. This will help for down the road as you can then through experience gestamate the V through the vape experience.
I use VTC4’s in all my tubes and run a 0.2 coil, love the vape experience i get form it and have no need to lower the ohms. Saying that, i walk around with three spare batteries as they do not last.
If something were to go terribly wrong with the electronics I suppose it could happen, but essentially the answer is no you don't need to worry about that.
I have read somewhere not to take a freshly charged battery and throw it into a mech, and you should rather leave it standing for a few minutes first. Not sure as to the accuracy on that, but once I read it I can't un-read it and follow that practice.
Theory should be that in case of over charge, leaving the battery for a while will give it time to naturally lose some of its charge dropping it down to safe levels ... how much it will lose in that time I actually have no idea, guess it's one of those tap a coke can on the top with your nail before opening it things
Thank you @Stosta
Yes, I read the same thing. I first saw it in the "Scared to use my mech mod" thread and it definitely stuck with me as well. I believe Maxxis posted about letting the battery sit for 10 - 15mins before using it - https://www.ecigssa.co.za/scared-to-use-my-mech-mod.t34559/#post-502409
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/scared-to-use-my-mech-mod.t34559/#post-502409
That's the one!!Thank you @Stosta
Yes, I read the same thing. I first saw it in the "Scared to use my mech mod" thread and it definitely stuck with me as well. I believe Maxxis posted about letting the battery sit for 10 - 15mins before using it - https://www.ecigssa.co.za/scared-to-use-my-mech-mod.t34559/#post-502409
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Hi guys. Just some clarification here. A freshly charged battery has residual heat left over in its core from the charging process. Heat increases the electrical resistance of materials and the last thing you want in any mod, mech or reg is a high internal resistance of your battery. If the battery is hot and you drain it straight away it will get hotter and increase the resistance even further and so on. Leave your batts to cool down a bit before using them.
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Never trust the "time limit" of a battery. These are man made things and are never the same unit for unit. No need to test the battery as Silver and Andre said you wont get any vape from the "normal" mech builds at the 2.5V kill switch voltage. In fact you more than likely will want to swap out at the cell at the 3.4V range as at that point it will feel very airy and weak.
Thank you for your replies here @GerharddP
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No worries mate. If you need help just give a shout and will help asap.
Just to illustrate the effect of voltage drop as a battery discharges.
Please calculate the amp draw of your build and do not rely on my calculations above, they only serve as a guide.
Regards
Please calculate the amp draw of your build and do not rely on my calculations above, they only serve as a guide.
Regards
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