Thanks for this!
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- Thread starter Scissorhands
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There is no need to let your batteries cool off after a fresh full charge imo. That was mayby the case back in the day where you did not have smart chargers. Same goes with your phone, they always say dont leave your phone in the charger over night. Have you had a phone explode in your face for leaving it on charge over night for 6-7 hours ? i dont think so.
im not saying leave your batteries in over night, all im saying is that the chargers out there today are much better. And you sure as hell dont need to leave your batteries to "cool" off after a fresh charge before you can use them, that is the most ridiculous things ive heard lol. except if the batteries is getting hot during a charge, that is the faulty charger then or faulty cell. not overcharging.
The most important thing is to not leave it unnatended, etc let it charge in your house while your away. something stupid like that. The same reason you wont leave an heating applience etc on unnatended, most likely it will be ok. But anything can happen.
im not saying leave your batteries in over night, all im saying is that the chargers out there today are much better. And you sure as hell dont need to leave your batteries to "cool" off after a fresh charge before you can use them, that is the most ridiculous things ive heard lol. except if the batteries is getting hot during a charge, that is the faulty charger then or faulty cell. not overcharging.
The most important thing is to not leave it unnatended, etc let it charge in your house while your away. something stupid like that. The same reason you wont leave an heating applience etc on unnatended, most likely it will be ok. But anything can happen.
Agreed, even when running a 0.15 build on a mech. anything below 3.6/7v is unvapable for my taste.
I always have 2 batts in rotation, when mine hits below nominal voltage i swap it out and uses a fresh one.
When i remove the battery they are 57% drained each time.
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Well have a read on this website : http://www.electronicdesign.com/boa...ng-li-ion-battery-charge-and-discharge-cycles
If you need more evidence ill post pics of temperature readings taken from cells while at rest and actively charging as well?
The point of the post was to assist a fellow vaper and to prevent a possible incident. There will ALWAYS be heat generated while electrochemical processes are happening regardless of "chargers out there today are much better" they still induce electron flow which WILL produce heat in any conductive element unless it is a superconductor.
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I apologise and withdraw my statement, i can see by your extraordinary google skills and the use of capital letters that you mean business. Keep on giving sound advise brother !
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Will do thanks mate.
By the way you forgot, its not just "google skills" its the 10+ years of working experience in the field of industrial electronics and heavy current electrical engineering.
Glad that someone with your knowledge is part of the community here, thanks for the info in this thread it's appreciated!
Just read about vapesafe fuse for mech mods. Found a old thread about this too. I am not a mech user but was just curious to ask if anyone uses this ?
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/how-to-insert-vapesafe-fuse-from-vapemob.t3629/
https://www.ecigssa.co.za/how-to-insert-vapesafe-fuse-from-vapemob.t3629/
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Spyro
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So I've been around the block and back with mech squonkers and they are not for me. Messy and I find they drain the battery very quickly and really don't give me a consistent vape.
Just picked up my first hybrid tube and I'm very clued up with regards to safety now days.
I watched a video of mooch where he said chances are 99-100% of mechs blow up due to user error and usually a battery short of sorts. He said that although he doesn't condone it at all, a 0.02ohm build probably wouldn't be the cause of a detonation.
So I'm currently rocking Samsung 30s in my hybrid and building at 0.15ohms.
That's around a 28amp draw on full charge according to the vape tools. In reality my regulated mod (firing at the alleged wattage that the mech is firing at due to the same calculations only pulls 24amps on the same settup.
The max discharge rate of these bats are 20 continuous and 25 max pulse rate.
I've been vaping steadily with this 0.15 on 30Qs and although the draw is higher Amp wise I am getting zero "side effects" my batteries get a tiny bit warm if I chain - only for 5-6 drags before I do a 1 minute break while I redrip.
So the battery is slightly warm but by no means at all is it hot. Am I playing with fire over here? Yes I understand that there are safety guidelines in place but I know guys pulling 40A off of 30A batteries.
Am I safe with the slight (allegedly 5-8A) overdraw of my batteries? I'm not chain vaping. And again, no hot batteries.
It's a hybrid but I've covered all the usual safety checks... 510 pin, battery wraps, never leaving the mod in pocket or able to fire alone.
Do we have any serious mech users here that can tell me from actual experience.
Because as it stands I feel like I have no reason to buy safer batteries other than the batteries having a shorter life cycle.
Thanks in advance
S
Just picked up my first hybrid tube and I'm very clued up with regards to safety now days.
I watched a video of mooch where he said chances are 99-100% of mechs blow up due to user error and usually a battery short of sorts. He said that although he doesn't condone it at all, a 0.02ohm build probably wouldn't be the cause of a detonation.
So I'm currently rocking Samsung 30s in my hybrid and building at 0.15ohms.
That's around a 28amp draw on full charge according to the vape tools. In reality my regulated mod (firing at the alleged wattage that the mech is firing at due to the same calculations only pulls 24amps on the same settup.
The max discharge rate of these bats are 20 continuous and 25 max pulse rate.
I've been vaping steadily with this 0.15 on 30Qs and although the draw is higher Amp wise I am getting zero "side effects" my batteries get a tiny bit warm if I chain - only for 5-6 drags before I do a 1 minute break while I redrip.
So the battery is slightly warm but by no means at all is it hot. Am I playing with fire over here? Yes I understand that there are safety guidelines in place but I know guys pulling 40A off of 30A batteries.
Am I safe with the slight (allegedly 5-8A) overdraw of my batteries? I'm not chain vaping. And again, no hot batteries.
It's a hybrid but I've covered all the usual safety checks... 510 pin, battery wraps, never leaving the mod in pocket or able to fire alone.
Do we have any serious mech users here that can tell me from actual experience.
Because as it stands I feel like I have no reason to buy safer batteries other than the batteries having a shorter life cycle.
Thanks in advance
S
S
Spyro
Guest
Ps I'm not looking for " better safe than sorry" comments. I'm looking more for: that's way too dangerous stop now, monitor your batteries and you'll be good, actual real live experience. Because at this rate I feel like I'm safe and I have no desire to get new batteries unless totally mandatory. The mod is slightly warm but not hot by any means. Just want to know from actual real experience.
Again I've seen guess rocking 0.07 ohm builds on 25Rs for years without issues.
I don't really chain vape and my atty only allows for a few drags before a redrip
Again I've seen guess rocking 0.07 ohm builds on 25Rs for years without issues.
I don't really chain vape and my atty only allows for a few drags before a redrip
My personal opinion is use 25R and you will be fine. With 30Q i would say build up to about 0.2 and you should find your batteries will be cooler.
Also try stick to pulsing so short bursts of 2 to 3 second drags.
I dont want to say too much as after all we here to look out for one another and prevent as much as possible accidents from happening.
Just my lil disclaimer i usually leave so one day no one points fingers and says but clouds4days said it was fine.
@Spyro please also note the above stament are my personal views as stated above and by no means am i promoting my above statment but merely stating how i chose to vape on my tube mechs.
Battery safety should always come first and sticking to the manufacturer battery specs is the safest way to vape.
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Yo bud, I came to the conclusion that I COULD vape "on the fence" but the overall experience wasn't as satisfying as a well "tuned" set up
When I got into mechs @GerritVisagie told me not to skimp on high amp batteries, 110% true
This is my view and welcome anyone to correct me
A higher amp limit yields a lower "total circuit resistance" = less sag/harder hit (your cell's internal resistance and contact's resistance will effectively add to you coils resistance)
I hope that makes sense? I was pleasantly surprised when I switched from 18A 3000mah 18650 + aluminium to 30A 3000mah 20700 + silver
chain vape on a 0.2 , I feel no warmth on my cell
So, I have no motive to vape on the fence, rather fine tune
Peace
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Hey man, the discharge rate of 30's are 15 amps, not 20 amps.
Rather use 25r's much better internal ressitares imo. Just keep it mind when things ate heating up, rather let it cool down.
I have no problem using 25r's with 0.13 builds. After voltage drop and battery drain after the first hit, not much amps getting pulled.
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Spyro
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@Silver @Hallucinated_ @Scissorhands @Clouds4Days
Thank you very much guys. I really appreciate all the detailed feedback!
Battery sag is one particular topic that I haven't done complete research in.
I only vape this thing at home or while in a relaxed sitting environment.
I never ever put any mod in my pocket under any circumstances.
Based on all of the lovely information you have supplied I'm going to continue using it as is until I get pass a shop to pick up some higher drain batteries.
My drags are never more than 2 seconds. 3 would be pushing it and I most certainly do not chain vape at these wattages. The vapour production provides no need to do so.
As stated before - the batteries never get much warmer than they do after being freshly pulled from the charger.
I'll pick up some 25Rs.
Thank you all very much again. I really can't explain how much your information means to me. It was all very informative and not the usual "you have to dumb****, because I say so" type info that I would have been given at the local BnM.
Much appreciated guys!
Thank you very much guys. I really appreciate all the detailed feedback!
Battery sag is one particular topic that I haven't done complete research in.
I only vape this thing at home or while in a relaxed sitting environment.
I never ever put any mod in my pocket under any circumstances.
Based on all of the lovely information you have supplied I'm going to continue using it as is until I get pass a shop to pick up some higher drain batteries.
My drags are never more than 2 seconds. 3 would be pushing it and I most certainly do not chain vape at these wattages. The vapour production provides no need to do so.
As stated before - the batteries never get much warmer than they do after being freshly pulled from the charger.
I'll pick up some 25Rs.
Thank you all very much again. I really can't explain how much your information means to me. It was all very informative and not the usual "you have to dumb****, because I say so" type info that I would have been given at the local BnM.
Much appreciated guys!
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Hi guys and girls
I'm new to the site so please have a bit of patiences with me
Okay so I was reading what @Spyro said about his batts, he uses 30q's and like he said he has been using 25r's on a 0.07 build.
What I would like to know isn't using vtc4's just the best option for a mech because I mean the batts were made for mechs?
Personally I only use vtc4's because I get great hits off them and I know I can do a very low build on them and be safe (obviously making sure that my battery wraps are in great condition and doing any other safety precautions), I use to have a 0.1 build on my noisy v1 with a OG goon 22.
I'm honeslty not too clued up on my ohms law but at the same time I do know how to sort of do it if that makes sense , I sort of know how to build and stay were I am safe in regards to battery amps.
Another question of mine is what is the lowest I can build on a Ijoy 20700 for a broadside?, and I have a fused alien build in already which is reading at 0.1 ohms is that safe or should I just keep using my vtc4 for that?
I'm new to the site so please have a bit of patiences with me
Okay so I was reading what @Spyro said about his batts, he uses 30q's and like he said he has been using 25r's on a 0.07 build.
What I would like to know isn't using vtc4's just the best option for a mech because I mean the batts were made for mechs?
Personally I only use vtc4's because I get great hits off them and I know I can do a very low build on them and be safe (obviously making sure that my battery wraps are in great condition and doing any other safety precautions), I use to have a 0.1 build on my noisy v1 with a OG goon 22.
I'm honeslty not too clued up on my ohms law but at the same time I do know how to sort of do it if that makes sense , I sort of know how to build and stay were I am safe in regards to battery amps.
Another question of mine is what is the lowest I can build on a Ijoy 20700 for a broadside?, and I have a fused alien build in already which is reading at 0.1 ohms is that safe or should I just keep using my vtc4 for that?
It was nice knowing you @Spyro, hope you get well soon.
Sarcasm aside, by the time a cell feels hot to the touch externally the insides are boiling already, so battery temperature as a means of determining safety levels is a bit risky.
Pulse ratings are also not a good indicator of limits. It usually means you can draw the stated amps for a split second only, not the time we pulse while vaping, these time frames are seen as continuous discharges.
The above was taken from Mooch's videos.
When we have VTC5A and H2's (and probably a whole bunch more) readily available, I see no need to run the risks you are doing.
The need to build that low is also questionable. But that is subjective and depends on personal preference, I would only advise you try some less bulky builds at higher ohms as well and see if your happy place may not in fact be there as well. We aim to heat juice, not metal, after all.
Regards
S
Spyro
Guest
Hey dude. I have been vaping 1.5ohm on 30Qs. I have only heard and seen people - usually the blokes behind the counter at BnM stores building low 0.08-0.07 on 25R batteries and vtc4s. I usually vaped at 0.3-0.4 on single coil squonkers. This is my first tube mech.
@Raindance thanks for the input friend. I as stated above those are my perameters. 0.15 with dual coil twisted Ka1 x4 wraps. A tiny little build.
As mentioned in my first post the batteries do get warm but nowhere near hot enough to not be able to hold. That's ludicrous and I would never let it get to that.
However, heeding all warnings I will pick some new batts up soonest.
Thanks for the guidance
I remember visiting a BnM and the store clerk wouldn't let me touch his Tesla bitturbo mech as he was running 0.07 ohms on a series? Perhaps parallel build. Said he understands the risks but wouldn't let me try it - while he happily puffed on my engine.
Another time I spoke to a different BnM clerk who told me that he runs 0.08 regularly as his go to on his tube. I can only assume he was using the correct batteries. So I know for a fact there are plenty of people pushing the limits. I just wanted to check that my limit pushing wasn't all too dangerous.
Just thought I could leave this here: (Remember not to just trust my figures, do your own calculations to verify.)Hey dude. I have been vaping 1.5ohm on 30Qs. I have only heard and seen people - usually the blokes behind the counter at BnM stores building low 0.08-0.07 on 25R batteries and vtc4s. I usually vaped at 0.3-0.4 on single coil squonkers. This is my first tube mech.
@Raindance thanks for the input friend. I as stated above those are my perameters. 0.15 with dual coil twisted Ka1 x4 wraps. A tiny little build.
As mentioned in my first post the batteries do get warm but nowhere near hot enough to not be able to hold. That's ludicrous and I would never let it get to that.
However, heeding all warnings I will pick some new batts up soonest.
Thanks for the guidance
I remember visiting a BnM and the store clerk wouldn't let me touch his Tesla bitturbo mech as he was running 0.07 ohms on a series? Perhaps parallel build. Said he understands the risks but wouldn't let me try it - while he happily puffed on my engine.
Another time I spoke to a different BnM clerk who told me that he runs 0.08 regularly as his go to on his tube. I can only assume he was using the correct batteries. So I know for a fact there are plenty of people pushing the limits. I just wanted to check that my limit pushing wasn't all too dangerous.
0.07 Ohm mech builds do seem a bit scary in all respects and I can not imagine why one would want to dabble in this territory, but then again...
As for a point to ponder, using TC wire like SS will result in an initial high amp draw but as the coil heats up, the Ohm's will increase thereby dropping the Amp draw. Something worth considering the full implications of. On big metal volume builds most energy is used to heat up the coil but once hot does one need all that energy to heat juice? There may be some advantages in this theory of using SS if it holds up in real world use where once the coil is hot less energy is needed to heat juice only.
Regards
Hey dude. I have been vaping 1.5ohm on 30Qs. I have only heard and seen people - usually the blokes behind the counter at BnM stores building low 0.08-0.07 on 25R batteries and vtc4s. I usually vaped at 0.3-0.4 on single coil squonkers. This is my first tube mech.
@Raindance thanks for the input friend. I as stated above those are my perameters. 0.15 with dual coil twisted Ka1 x4 wraps. A tiny little build.
As mentioned in my first post the batteries do get warm but nowhere near hot enough to not be able to hold. That's ludicrous and I would never let it get to that.
However, heeding all warnings I will pick some new batts up soonest.
Thanks for the guidance
I remember visiting a BnM and the store clerk wouldn't let me touch his Tesla bitturbo mech as he was running 0.07 ohms on a series? Perhaps parallel build. Said he understands the risks but wouldn't let me try it - while he happily puffed on my engine.
Another time I spoke to a different BnM clerk who told me that he runs 0.08 regularly as his go to on his tube. I can only assume he was using the correct batteries. So I know for a fact there are plenty of people pushing the limits. I just wanted to check that my limit pushing wasn't all too dangerous.
1.5 i could never sir XD I'm use to my low builds love it too bit, I chase those clouds like crazy my batts might not last forever but I can't live without my clouds
I
From my point of view why people would do a 0.07 build is for the ramp up. What I've noticed (living in Cape Town) is that a lot of us loves low builds. Quick ramp up + shorter time of pulling = bigger clouds
I mean look of you have a higher build yes your batts last longer but that's means you have to set your watts higher if regulated. That's why I stick to my unrelated, again that's just my opinion boet. I hope this sort of helps
If I may ask what is SS? I'm not really clued up to wire.
From my point of view why people would do a 0.07 build is for the ramp up. What I've noticed (living in Cape Town) is that a lot of us loves low builds. Quick ramp up + shorter time of pulling = bigger clouds
I mean look of you have a higher build yes your batts last longer but that's means you have to set your watts higher if regulated. That's why I stick to my unrelated, again that's just my opinion boet. I hope this sort of helps
S
Spyro
Guest
^^^ this, see what I mean. Guys build "too low" for even vtc4s yes it's common place here in the Cape anyway. No reports of blow ups from what I can see.
So is over drawing really that much of an issue if you have your safety perameters in check. And you don't chain vape it past a warm battery?
So is over drawing really that much of an issue if you have your safety perameters in check. And you don't chain vape it past a warm battery?
S
Spyro
Guest
Again, mooch said, if you aren't chain vaping the chances of venting are low even on a 0.02ohm build. He doesn't condone those builds but the cause of detonation would be a dead short, not a low build.
Just finding out here. Not justifying low builds.
In fact. I just saw a competition in Cape Town for a new store opening. Which has a mech Ohm limit of minimum 0.1 ohm. Which is way over the Amp draw limit of ANY battery. So what's going on here. I don't understand!!!
Just finding out here. Not justifying low builds.
In fact. I just saw a competition in Cape Town for a new store opening. Which has a mech Ohm limit of minimum 0.1 ohm. Which is way over the Amp draw limit of ANY battery. So what's going on here. I don't understand!!!
Remember that the calculators are worst case scenario, they are not 100% acurate because of the internal resistance of your mechanical device, the voltage drop after a fresh charge aswell as the resistance between your 510 connection on your positive battery terminal. You will be suprised how quickly your battery drops to its nominal voltage after a hit or two 3.7v instead of 4.2v after a fresh charge.
For example,
I have an regulated mod(DNA Chip) and a mechanicle,
One atomizer to test on both, build is 0.12 ohm.
According to the calculator i am pulling 32 amps and pushing 135 watts when i take my first hit on the mech, in fact it feels like i am pushing 60-70 watts when im hitting.
because on my regulated i can set it to 135 watts and i feel what is 135 watts.
I am not saying it is safe to build 0.12 on a mech, just my opinion
Stainless Steel ( SS316, 304 ...) - one of the resistance wire types we use, The others are NI (Ni200) which is pure Nickel The Nichrome (NI80), Kanthal (K) and the rarely heard of Titanium (Ti).I
If I may ask what is SS? I'm not really clued up to wire.
From my point of view why people would do a 0.07 build is for the ramp up. What I've noticed (living in Cape Town) is that a lot of us loves low builds. Quick ramp up + shorter time of pulling = bigger clouds
I mean look of you have a higher build yes your batts last longer but that's means you have to set your watts higher if regulated. That's why I stick to my unrelated, again that's just my opinion boet. I hope this sort of helps
SS, NI and Ti all have a marked increase in resistance as they heat up and are therefore used for Temperature control but can be used otherwise as well.
Ramp up speed is dependent on how much energy needs to be absorbed by the metal in the coil in order for the whole thing to reach a certain temperature. I get incredible ramp up on my 0.6 Ohm SS 28AWG coils because they contain so little metal. Surface area in contact with juice laden wick is however not as much as would be the case of a complex coil, so there is a trade off.
It is a complex issue which one day I hope to do some proper research on but for now I am totally happy with coils that give me more than 50% headroom on my 30Q's.
I apologize if I seem a bit opposed to pushing the envelope in terms of low builds but, guys, I do not want any of you to become part of the statistics related to vaping accidents. Rather play it safe.
Regards
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