Mech queries (advanced)

SO all this talk of low Ohm vaping got me curious.

IMG_0724[1].JPG
2.2 Ohm cold for 80 Watt's at 4.2 Volts pulling 19 Ampere's. Vaping on a battery drained to 4.0 Volt. (2x24 + 32 SS Fused Clapton by Geegvape) Vaping Ice Lollies - Boom by Sanctuary E-Liquid.

For all that is sane and virtuous in this life and the next, who can possibly enjoy this! The vape is hot as hell and although the flavor is certainly there from what I can tell with the piece of my tongue that is still functioning, I taste less due to only having partial use of it.
There is not enough Koolada and Menthol in the world to cool this lot down.

On a serious note, I am a flavor chaser that likes a good cloud as well. I get the same amount of cloud and a heck of a lot better taste from a simple dual 28AWG build as I get from this. And that with a lot less battery strain and risk as well.

Out with that build and back to sanity:

IMG_0725[1].JPG
0.43 Ohms for 41 Watt's at 9.77 Amps. Ramps like crazy and pushing no limits at all.

Regards
 
Raindance said:
SO all this talk of low Ohm vaping got me curious.

View attachment 127568
2.2 Ohm cold for 80 Watt's at 4.2 Volts pulling 19 Ampere's. Vaping on a battery drained to 4.0 Volt. (2x24 + 32 SS Fused Clapton by Geegvape) Vaping Ice Lollies - Boom by Sanctuary E-Liquid.

For all that is sane and virtuous in this life and the next, who can possibly enjoy this! The vape is hot as hell and although the flavor is certainly there from what I can tell with the piece of my tongue that is still functioning, I taste less due to only having partial use of it.
There is not enough Koolada and Menthol in the world to cool this lot down.

On a serious note, I am a flavor chaser that likes a good cloud as well. I get the same amount of cloud and a heck of a lot better taste from a simple dual 28AWG build as I get from this. And that with a lot less battery strain and risk as well.

Out with that build and back to sanity:

View attachment 127570
0.43 Ohms for 41 Watt's at 9.77 Amps. Ramps like crazy and pushing no limits at all.

Regards
Click to expand...
You need some proper coils mate, chinese mass produced coils in a mech is not what i would call a good vape.
 
  • "...Thanks to Geekvape for bringing awesome coils to the market..." DJLsp Vapes
  • ""...provide some of the best premade coils out there in the market..." Rip Trippers
  • "...every coil is pristine and perfect..." Suck My Mod
  • "...these are good coils. I really really like them..." Heathen
  • "...no brainer...awesome..." Mike Vapes
Views on Chinese coils by the top YouTube reviewers
 
15224869351491476291657.jpg

0.1ohm coil

On my mech it's a little disappointing, I have to close an airhole. On my regulated I can open up the airflow and crank it to 120W and it's fanflippentastic.

So I can definitely see why people build lower because as you can see with the chart that was kindly posted above, power output goes up exponentially with each 0.01 ohm you drop with your build.

I am currently still running my Samsung 30Q with absolutely no overheating at all. Pulsing at 1-2 seconds.

But don't worry, I'm literally on my way to fetch some VTC4s as I type. Misses just making me some coffee before the drive. :)
 
CeeJay said:


It's quite long and not in HD but a cool real world experiment. On the copper vs brass and SS mod material. Does volt drop and power readings.
Click to expand...




It's quite long and not I'm not sober enough to catch the jist. but basically in this real world experiment. Do the copper vs brass and SS mod material make that much difference to volt drop and power readings....
but he's basically showing that the resistance of mechs /voltage drop is negligible with regards to what type of metal your mod is made from. All other variables remaining equal.

Or have I missed the point entirely.

Because I hear a lot of silver is better for hard hitting / brass is better, etc etc.

Did he just basically say it makes minimal difference?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Spyro said:
It's quite long and not I'm not sober enough to catch the jist. but basically in this real world experiment. Do the copper vs brass and SS mod material make that much difference to volt drop and power readings....
Tad bit too intoxicated for this right now, but he's basically showing that the resistance of mechs /voltage drop is negligible with regards to what type of metal your mod is made from. Ceterus paribus (all other variables remaining equally)

Or have I missed the point entirely.

Because I hear a lot of silver is better for hard hitting / brass is better, etc etc.

Did he just basically say it makes minimal difference?
Click to expand...
If your mod uses its "body" as conductor (not a couple of plates inside a plastic body) the cross section of the resulting conductor is so large that the materials resistance becomes negligible.

Regards
 
Got it bro, thanks. This is great news.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi guys and girls

So I have a very big problem, at the moment my simplicity isn't in working order because my L shape mechanism broke. It's a solid silver contact and it broke at the middle point of the L. It's costs way to much to import new solid silver contact (I basically buy a brand new simplicity with that money ) so what I want to know is how can I fix it ??
Can I get it silver welded?? Because that shouldn't case anything to go wrong or am I wrong??
 
Tarquinj said:
Hi guys and girls

So I have a very big problem, at the moment my simplicity isn't in working order because my L shape mechanism broke. It's a solid silver contact and it broke at the middle point of the L. It's costs way to much to import new solid silver contact (I basically buy a brand new simplicity with that money ) so what I want to know is how can I fix it ??
Can I get it silver welded?? Because that shouldn't case anything to go wrong or am I wrong??
Click to expand...
Any manufacturing jeweller should be able to "weld" it for you.
 
Any advice on wismecs rx machina or should I look at something else. Im not going out to get one tomorrow, but before year end and advice and ideas could help please

Sent from my X30 using Tapatalk
 
A couple of questions for the mech fundis:

What's the best way to clean up these black marks on the 510? I've tried using acetone, and an eraser and it produces temporary relief. Also the firing button gets worryingly hot quite quickly.
IMG_20180625_194734_282.jpg

Is this caused by arcing? What do I use to prevent it from happening?
TIA.
 
Huffapuff said:
A couple of questions for the mech fundis:

What's the best way to clean up these black marks on the 510? I've tried using acetone, and an eraser and it produces temporary relief. Also the firing button gets worryingly hot quite quickly.
View attachment 136608

Is this caused by arcing? What do I use to prevent it from happening?
TIA.
Click to expand...

Hi @Huffapuff
For the Reos, to prevent arcing, we use Noalox or dielectric grease
@Alex, what was the name of that dielectric grease you got for me? Was it Fuchs?
 
Huffapuff said:
A couple of questions for the mech fundis:

What's the best way to clean up these black marks on the 510? I've tried using acetone, and an eraser and it produces temporary relief. Also the firing button gets worryingly hot quite quickly.
View attachment 136608

Is this caused by arcing? What do I use to prevent it from happening?
TIA.
Click to expand...
After cleaning put some Maelox (Spelling?) or similar electrical contact lubricant on there. Seals the contact points from air and thus prevents oxidation.

The heating issue can indicate a too small contact area as well. Try to ensure as much of the strike plate touches the 510 contact point as possible.

Hope this helps.

Regards
 
Huffapuff said:
A couple of questions for the mech fundis:

What's the best way to clean up these black marks on the 510? I've tried using acetone, and an eraser and it produces temporary relief. Also the firing button gets worryingly hot quite quickly.
View attachment 136608

Is this caused by arcing? What do I use to prevent it from happening?
TIA.
Click to expand...

Its caused by arcing yes. For a fraction of a second those arcs can reach the temperature of the surface of the sun.

That looks like silver wether solid or plated the result is the same. The color comes from carbon and silver oxide which is black in color. Like @Silver said the best thing to do is electrical grease to prevent it from happening as quickly.

In the industry we use specialized electrical cleaners to remove arc deposits. What I would do if I were you is to use a micro fibre cloth with some micron polishing compound and get at it.

The heat build up is more than likely caused by insufficient contact area and the increased resistance of the arc damage.
 
Thanks so much guys, really appreciate the input. Will have to get myself sorted tomorrow.
 
GerharddP said:
The heat build up is more than likely caused by insufficient contact area and the increased resistance of the arc damage.
Click to expand...
Yeah, the contact point is small. I'm not very impressed with the Furyan's button. But I'm keen to find a solution.
 
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