Nickel Builds

[Yiannaki]

Hey all

So I thought it would be a good idea to start sharing our nickle builds to see what everyone is using and to learn a few things along the way.

A good tip to wrap a nicely spaced coil is to parallel wrap it and then to remove one of the coils you have just wrapped. That way you will be left with an evenly spaced coil.

My current build

Single coil
28g Nickel
3mm ID
9 wraps
0.16 ohms

I first parallel wrapped my nickel with some 24g (I used this wire as I don't use 24g much anymore so I was prepared to it)

As you'll see in the pic below, the first wrap looked a bit dodgy. So make an extra one you can pull off

With the second coil removed and the end wrap straightened out, I pushed the coil up against the back of the screwdriver to bring the wraps closer together. This was the result:

Next I installed the coil carefully onto the subtank mini rba base. Here I tried to wrap a little around the back of the screw on the base to get a better connection.

Instead of clipping the excess, I turned the wire in a circular motion so it could snap off.

If you notice your coil moving around while doing this then you need to better secure the wire. If it's moving the coil around, you're not going to get a good connection. For temp control to work effectively you have to have a good connection.

I wicked the coil as I normally would wick my subtank but I used a little more caution as to not mess up my coil. Nickel is very soft and easily deformed.

I seem to have found my sweet spot with this build at 460F at 22w.

I think the flavour is great, vapour production is decent and temp control seems to be working fine

I hope this was helpful. Looking forward to seeing what builds everyone else is running on their temp control devices.

 

[Rob Fisher]

Thanks for that @Yiannaki! I took special note because my Yihi is on it's way as we speak!

Question: I'm happy at the 1Ω to 1,2Ω mark on my Cyclones on the REO... I assume I can control the vape with the electronics and temperature sensing capabilities so a coil like you just made should also work for me?

 

[Yiannaki]

Thanks for that @Yiannaki! I took special note because my Yihi is on it's way as we speak!

Question: I'm happy at the 1Ω to 1,2Ω mark on my Cyclones on the REO... I assume I can control the vape with the electronics and temperature sensing capabilities so a coil like you just made should also work for me?

A pleasure Rob

Yes I think it should work perfectly. Even though the resistance is stupidly low, it doesn't behave like a super low resistance kanthal build.

This build is mellow and relaxed. I think it would be perfectly fine. You could also try a smaller ID 2.5mm if you like but will have to add an extra wrap or two.

I ran a build as above in a doge RDA when @Paulie had given me his shark on loan and also thoroughly enjoyed it.

 

[Mario]

Great Job Bro!!
Love the pics n build ,will be getting my nickel and other goodies soon from @KieranD and will be following your steps

My build will follow soon

Thanks!!

 

[Yiannaki]

Great Job Bro!!
Love the pics n build ,will be getting my nickel and other goodies soon from @KieranD and will be following your steps

My build will follow soon

Thanks!!

Thanks bud

Awesome stuff. Looking forward to seeing your build and hearing your thoughts.

Don't forget to use the Atty lock feature on the new shark to lock in your initial resistance.

 

[Rob Fisher]

A pleasure Rob

Yes I think it should work perfectly. Even though the resistance is stupidly low, it doesn't behave like a super low resistance kanthal build.

This build is mellow and relaxed. I think it would be perfectly fine. You could also try a smaller ID 2.5mm if you like but will have to add an extra wrap or two.

I ran a build as above in a doge RDA when @Paulie had given me his shark on loan and also thoroughly enjoyed it.

Thanks John! Wow I so battle to call you John... Thanks @Yiannaki! Ahhh that feels better!

 

[Richard]

I try build mine to 0.16 as well (also my sweetspot) and I run my kanthal builds at +- 1.0 ohm. I find that if I set my watts to the same as what i set for my kanthal and there is very little (if any) difference in vape quality. However I do find the temp limiting provides a more constant vape experience.

 

[Yiannaki]

Another one to look at @Rob Fisher

Tried to wrap without using the parallel method.

Doge V2
Single Coil
28g Nickel
2.5 ID
11 wraps
0.14 ohms
Rayon Wick

Running this one at 500f and 26 watts.

 

[GadgetFreak]

Thanks bud

Awesome stuff. Looking forward to seeing your build and hearing your thoughts.

Don't forget to use the Atty lock feature on the new shark to lock in your initial resistance.

@Yiannaki thanks for taking the time to show us your build.

When you say "lock initial resistance" i am just wondering why? Yes i do notice the resistance change now an then but would the resistance not change when the coil heats and cool off? Sorry I am waffling but nickel has me confused.

 

[Yiannaki]

@Yiannaki thanks for taking the time to show us your build.

When you say "lock initial resistance" i am just wondering why? Yes i do notice the resistance change now an then but would the resistance not change when the coil heats and cool off? Sorry I am waffling but nickel has me confused.

If you're using a tank for example and you remove the tank to refill, and its standing temperature changes, the board will not re-read the resistance if Atty lock is on.

If you were to leave Atty lock off when removing and putting the tank back on after filling, the board could re read the resistance differently.

If the tank has warmed up, the board will have an incorrect base reading for it and then the temp control will not be accurate.

Does that make any sense? Lol. Trying to find the correct way to explain it easily.

 

[GadgetFreak]

If you're using a tank for example and you remove the tank to refill, and its standing temperature changes, the board will not re-read the resistance if Atty lock is on.

If you were to leave Atty lock off when removing and putting the tank back on after filling, the board could re read the resistance differently.

If the tank has warmed up, the board will have an incorrect base reading for it and then the temp control will not be accurate.

Does that make any sense? Lol. Trying to find the correct way to explain it easily.

Okay @Yiannaki I think I got this. Initial resistance is our correct resistance, so lock it or else every time the temp changes around the coil the chip is going to try and fire at a different wattage?

 

[Kaizer]

Im not sure if there is a thread already for Nickel wire builds on RTA's - if so, please move this.

I made my first Nickel build on the Lemo last night and Im not sure if it is done correctly.


10 wraps with a 2.5mm ID. It worked out to 0.26 Ohms. Is this resistance too high? I see in YouTube videos that their builds sit at around 0.1ish. Is this temperature sensing feature better suited for resistances lower than 0.2? Would love to get your input please.

 

[Andre]

Here is the thread to be moved to mods/admins: http://www.ecigssa.co.za/nickel-builds.t10558/
Sorry, no advice from me @Kaizer - above my pay grade at this stage.

 

[Kaizer]

Thanks @Andre . I will go through that thread. Maybe the answers are there already.

 

[free3dom]

@Paulie please advise

 

[Paulie]

Im not sure if there is a thread already for Nickel wire builds on RTA's - if so, please move this.

I made my first Nickel build on the Lemo last night and Im not sure if it is done correctly.

View attachment 25334
10 wraps with a 2.5mm ID. It worked out to 0.26 Ohms. Is this resistance too high? I see in YouTube videos that their builds sit at around 0.1ish. Is this temperature sensing feature better suited for resistances lower than 0.2? Would love to get your input please.

Hi Kaizer,
From My understanding it depends on the device that you have but since nickel NI 200 has such a low resistance (even though they say it 0 resistance) Its important to get it to 0.1 -0.2 range. The higher means more wrapps and therefore most people battle with the space in the atty. From what i see you have built a great coil and it should work but i think it would be better the closer you get it to the 0.1 recommend build resistance.

 

[Yiannaki]

I have merged your thread into the Nickle builds thread @Kaizer

In regard to your question regarding resistance of your build. The resistance seems a little high if you're using 28G Nickle

I built a similar coil on my doge, and it came out to 0.14. My advice would be to :

- Check your leads are making proper contact with your posts.
- Leave the tank/atty off of your Rdna40 in a room with a normal temperature. I.E not too warm or col.
- Put the atty back on the device and select + (new coil)

PS with regard to ideal nickle resistance, i think it would be between 0.2 and 0.1. I have done some reading on ecf and some seem to enjoy it above 0.2.

Hope this helps man

Just shout if you have any more questions

 

[Kaizer]

I have another question. Is it normal for the resistance to jump around when firing the device? Im using the Vapor Shark version 5. Before pressing the fire button, the resistance stands at 0.27. While pressing the fire button, the resistance goes up to 0.34 ohms and moves around. On the next fire, it starts again at 0.27 and goes up. Is this normal, or is my wire not connecting properly in there?

 

[Yiannaki]

I have another question. Is it normal for the resistance to jump around when firing the device? Im using the Vapor Shark version 5. Before pressing the fire button, the resistance stands at 0.27. While pressing the fire button, the resistance goes up to 0.34 ohms and moves around. On the next fire, it starts again at 0.27 and goes up. Is this normal, or is my wire not connecting properly in there?

I know Rip Trippers mentioned that nickle builds have a rest reading resistance and then when firing, the resistance will change when the coil heats up.

I was running nickle in the V4 Shark i borrowed from @Paulie and not once did i notice this happening. I would fire the device and just look at the screen, waiting for the resistance to change but it never did.

Even on my v5 shark, i have tested this and again there was no change in the coil resistance.

I would recommend rebuilding your coil and starting from scratch.

Judging by your pic, you're using a lemo. Try this coil from Rip Trippers

 

[Paulie]

I have another question. Is it normal for the resistance to jump around when firing the device? Im using the Vapor Shark version 5. Before pressing the fire button, the resistance stands at 0.27. While pressing the fire button, the resistance goes up to 0.34 ohms and moves around. On the next fire, it starts again at 0.27 and goes up. Is this normal, or is my wire not connecting properly in there?

Yeah from my experience if it keeps jumping around it could be down to bad contact or spacing of the coil. Especially when you add the wick to it as it could mess it up! Make sure you give the coil a good torch before so it can keep some of the structure in place.

 

[Rob Fisher]

I've got so many new tanks and bottles of juice to play with but my throat is really stuffed with this flu and I cough with anything other than Tropical Ice and I pretty much can't taste diddly!



But after watching a few reviews of the SX Mini and Lemo 2 builds I thought I would try another build and this time my coil came out at 0,09Ω. Wicked it up, registered the coil and juiced the tank... first vape needed something more so I upped the Joules to 20J and the temp up to to 380F... cloud production is awesome... airflow of the Lemo 2 is really crap and a massive disappointment!



Unfortunately I can't comment on taste at all till the throat is better! Very frustrating! Because I have these juices to test and they could all be ADV's!

 

[Mario]

Hey all

So I thought it would be a good idea to start sharing our nickle builds to see what everyone is using and to learn a few things along the way.

A good tip to wrap a nicely spaced coil is to parallel wrap it and then to remove one of the coils you have just wrapped. That way you will be left with an evenly spaced coil.

My current build

Single coil
28g Nickel
3mm ID
9 wraps
0.16 ohms

I first parallel wrapped my nickel with some 24g (I used this wire as I don't use 24g much anymore so I was prepared to it)

As you'll see in the pic below, the first wrap looked a bit dodgy. So make an extra one you can pull off

With the second coil removed and the end wrap straightened out, I pushed the coil up against the back of the screwdriver to bring the wraps closer together. This was the result:

Next I installed the coil carefully onto the subtank mini rba base. Here I tried to wrap a little around the back of the screw on the base to get a better connection.

Instead of clipping the excess, I turned the wire in a circular motion so it could snap off.

If you notice your coil moving around while doing this then you need to better secure the wire. If it's moving the coil around, you're not going to get a good connection. For temp control to work effectively you have to have a good connection.

I wicked the coil as I normally would wick my subtank but I used a little more caution as to not mess up my coil. Nickel is very soft and easily deformed.

I seem to have found my sweet spot with this build at 460F at 22w.

I think the flavour is great, vapour production is decent and temp control seems to be working fine

I hope this was helpful. Looking forward to seeing what builds everyone else is running on their temp control devices.

weldone!! @Rob Fisher and @Yiannaki @Kaizer
thank for sharing this as my nickel will be arrive Wednesday.
Will be sending my build soonest

 

[zadiac]

Hey all

A good tip to wrap a nicely spaced coil is to parallel wrap it and then to remove one of the coils you have just wrapped. That way you will be left with an evenly spaced coil.

Another tip is to wrap a single strand as uneven as you like and after that just push the whole coil against the back of the screwdriver. It will even out the spaces very nicely

 

[Jakey]

Difference between ni200 and pure nickel?

 

[johan]

Difference between ni200 and pure nickel?

Answer: the spelling

Ni 200 is a 99.6% pure wrought nickel alloy. Sold under the brand names Nickel Alloy Ni-200, Commercially Pure Nickel, and Low Alloy Nickel. I don't think you get 100% pure nickel wire, but I might be wrong.

Ni 200 is made almost exclusively from nickel (at least 99%), it also contains trace amounts of other chemical elements including:

• Fe .40% max
• Mn .35% max
• Si .35% max
• Cu .25% max
• C .15% max

source: http://continentalsteel.com/nickel-...00-commercially-pure-nickel-low-alloy-nickel/